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2014/06/27 14:10:30
Subject: Scratch Built Stuff on the Cheap - Dawn of War Plasma Generator WIP
It's 40K. Roll to hit, roll to wound, roll to save, etc... The game basically is the same. Just need to get used to all the little special rules here and there.
I like it, but honestly I've played so litte since my kids were born that I couldn't really tell you off hand what the
Thread here detailing the differences in MDF and Chipboard for the amatuer laser cutter enthusiast
Spoiler:
Laser Grade really isn't a thing...
With MDF, you want to get NAUF MDF (no formaldehyde binders...). For ply, you want interior grade adhesives (exterior grade will cut...just the adhesives are different enough from the wood that slicing through the layers becomes a challenge on some lower powered machines).
I have said it before - and I will say it again...cabinet shops. Medite is one of the more commonly available brands of NAUF MDF (in the US, and pretty sure they are in Europe as well). You can get it from 1/8" up to 1" without much difficulty - and it comes both thicker and thinner than that too. You won't find it on the shelves of a big box store or even most local lumber yards though. Distributors like Hood, Rugby and Royal Plywood sell to cabinet and furniture shops directly...and if you ring them up, they will likely be willing to throw a sheet or two on their next order for you.
Barring that, specialty wood working stores online can sell partial sheets too - but it is an expensive way to do it. Your shipping cost will be higher for a partial sheet than buying a full sheet locally.
HDF and Masonite are not the same thing...and the tempered thing, well, that is just confusing things further.
MDF, LDF, HDF and ULDF are all going to be smooth on two sides. They will never be found tempered - that is a process used on a different material. You can find regular and what is sometimes referred to as double refined or sometimes substrate grade (or even called door grade) in your fiber boards. These are smoother than regular fiberboards as the fibers have been processed twice before forming the panels.
Hardboard (one of the brand names is Masonite) is a bit different than fiberboard. I won't bore you with the particulars, but the fibers are a bit shorter, so the finished surface is even smoother than MDF. You can get hardboard in S1S and S2S varieties. The S1S will be very smooth on one side and look a bit like a waffle on the back side, this comes from the screen which it is pressed against during processing. S2S is smooth on both sides being pressed between two polished metal plates.
Hardboard comes in regular and tempered. Tempered has had an oil treatment applied in order to make it moisture resistant, and it is a common material used for things like signs and skins for garage doors (and even some siding will be made from it). When looking at the unprocessed hardboard, you can tell the difference between tempered and regular by the color, with tempered being noticeably darker than untempered. When tempered - it is tempered everywhere...but that has no bearing on whether it is smooth on one side or two sides.
You can find hardboard in 1/8" and 1/4" without much difficulty from big box stores. Sometimes raw, sometimes in their paneling departments with a coat of primer applied to it. It is also available in 1/2" thicknesses from lumber distributors as that is the thickness which is often used for signs (the 1/2" will almost always be tempered).
Again - you can buy it online from several sources if you want...but the shipping is ridiculous for a product that is so cheap (but bulky). A quick look at one supplier, and I can get 20 sheets from a local shop for the same price that I can get one sheet cut into 2x2 squares shipped to me.
Depending on what you are looking for in particular though - you may also want to add chipboard to your searches (not to be confused with particle board or OSB - both of which are sometimes called chipboard). Chipboard is a thick card or paper type product as opposed to the MDF/hardboard processing techniques. It is often used for things like book bindings and photo boards, and is available in a variety of thicknesses starting from thick paper all the way up to around 1/8". Art supply houses like DickBlick sell it online (you can also pick up hardboard from them...though you will need to verify if it is S2S).
It was an interesting read for me since I had contemplated getting a laser engraver/cutter. Ended up being much too expensive for me to get as a hobby item, but I contemplate trying it as a small buissiness. Right now, just don't have the time it would take. Doesn't stop me from dreaming about a kickstarter funded terrain buissiness of my own
BTW Grim, love the new banner ad in your sig
This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2014/06/29 16:45:24
Huh, yeah that is interesting. The whole 3d printing and laser cutting concepts are very intriguing to me, but there's no way I'd have the follow through to make a business out of it. If you ever start something up, I'm liable to have at least a mild interest, you make some spiffy things here.
As to the banner, thanks I've been meaning to put something in there for ages.
2014/06/29 17:21:00
Subject: Scratch Built Stuff on the Cheap - Dawn of War Plasma Generator WIP
It takes an estimated 10K USD to get a laser cutter buissiness going with proffesional grade equipment. Epilog, who makes top of the line laser cutters, also offers lease agreements.
Still daydreaming about working up a bunch of designs, getting a short term lease, and running a kickstarter to make back my investment.
I've got a bunch of great ideas batting around in myhead, but I keep getting distracted and losing focus before implementing them.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/06/29 17:21:59
Well that's just as cool. Getting to see you make cool stuff is as good or better than buying it myself. I'm waist deep in terrain as it is, and I'm a reasonably tall guy. Definitely looking forward to seeing what you come up with though
2014/06/30 13:32:12
Subject: Scratch Built Stuff on the Cheap - Dawn of War Plasma Generator WIP
Honestly, I don't know if he is just testing the waters with custom orders, and I didn't want to see him flooded with simultaneous requests, at least not until after he's done some work for me.
My 30 'Ard Boyz w/Shootas, nob, and rokkit launchas is now tipping the scales at 370 points. Going to have to rethink my 500 point Ork force. May trade them in for 30 slugga/choopa boyz.
Also, looks like I'll need to be kustomizing some Pain Boyz and Big Meks.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/07/01 07:38:20
Got some progress done, although none of it really picture worthy.
Monoliths - Spray painted base coat of flat Black, followed by hand painted layer of Gloss Black. The plan is to add 3 layers of progressively lighter green around the edges to give it that classic Necron Look.
Ork boyz - Found, assembled, and base coated Yellow 30'ish Assault on Black Reach Slugga Choppa Boyz.
Got tank - Base coated tank Treads black, then decided I need to add more rivets to it before painting it further.
Cardboard Ruins - I wasn't happy with the way the edges were turning out. Applied PVA glue and sand to the offending edges. Happy with the results. Lots of edges though, didn't have time to finish.
Bunker Fortification - Toying with the idea of adding 3 Bunkers and 2 Aegis Defense Lines to my army list. Only problem is I need to scratch build them. Started experimentally building one out of cardboard.
Tried out a 500 point Ork army list with a bunker fortification. It was worth 80 points to get a 20 boyz mob 18" across the field in turn 1.
The bunker on the left is made from corrugated cardboard and the one on the right is foamcore.
Both have been covered in white labels. I had roll that was discarded from work, and they served nicely to seal and reinforce the model. Gives it a bit of ramshackle metal plate look.
Not able to get me the rulebook this year...I need to ask, do the bunkers function as an underground network??? Cool... I need to see it painted to say if the labled look works...but I guess adding rivets would be helpful
The bunker is AV14 with 2 fire points allowing 8 models to shoot from inside for 55 points.
There is an escape hatch upgrade, for 25 points, that allows you to place an additional acces point for the bunker 12" away.
Deploy boyz in building, on edge deployment zone, place access point 12" into middle of battlezone.
Turn 1, disembark boyz at access point and then move 6", run for additional distance if you like.
The Escape Hatch does not benefit from Repel the Enemy special rule, so troops exiting through escape hatch can not assualt ont he same turn.
I've used this in 2 battles so far, and none of my oppenents were thrilled by 20 Orks, with FNP, on the edge of their deployment zone turn 1
Viktor von Domm wrote: I bet... tho I have yet never played a game, I have read that fighting that hailstorm of dices an ork mob produces...is quite the thrill^^
30 Boyz with Shootas firing with 60 dice is a thing of beauty, only matched by 30 slugga/choppa boyz with 120 dice on the charge.
30 Boyz with Shootas firing with 60 dice , 20 hit, 10 wound, then they make saves
30 slugga/choppa boyz with 120 dice on the charge. 60 hit, 30 wound, then they make saves
It never works out that well in practice. The boyz have cardboard 6+ armor, take casualties from snapfire when they charge, and you can never really fit them all into melee.
On a good day though, your charging a 5-10 man unit, caused a casualty shooting with pistols before the charge, only lost 5 or so boyz to snapfire, and then manage something like 15 wounds, that manages to murder 5 or so MEQ troops, crippling that squad. .
Their greatest strength is tying up the enemy for most of the game, while the real threats get into position.
Deff Dreads are slow, but they enemy can't shoot at them if they are tied up in melee.
In the last 2 games I've had lobbas go completely unmolested. The enemy spent the entire time dealing with boyz, and then had to waste another turn wiping out grots
Now that killing stuff isn't the main source of VP's, games can be won by forcing the enemy to deal with minor threats while you work the angles.
While playing this weekend I ressurected some ancient terrain I never got around to finishing.
Back when Tau came out I started a Tau force, that I never played more than once or twice. To go along with that terrain I tried to make approriate Tau terrian. Unfortunately most of that terrain was evidently held together with the promise of peace between worlds and good intentions, since it fell apart the instant I took it off the shelf and tried to use it.
Today I was able to rebuild one piece. Reinfoced it from the inside, in a manner similar to what I did with the bottle cap storage bins.
