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I've used GW's plastic glue for a while, and it had been reliable. However I've gotten two bad bottles in the past year. What happns is about a week after assembly the stuff crystalizes...as if it had been on there 100 years, and things fall off at just a touch.

I'm allergic to super glue, so the plastic glue was nice for my sinuses.

Anyway, since I've lost confidence in GW's line, is there any other plastic glue brand someone recommends or should I just buy a rebreather mask and go super glue.

You really don't need a rebreather for super glue.

Nowadays, I go to the Dollar Store. They sell 3 tubes of Super Glue (in either liquid or gel) for $1. If one dies or gets messed up, I just grab another. This has been great for me because I have a poor track record on larger bottles of zap a gap or hobby glue.

I too suffered through the collapsing model syndrome from using that GW garbage. I have since switched to Revell Contacta Professional glue, and can't overstate how awesome this stuff is.

 Eldarain wrote:
I too suffered through the collapsing model syndrome from using that GW garbage. I have since switched to Revell Contacta Professional glue, and can't overstate how awesome this stuff is.

It is true that everyone raves about it, however, that brand of glue is hard to come in the United States. I would recommend Testors Model Master's Plastic Cement; it works great and is easier to come by in the States.

Gel superglue and Zap-A-Gap are great for metal and resin, but I would recommend against using it on plastic models. Nothing will hold plastic as well as plastic cement.

 ScootyPuffJunior wrote:
It is true that everyone raves about it, however, that brand of glue is hard to come in the United States. I would recommend Testors Model Master's Plastic Cement; it works great and is easier to come by in the States.

Gel superglue and Zap-A-Gap are great for metal and resin, but I would recommend against using it on plastic models. Nothing will hold plastic as well as plastic cement.

You have to be careful with plastic cement that you never want to disassemble that model, however. Personally, I don't use it except for rare circumstances and then only for parts that will never need to be removed (never plastic glue arms, sponsons, turrets, weapons or backpacks, in my opinion).

And I hate when I finish a trade and find out the models were assembled with plastic cement.

Had similar problems with polystyrene cement. After much searching, my recommendation would be the Tamiya plastic cement in a glass bottle. It is much thinner than the tube stuff, so you never blob on too much; it never goes thick and stringy. There is no tube or nozzle to get blocked up, and it has an applicator brush in the lid, so you can paint it on thin and precise. Also unless you're using it like crazy (or leave the lid off), one bottle will last you years.

^ That is STILL polystyrene cement, Smacks.

Revell's stuff, Testor's stuff, Humbrol's stuff ALL come in that form, too.

It's slightly thinner than the Blue bottle stuff as it has a slightly different usage intent.

 chromedog wrote:
^ That is STILL polystyrene cement, Smacks.

I never said that it wasn't, and I'm well aware of what it is. Allow me to rephrase: I have had similar problems with polystyrene cement (particularly out of tubes). This is the one that I like and recommend.

 pretre wrote:
You have to be careful with plastic cement that you never want to disassemble that model, however. Personally, I don't use it except for rare circumstances and then only for parts that will never need to be removed (never plastic glue arms, sponsons, turrets, weapons or backpacks, in my opinion).

And I hate when I finish a trade and find out the models were assembled with plastic cement.

I would rather not have my models break because they got knocked over by accident or dropped, but hey to each his own. As far as removing arms, backpacks, and turrets... that's why we magnetize, problem solved!

Either buy Tamiya plastic cement or Testor's plastic cement. If you can't get those locally, then you'll have to order from online or have to stick with GW. Personally I've never had problems with GW stuff, so I just stick with it. When I run out I'll try Tamiya or Testor's to see where it gets me.