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So, I got an airbrush for xmas. Just the airbrush. No tanks or compressor or anything. Prices for compressors vary wildly on amazon.

So, what should I be looking for, what PSI is gud, and can I get by on air tanks economically?

Also, what's the best way to practice with it? Start on boxes, or go straight to tanks? How much masking is necessary to get a good camo pattern?

Good*

This is the one I use, For the price it's great.

http://shop.wiltec.info/product_info.php/info/p3951_Airbrush-Mini-Compressor-type-AS18-2.html/XTCsid/808bf42e13ca69b3320af3d492ea68ca

Thank you. Any more suggestions from anyone?
Particularly on the best way of practicing with it.

It's an common question that's been asked on a weekly (if not daily) basis, but your spelling in the title isn't going to help you get answers (not being mean, but you can clearly spell)

With that out the way, I'm happy to wade in with my two cents here.

 Skorpion wrote:

So, what should I be looking for, what PSI is gud, and can I get by on air tanks economically?

If you are serious and thinking about sticking with the hobby then I would recommend a compressor with a tank. I have the AS-196 and I couldn't do without. It is a twin piston, 3.0 litre tank compressor. A tank compressor will be more economic for you, as it doesn't run constantly.

18-20 psi - general purpose
10-15 psi - detail work

 Skorpion wrote:

Also, what's the best way to practice with it? Start on boxes, or go straight to tanks? How much masking is necessary to get a good camo pattern?

Practice, first, by watching the countless "Getting started with an airbrush" videos that you can find on YouTube. I watched as many as I could before I even picked up my first airbrush, let alone bought one. Once you start thinking to yourself, "I can do that" then buy one. Then start practicing for real. Start on old kits, if you can. You can buy something on eBay for cheap. Don't shoot for first cup of paint onto your actual model. Get a feel for it first. Use cardboard and paper too.

Masking a tank for camo all depends on your design of the pattern. Thin, thick etc... Blu-Tac is a great way to mask a vehicle for a camo pattern. If you can, pick up a copy of Model Masterclass by ForgeWorld. They are really helpful.

I've been using a old Badger compressor running into a air pig made from an old freon bottle for many years. It's still going strong today, though to be fair it's had its heaviest use the past 3 years. I'd recommend it, but Badger no longer makes the model anymore.


I'd definitely get a tank and a compressor that can handle at least 30 psi sustained. I do wish I had gotten one of the quieter models, as the one I currently have is very loud. Also make sure you get a water trap. You will need the water trap eventually and it's better to have it than wish you did.


Other than that, practice, practice and the practice some more. Oh and also keep your airbrush clean. It should be so clean it almost looks brand new. If you are having problems painting, it's probably either your paint (isn't thin enough (or is too thin) this occurs ~ 20% of the time), or your airbrush is dirty (occurs ~ 80% of the time). ymmv, but I've seen so many people with airbrushes that "won't work right" that just need to be cleaned properly. And after a proper cleaning they work just great.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6/Tools/1/CompressorsAirTools/Compressors/PRD~0587000P/Mastercraft+2-Gallon+Air+Compressor+with+Accessories.jsp?locale=en

This is what I use. It's not "meant" for airbrushing but I got it on sale before Christmas for $40. Works perfectly for my uses (in the garage, with earplugs).

The downsides :
- Runs constantly
- Runs LOUD (about 90dB which requires ear protection)

Upsides :
- Cheap
- Can use it for small air-tools (pin nailers, blowers, etc).

Rorschach9 wrote:

- Runs LOUD (about 90dB which requires ear protection)

Holy decibels! Your neighbours must love you! Mine would probably love me more if I ran that in my apartment.

This is pretty much the standard for a cheap Airbrush Compressor. The compressor with tank is about double the price. There is very little difference between a generic model and one with a name brand.

 Thamor wrote:
Good*

This is the one I use, For the price it's great.

http://shop.wiltec.info/product_info.php/info/p3951_Airbrush-Mini-Compressor-type-AS18-2.html/XTCsid/808bf42e13ca69b3320af3d492ea68ca

I'm a proponent of Iwata Ninja compressor. Because I am lazy and it does not require maintenance.

I started with a few minutes of practice on the box, and then went onto a tank (though I've been painting with various mediums for years and years, so I'm hardly an average user).

Take it slow, airbrush is a sort of indirect painting tool, so it may take some getting used to (I mean that it paints without you actually touching a surface, unlike a brush).

 Rusty Robot wrote:

Rorschach9 wrote:

- Runs LOUD (about 90dB which requires ear protection)

Holy decibels! Your neighbours must love you! Mine would probably love me more if I ran that in my apartment.

Ha! Thankfully, like I said, I run it in a Garage where I also run numerous power tools (table saws, chop saws, planer, etc) on a regular basis and I ONLY run it during the day (I won't start it up between 9pm and 9am) in consideration of the neighbours.

I would get a nice quiet, proper, airbrush compressor but they just cost too much for how little I end up using it.

latch66 wrote:
I've been using a old Badger compressor running into a air pig made from an old freon bottle for many years. It's still going strong today, though to be fair it's had its heaviest use the past 3 years. I'd recommend it, but Badger no longer makes the model anymore.


I'd definitely get a tank and a compressor that can handle at least 30 psi sustained. I do wish I had gotten one of the quieter models, as the one I currently have is very loud. Also make sure you get a water trap. You will need the water trap eventually and it's better to have it than wish you did.


Other than that, practice, practice and the practice some more. Oh and also keep your airbrush clean. It should be so clean it almost looks brand new. If you are having problems painting, it's probably either your paint (isn't thin enough (or is too thin) this occurs ~ 20% of the time), or your airbrush is dirty (occurs ~ 80% of the time). ymmv, but I've seen so many people with airbrushes that "won't work right" that just need to be cleaned properly. And after a proper cleaning they work just great.

Okay, so how thin do I need to make the paints?

I'd primarily be using citadel paints because that's what I HAVE.

You want the paint to be roughly the consistency of milk for a starting point. You may have to thin more or less depending on what air pressure and airbrush settings you are using.

Citidel paints due to being thick usually need a fair amount of thinner to cut them.

I use Tamiya Acrylic Thinner with a short "squirt" of water exclusively in my acrylic paints. I have used this mix very successfully on the acrylics from Tamiya, GW, P3 and Model Master.

I like using a pipet to transfer the thinner and water to my mixing jar. It's easier to control the amount you put in that way.