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I just had some laser-cut MDF terrain arrive (Infinity terrain from Impudent Moral). I have never worked with wood before, so this is a completely new experience for me.

I have picked up a wood primer. I was told I may need to apply multiple coats because the wood could absorb it. Would it be easy to tell whether or not I need to re-coat (I have no idea what to look for)? Is the wood likely to swell/expand as a result of this absorption? If so, should I glue the parts together first (to make sure everything fits), or would it be OK to leave them apart while painting (to make the painting easier) and glue afterwards?

Since it is going to be larger surfaces, I was thinking of picking up some spray cans (perhaps Army Painter?) to quickly handle the bulk of the work, then use a brush for any details I want to apply. Is that a good basic plan, or would I be better advised to do something else?

Any general advice for a first timer, to avoid obvious pitfalls or get a better final product?

Start by using a scrap of MDF .(so you do not screw up the nice parts)
I always use a solvent based sanding sealer FIRST. Then a solvent based primer. I find this lowers the number of coats required.
(For MDF an alchohol based product is best)
This prevents swelling..
Exposed edges always seem to be more porous so may require an extra coat of primer.
NOTE: never use a water based primer on MDF ..do not use water based paints till its well primed or you will get swelling.
practice with scrap

I've never had any trouble spraying or painting onto MDF scenery in comparison to any other material. A simple primer from a spray can has served us well enough in all cases.
Oddly enough a lot of ours comes from the same company.

Most spray paints are solvent based.

Mayacast (infinity podcast) recommended an ENAMEL spray for the primer (MATT), then you can detail with whatever you prefer.
The enamels tend to form skins without being overly absorbed into the mdf - unlike acrylics, which tend to be wicked up by it.

I'd tend to agree - but I've used that method for a decade or so now with very few issues (I don't spray when it's too humid, wet or windy, which pretty much means mid-year gets no painting done.

Thanks for the tips!

I just checked the primer I have and could not see the keywords "solvent-based," "water-based," or "enamel" anywhere on the can. How would I confirm whether or not I have the right product?

If I got a sanding sealer and applied it first, would that make it so any primer (no matter what I have) would work just fine?

I use MDF for terrain stuff all the time. I use it for the base of all my buildings, rubble piles, craters, barriers, etc. It sucks up the black primer like a wino does Mad Dog 20/20, but not so much on the smooth side. Assuming you have normal MDF with one side slick & shiny and the other side rough, black primer looks grey after one coat on the rough side. Less so on the smooth side, but it can still be off. Like somebody said before, grab a cut-off or extra piece and test it.


Ghidorah

Laser cut has two (relatively) smooth sides, there's no raw side like on DIY store MDF.

Ahh. I see. Well, you could always hit it with a matte clear coat before priming. That would create a barrier that should stop it from soaking in.


Ghidorah