[[HD VIDEO]] How to Wet Blend "thunder hammers"

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**Wrexasaur**

LBursley wrote:
Wrexasaur wrote:Nice video LB.

Do you determine your shadows, and possibly even mark lightly where your highlights need to be? As in using a lamp, or working in a space where the light is not ambient.

Well in the tutorial, I used the 2 color primer technique to "tell" me where the highlights are. Usually I just hold the model in the light until I like where the highlights and shadows are and use that same position as a reference while I paint the mini.

So you are "free-styling" the shadows? Like you just develop as you go?

**LBursley**

Sort of. I use to prime gray, hold the mini under the light with one hand and block out the shadows with a paintbrush loaded with black in the other hand. I don't do it like that now but rather work on a section at a time. Shadows are important which also changed the way I put my guys together. I fully assemble 99% of my models before painting. No use in spending time on the chest piece if the guy is holding a bolter across his chest. Much rather paint what it showing.

**Wrexasaur**

Cool. Thank you for the tips

**LBursley**

UPDATED WITH NEW VIDEO!

**DarkAngelsRK**

Great tut! Thanks. I was just wondering, how old are you? Not exact age, just like college, post college, etc.

**Mewiththeface**

I think I will have to employ this on one of my practice Crons. Also, how would you go about NMM? That effect seems very similar and I have tried it before and it looks great but it looks painted, not natural. Three more questions; First, where can I get a good and cheap slow-dri stuff? I really do not want to order off the internet as that causes hassle for me. Next, How exactly did you make a welt pallet? I kinda grasp something but got confused. Did you use water-paper towel-wax paper or water-wax paper? Lastly, where can I get a cheap but working air brush? I really have no funds and the little I get is usually spent on models and I really want an air brush without airing out my wallet. Thanks in advance!
Edit: I lied, One more. You mentioned something about a horizon line. What about on top of the hammer?

**Mafty**

dam nice video......what exactly does the matte medium do? I know what the other additives do (slow dry seems like one of the better mediums to get for wet blending no?)

anyways, good work

**LBursley**

Matte Medium is paint without pigment. If you want the same viscosity and still want to dilute you paints, people use matte medium. Slow Dri buys you 30seconds to a minute of drying time so you can push the paint around and blend. So yes, slow dri is the better buy for this technique.

**Karl Deathwolf**

Very sweet tut, I may actually try NMM now, where do you buy your paints usually

?

**LBursley**

Karl Deathwolf wrote:Very sweet tut, I may actually try NMM now, where do you buy your paints usually ?

If you live here in the US you can get it at Dick Blick. If you go to my site and click the USEFUL STUFF tab I have a list of tools I use and a link to the oils as well.

**DarkAngelsRK**

^Dick Blick? Is that like a hobby store? And when you say "your paints," do you mean Valejo?

**apwill4765**

Wow what a great tutorial! Looking at the difference between oil and acrylic, I am interested in giving oil paints a shot! GW would have you believe that their models burst into flame if they touch anything but GW paints, but being a Black Templar player, the way your oil wlhite just pops so well is awesome.

Are there any drawbacks to using oils over acrylics? Does it require more skill? I am a VERY novice painter, so if it is less forgiving than acrylics maybe I should just stick with GW lol

**Fateweaver**

Automatically Appended Next Post:

Fateweaver wrote:The ones he used are water-soluble oils. It makes no sense but trust me, it's how they work. Basically the binding agent also dissolves in water though you lose the properties of a TRUE oil paint (longevity, color fastness, durability).

Http://www.dickblick.com

It's an artist supply store. Just about anything and everything can be bought here, shipping and processing times are fast and occasionally some killer deals on paints.

If you want to use the H2Oil's as true oils you have to thin them with spirits or lacquer. Odorless mineral spirits are your friend as you won't kill everyone in your house and you can get a 32oz can for around $6-8 US dollars. Oils are more durable, cover better, less likely to fade over time and just have more of a "pop". Compare a watercolor painting to an oil painting and you'll see for yourself oil colors are more vibrant and lifelike.

The downside is they are a lot more of a hassle to clean (and to be safe I wouldn't use the same brushes for oils as for acrylics, could do wacky things to your acrylic paints in the event any mineral spirits get trapped in the bristles).

I think they are easier to use than the old Testors enamels (or enamel paint in general) but if you want to try them grab some test/garbage minis and try them first.

**Aerethan**

Got to see these models in person today, and they are far nicer in the flesh(not to say that they don't look excellent on the video).