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2015/09/07 03:22:27
Subject: Topic Update
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This is an automated message added by the articles system. A new article titled Short guide to Clear Bases has been added to the dakka articles system. This message thread is for the discussion of content in the article. If you have anything to add to the article, then just jump in and edit it by going to the actual article page and clicking 'edit' (the link can be found just above the article). If there is no edit link then the article is locked for now, so just add your comments or content to this thread and if they are appropriate then they should eventually get merged in. If there is something in the article that you wish to debate or comment on, then this is the place to do it. Just hit the reply button and get chatting! You need to be registered and logged in to post in the forums so if you are an anonymous article editor then now would be a great time to register and join in dakka's great forum discussion!
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2015/09/07 07:44:11
Subject: Article Discussion: Short guide to Clear Bases
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Fixture of Dakka
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2015/09/07 23:42:59
Subject: Re:Article Discussion: Short guide to Clear Bases
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Focused Fire Warrior
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Images have been updated, and the article is now complete.
Thanks for your information on the glue. I'll add it to the article.
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2015/09/08 00:51:00
Subject: Re:Article Discussion: Short guide to Clear Bases
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Hellish Haemonculus
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Found it kind of disappointing.
I think clear bases absolutely ruin models, (the entire point of minis is to fool your eye into thinking it's looking at something real, just in miniature scale--a clear acrylic rod up a model's butt totally spoils the effect) and while I appreciated the tips for working with them, I was hoping the article would have more information about disguising them, or eliminating them entirely.
I did a poll though, a while back, and most folks are either indifferent, or like clear bases, so your article will probably be pretty well received.
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2015/09/08 01:05:58
Subject: Article Discussion: Short guide to Clear Bases
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Incorporating Wet-Blending
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I think clear basing is good when you are playing on great tables. Basing for fields and playing on a cityscape board looks ridiculously terrible.
This isn't really a debate on that though, as far as a guide goes it is really well detailed.
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2015/09/08 02:07:00
Subject: Re:Article Discussion: Short guide to Clear Bases
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Focused Fire Warrior
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Jimsolo wrote:I think clear bases absolutely ruin models, (the entire point of minis is to fool your eye into thinking it's looking at something real, just in miniature scale--a clear acrylic rod up a model's butt totally spoils the effect) and while I appreciated the tips for working with them, I was hoping the article would have more information about disguising them, or eliminating them entirely.
I hear what you are saying. And looking from your point of view, representing a 'bonsai' warrior, you are 100% true. But again, there clear bases that are based. Look at this drone base here.
Rods is here merely to hold the model.
Or this Bonsai Crimson Hunter right here.
On the topic of 'rod up the butt', I too felt weird holding the model and the drill and being like: "Now I have to drill here? Damn, that hurts".
kb_lock wrote:I think clear basing is good when you are playing on great tables. Basing for fields and playing on a cityscape board looks ridiculously terrible.
This isn't really a debate on that though, as far as a guide goes it is really well detailed.
Thanks. One question that arises right now is 'wobbly model'. Having a base that has full flat bottom rather than hollow (like most GW bases) may lead to wobbly model when playing in CityScape (lots of ruins, gravel, debris) areas. Time will tell.
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2015/09/08 03:24:40
Subject: Article Discussion: Short guide to Clear Bases
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Ship's Officer
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Clear rod are great as long as the base is painted, what I see a lot from beginners is that they leave the clear base as is. Also, clear rod is much better that black primer rod or wire holding up a model. The latter just scream amateur, I don't know what I'm doing.
I use clear urethane glue for clear rod attachment, it takes half a day to cure, but it doesn't fog what so ever. For frames that attach to clear canopies: I just use small dab of super glue at joint points.
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2015/09/08 06:23:16
Subject: Article Discussion: Short guide to Clear Bases
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Focused Fire Warrior
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Big Mac wrote:Clear rod are great as long as the base is painted, what I see a lot from beginners is that they leave the clear base as is./quote]
I'm that kind of a guy, but only cause I'm on a knowledge/time/money/space budget right now. My next 'army' will definitely be based. Full on!
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2015/09/09 13:56:25
Subject: Article Discussion: Short guide to Clear Bases
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Fixture of Dakka
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I like that Eldar fighter, but I think it will look absolutely awful if used as a gaming piece. Having that tree follow the plane around the board looks, IMO, ridiculous and spoils the visual appeal of the game as a whole.
That's why I use clear bases. For display pieces, the base can provide context to the model and the action its depicting. During a game, that context is provided by the tabletop and the armies as a whole, so the base is at best a distraction. It's only there to stop the miniature falling over.
Plain black rods are a close second, IMO, to clear ones. They're obviously more visually intrusive, but if kept thin enough, they sort of fade into the background somewhat.
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2015/09/14 05:40:43
Subject: Re:Article Discussion: Short guide to Clear Bases
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Focused Fire Warrior
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Look what I got today.
Thanks for recommendation guys.
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2015/09/14 08:29:22
Subject: Re:Article Discussion: Short guide to Clear Bases
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Automated Rubric Marine of Tzeentch
Netherlands
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Sorry, probably not exactly on topic for clear bases but this is the most ingenious idea I have ever seen:
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2015/09/14 17:06:41
Subject: Re:Article Discussion: Short guide to Clear Bases
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Focused Fire Warrior
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topaxygouroun i wrote:Sorry, probably not exactly on topic for clear bases but this is the most ingenious idea I have ever seen:
You picture did not link propperly. Either upload picture to your gallery, or if linking external links, use URL instead IMG codes.
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