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Made in us
Furious Fire Dragon





Chicago

Hey all, I'm getting set to finish a Land Raider I've been scratchbuilding. I'm trying to find a tutorial or maybe just get general ideas on how to add rivets. I've been pretty "Orky" on my Ork vehicles and just hand cut my rivets but an Imperial vehicle should probably be cleaner. Is there a hole-puncher that you riveters like? Is there a pin that works? How do you rivet your SM and Guard Vehicles?

 
   
Made in gb
Dakka Veteran



South East London

Quite a good article here:

http://fromthewarp.blogspot.co.uk/2009/11/how-to-make-rivets-step-by-step.html

A lot of people take apart a water filter which contains loads of tiny beads and use those, but I believe they aren't all the same size so you would need to sort them but should get more than enough for several projects from one filter.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HynKe_CPnpU

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/10/04 16:05:13


"Dig in and wait for Winter" 
   
Made in us
Furious Fire Dragon





Chicago

Awesome! Now I just have to figure out how to get a used water filter.

Thanks!

 
   
Made in us
Fighter Ace






Denver, CO

Alternatively you could try and find a really cheap one and just bust it apart.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/10/04 17:21:55


Eagles soar, but weasels don't get sucked into Jet Engines.

My Little P&M Blog.
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My Blog on Random 40k Things, Painting, and some Narrative Batreps every now and then.
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2000 Points IG
2000 Points SM 
   
Made in us
[ARTICLE MOD]
Huge Hierodule






North Bay, CA

I use a leather punch and old credit cards

   
Made in ca
Judgemental Grey Knight Justicar





Oshawa, Ontario, Canada

 mars2024 wrote:
Awesome! Now I just have to figure out how to get a used water filter.

Thanks!


It would probably be better to use the small glass beads from the hobby/craft shop instead. Uniform size and shape and no sorting necessary. Also probably costs the same as the filter but with less mess and work involved.
   
Made in us
Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot





Los Angeles, CA, USA

If you want to go really crazy, try Grandt Line Products. They have a ton of rivets bolts and nuts in miniature scale.

http://grandtline.com/products/military/military_home.html
   
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

Rorschach9 wrote:
It would probably be better to use the small glass beads from the hobby/craft shop instead. Uniform size and shape and no sorting necessary. Also probably costs the same as the filter but with less mess and work involved.
Seconded. Have a Michaels or its equivalent nearby? Head to the scrapbooking section and look for the glitter/flocking. You'll find jars of plastic "microbeads" there that work a treat for smaller rivets. A few bucks nets you literally thousands of them, all perfectly round and uniformly sized. Perfect for troops and smaller detail rivets on vehicles. For larger structural rivets, though, you'll want to step up to glass seed beads. These are actually meant to be strung, so they have very fine holes in them (ignore them, fill them later, or be careful with orientation during placement - your call). If you can manage to source them, small ball bearings are even better. In either case, these are going to be a bit more expensive than plastic (microbeads or card/rod) or metal from a good bulk deal.

In any case, when countersunk, the look can't be beat - punched card/sliced rod doesn't cut it, at least for me. I need domed heads. They're more readily identifiable as rivets, as domed heads are more common in actual structures/stock models, and I just think they look cleaner and cooler.

The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
 
   
Made in us
Legendary Master of the Chapter






I actually bought some of those micro beads at Michael. the one i got though has varying sizes and shapes. not remotely uniform.

which one exactly are you buying?

 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in us
Furious Fire Dragon





Chicago

I need to go to Michaels for more Zap-a-gap anyway! I didn't think I was ever going to find a water filter (as much as I love the idea of recycling it for 40K). My other idea was to try go the GS rod tactic and try to get edges on it - more of a bolt than a rivet.

 
   
Made in ca
Sagitarius with a Big F'in Gun





Toronto, Canada

If you have a look at the end of my WIP thread, you can see my method to create flat top rivets like you're describing. Simple and faster than greenstuff rods. There's also purpose made styrene round-top rivets made for scratch building. I can't recall where it was I saw an article showing them, but with some extra thin styrene glue they are super simple to apply cleanly. Shop around and they can be found really cheap. I keep meaning to get some and give them a try.

"The old galaxy is dying, and the new galaxy struggles to be born; now is the time of monsters."


 
   
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

 Desubot wrote:
I actually bought some of those micro beads at Michael. the one i got though has varying sizes and shapes. not remotely uniform.

which one exactly are you buying?
Recollections Signature Microbeads, Antique Copper (3.2oz/90.7g). Came in a squared off glass jar about 1.5" across and 3" tall (with a frosted plastic top, half shaker and half open mouth under closing flip lids). SKU is 185531. Unless they've been discontinued (one little jar contains a lifetime supply for any but the most prolific scratchbuilder, so I haven't had to look for them since my initial purchase), an employee should be able to find them for you with that number. Can always call ahead to make sure they're still a current item and, if so, check stock levels - again, they just need to punch the SKU into an RF gun, so it's easy to do over the phone.

The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
 
   
Made in us
Legendary Master of the Chapter






I got the square one as well (black) and the sizes and shapes are all over the place (including ones fuzed together and very random shapes)

perhaps i got a bad batch.

 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in us
Trustworthy Shas'vre




DFW area Texas - Rarely

If 1/16" is small enough for you, get one of these, and some cheap sheets of plastic (or cardstock) and go to town....

http://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-12-23508897-Punch-16-Inch-Circle/dp/B0001DT3YU/ref=sr_1_3?

best of luck!

DavePak
"Remember, in life, the only thing you absolutely control is your own attitude - do not squander that power."
Fully Painted armies:
TAU: 10k Nids: 9600 Marines: 4000 Crons: 7600
Actor, Gamer, Comic, Corporate Nerd
 
   
Made in us
Furious Fire Dragon





Chicago

@dave: that was my original idea. I thought I might be able to find them at Michaels as well (maybe Blick or JoAnn's Fabric) I'm going to hit up Michaels next week so I'll check into all the above then. I just wish they had styrene rod too.

 
   
Made in de
Slaanesh Chosen Marine Riding a Fiend





Babenhausen, Germany

I have tried different types of rivets. I have some micro beads for round rivets.
Example on the leg armor of one of my noise marines.
Spoiler:


On infantery sized models i used a wire glued into drilled holes and then filed smooth to an unified length. (Be carefull to not use a strong wire or sanding will ruin your file)
Example on my Kharn leg armor and his axe.
Spoiler:


And on my scratchbuild vehicles i used plasticard rods in different sizes, cut them into small chunks and sanded them uniform afterwards after they bonded correctly. (Or replyed the ones that wheren't glued perfectly and came off)

   
 
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