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Made in us



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Made in gb
Fixture of Dakka






A couple of things; firstly, there appears to be an image missing (in the paragraph about drilling holes).

Secondly, DON'T USE cyanoacrylate superglue! I use 2-part 5-minute epoxy, or you can get special non-fogging superglue; for example:

http://www.shop4glue.com/thick-foam-safe-odourless-cyano-superglue-adhesive-non-fogging-non-blooming-polystyrene-depron-007c-97-p.asp
http://www.shop4glue.com/brushable-non-fog-superglue-cyanoacrylate-super-glue-adhesive-cyano-precision-brush-on-bottle-20g-152-p.asp
   
Made in us
Focused Fire Warrior






Serbia

Images have been updated, and the article is now complete.

Thanks for your information on the glue. I'll add it to the article.

6th Skylight Patrol Contingent StarForge P&M blog
Painted = 131 
   
Made in us
Hellish Haemonculus






Boskydell, IL

Found it kind of disappointing.

I think clear bases absolutely ruin models, (the entire point of minis is to fool your eye into thinking it's looking at something real, just in miniature scale--a clear acrylic rod up a model's butt totally spoils the effect) and while I appreciated the tips for working with them, I was hoping the article would have more information about disguising them, or eliminating them entirely.

I did a poll though, a while back, and most folks are either indifferent, or like clear bases, so your article will probably be pretty well received.

Welcome to the Freakshow!

(Leadership-shenanigans for Eldar of all types.) 
   
Made in au
Incorporating Wet-Blending




Sydney

I think clear basing is good when you are playing on great tables. Basing for fields and playing on a cityscape board looks ridiculously terrible.

This isn't really a debate on that though, as far as a guide goes it is really well detailed.

   
Made in us
Focused Fire Warrior






Serbia

 Jimsolo wrote:
I think clear bases absolutely ruin models, (the entire point of minis is to fool your eye into thinking it's looking at something real, just in miniature scale--a clear acrylic rod up a model's butt totally spoils the effect) and while I appreciated the tips for working with them, I was hoping the article would have more information about disguising them, or eliminating them entirely.


I hear what you are saying. And looking from your point of view, representing a 'bonsai' warrior, you are 100% true. But again, there clear bases that are based. Look at this drone base here.
Rods is here merely to hold the model.

Or this Bonsai Crimson Hunter right here.


On the topic of 'rod up the butt', I too felt weird holding the model and the drill and being like: "Now I have to drill here? Damn, that hurts".



kb_lock wrote:
I think clear basing is good when you are playing on great tables. Basing for fields and playing on a cityscape board looks ridiculously terrible.
This isn't really a debate on that though, as far as a guide goes it is really well detailed.


Thanks. One question that arises right now is 'wobbly model'. Having a base that has full flat bottom rather than hollow (like most GW bases) may lead to wobbly model when playing in CityScape (lots of ruins, gravel, debris) areas. Time will tell.

6th Skylight Patrol Contingent StarForge P&M blog
Painted = 131 
   
Made in us
Ship's Officer





Dallas, TX

Clear rod are great as long as the base is painted, what I see a lot from beginners is that they leave the clear base as is. Also, clear rod is much better that black primer rod or wire holding up a model. The latter just scream amateur, I don't know what I'm doing.

I use clear urethane glue for clear rod attachment, it takes half a day to cure, but it doesn't fog what so ever. For frames that attach to clear canopies: I just use small dab of super glue at joint points.
   
Made in us
Focused Fire Warrior






Serbia

 Big Mac wrote:
Clear rod are great as long as the base is painted, what I see a lot from beginners is that they leave the clear base as is./quote]


I'm that kind of a guy, but only cause I'm on a knowledge/time/money/space budget right now. My next 'army' will definitely be based. Full on!

6th Skylight Patrol Contingent StarForge P&M blog
Painted = 131 
   
Made in gb
Fixture of Dakka






I like that Eldar fighter, but I think it will look absolutely awful if used as a gaming piece. Having that tree follow the plane around the board looks, IMO, ridiculous and spoils the visual appeal of the game as a whole.

That's why I use clear bases. For display pieces, the base can provide context to the model and the action its depicting. During a game, that context is provided by the tabletop and the armies as a whole, so the base is at best a distraction. It's only there to stop the miniature falling over.

Plain black rods are a close second, IMO, to clear ones. They're obviously more visually intrusive, but if kept thin enough, they sort of fade into the background somewhat.
   
Made in us
Focused Fire Warrior






Serbia

Look what I got today.




Thanks for recommendation guys.

6th Skylight Patrol Contingent StarForge P&M blog
Painted = 131 
   
Made in nl
Automated Rubric Marine of Tzeentch



Netherlands

Sorry, probably not exactly on topic for clear bases but this is the most ingenious idea I have ever seen:


14000
15000
4000 
   
Made in us
Focused Fire Warrior






Serbia

topaxygouroun i wrote:
Sorry, probably not exactly on topic for clear bases but this is the most ingenious idea I have ever seen:



You picture did not link propperly. Either upload picture to your gallery, or if linking external links, use URL instead IMG codes.

6th Skylight Patrol Contingent StarForge P&M blog
Painted = 131 
   
 
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