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Here's a thread for the stuff I've 3d printed. As I'm a mercenary scumbag who wants to make a bit of money from my hobby, these are all for sale. I won't post a price list as that's a bit too close to a raw advert. I will however answer questions on the printing process.

So to the story:
A couple of weeks ago I won a 3d printer in a facebook giveaway - a Wanhau duplicator i3 (v2). Its a neat little machine, with some impressive capability given it's price point (and for free, I ain't gonna sniff at it). So I set to learning how to put it to work...

These are the results to date. Currently they're all roughly wild west related (Dead Man's Hand is my current favorite game), but I'll be doing more stuff (and adding to this thread) as time goes on.

First thing I did was a water pump. Tricky to get to print (tall thin things suffer with print heat), but eventually I sussed out the settings to use and an optimal batch size/

Here's the model, based up on a penny:


Next up was some booze for the bar. Again, the bottles were a bit of a challenge, and the empty crate has deep holes in it that make it challenging to print. Went through a couple of revisions on this to get the crates to stack if I have more of them.

Here's the model, penny for scale:


And that booze had to come from somewhere. Again, a model that went through several quick revisions:

First, with a printed condenser coil. As it turns out, it's too thin to print successfully over the necessary gaps between supports for the spiral.


So the coil was replaced with a coil of copper wire. Easier, and cheaper (in terms of time, if not material) than trying to print it.



And with the ever-present penny for scale:


I'd love opinions and feedback on these, they're the first actual product I've put out in a long while, and the first that I produce start-to-finish in house.

Ahh, winterdyne. You continue to impress.

RE: the still. I think the copper wire works better than a printed coil. Gives it a more realistic look.

Thanks. I'm still learning tricks. My crazy brain kicked in and I'm considering doing a 28mm scale safe with working wheel-lock (two gears hidden in the door, so you have to spin the wheel to unlock it)... but that's insane, no?

Lovely stuff.

winterdyne wrote:
Thanks. I'm still learning tricks. My crazy brain kicked in and I'm considering doing a 28mm scale safe with working wheel-lock (two gears hidden in the door, so you have to spin the wheel to unlock it)... but that's insane, no?

Yes, it is. In the best way.

The above are all excellent. Favourite has to be the Still.

These are awesome, I love the water pump!

Very cool

More little things:

winterdyne wrote:
Thanks. I'm still learning tricks. My crazy brain kicked in and I'm considering doing a 28mm scale safe with working wheel-lock (two gears hidden in the door, so you have to spin the wheel to unlock it)... but that's insane, no?

we have a playmobil set of this...you could nick the apparatus from them it is quite a basic one...




your models are amazing! will be following this with interest!

Something a bit more generic:

Sci-fi crate set. 6 per set.

Hi Winter.

Really sorry if this is bumping an old post, but I am amazed by these models. I really wanted to get into 3D printing to do exactly this sort of thing, but I was told that 28mm was just far too small to get decent results with the current technology.

Your prints prove otherwise!

Could you please let me know a bit more about your setup?

What printer and software do you use? What materials?

Basically, can you explain to someone who is still relatively clueless about 3D printing how to get to where you are?

I use a Wanhao Duplicator i3 (v2) that I won in a Facebook giveaway by Technology Outlet UK.

It's a basic, FFM (fused filament modelling) machine based on Prusa's duplicator design. I reckon around £350, delivered, with filament. So not a high end machine by any stretch.

I'm currently using it stock (no extra modifications). It's extremely likely I will improve the machine by adding a brace for the z-axis. I do have a small space heater fan aimed at the machine set to cool to provide cooling.

For modelling I'm using a 20 year old version of Lightwave. You could use anything you find simple enough to work with that exports Wavefront .obj files. I have some experience with this from my video game development days.

For slicing (the software that turns a model into instructions to run the machine) I use the latest version of Cura provided by Wanhao.

The filament I've used is some clear stuff I got given with the printer (no idea on the brand) and the blue stuff is PolyPlus.

That's the what. Now to the 'how'...

Persistence I think is key. Every model will print a bit differently, and the settings you need to use can vary depending on the design - it boils down to a balancing act between print speed, temperature, wall thickness and extrusion rate, with the last two effectively being pretty much the same thing, with some impact on how the slicing is done.

It's important to understand how the machine works - this is a learning curve - experience will tell you what settings are viable for what design. It's also a boon if you design the models yourself as you can then add support manually rather than relying on the slicer to do it, which can be cleaner, especially if the design needs free-hanging structures (like the water pump spout). Sometimes its a call between more parts, or some other workaround.

Also, the painted examples I show are cleaned up - prints can and will look a bit rougher raw - and it's another balance between having ease of assembly and ease of print.

That's really helpful, Thanks!

I had quite a lot of experience with Blender 3D in the past, probably very out of date now, but I could pick it up again. I looked into the Wanhao i3 V2 Duplicator online and it has great reviews, and a great price too.

THANKS!!

Another set coming up, full late C19 to early C20 general store:

Nice! Pretty tidy prints from your machine eh? We have a 3D printer, but we've only opened the box as yet lol. My brother has some experience with CAD so it shouldn't take too much messing about, I hope.

Simple shapes are easy enough, but you should see the bag of misprinted cash registers and scales... Eeesh, it's taken a while to get sorted.

Moar crates:

Bar set. Cash register will be sold separately. Bottle from the Bootleg Booze set. 11 part kit.

Lovely job, winterdyne . Any plans to do more sci-fi stuff?

Yeah, I'll do more scifi stuff at some point, but for now I don't get that much design time so it's usually things I want.

Here's a quick table and chair set. 4 pieces for the table, 4 pieces for each chair.

Very impressive work!

Why is this in the 40k section ?

It's in painting and modelling showcase. Go home, you're drunk. :-p

Also my table and chairs are better than these cheapy chinese ones:



Mental note: Do a grandfather clock, too.

Painted up and going on sale today:





And I'm thinking a multipack with included bottles might be cool to do:

Another set of stuff I was after...



Here's what they look like in place:

And round version:

Great stuff - very useful too!

So, I've got myself a commercial printing license for the Black Scrolls Games range of stuff, including their City of Tarok buildings (which are lovely). Printed to my typical working standard (ie would *I* use it?) , these are now available to buy from my webshop.
These are the buildings I've got painted up for my own use so far. I'll probably add bases to them at some point, just to tie them in with the rest of my terrain a bit better.

A tiny cottage - about the size of the old WFB chapel kit:



A small house - actually about the size (without walls) of the old WFB fortified manor (which I also need to get round to painting):

The city of tarok stuff is great. I have been printing it myself. I found that I preferred having scaled up 115% for Warhammer but at 100% it looks great.