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Hello, my fellow gaming nerds. Play you a loyalist, heretic, immortal, or even a space bug, you need a surface to play on, and you all dream of things unachievable (better codexes, winning, or a place to play your game without getting sore feet by the end).

I'd like to develop some conceptual ideas for a gaming table tailored to WH40k; not the game, but the player. Similar to Mazda's development of cars for the driver experience, not safety or performance.

Let's get the obvious out of the way. Table and environment features need to be:

1) 6'x4' surface
2) Sturdy table(generally a wooden construction)
3) Space for players, extra models, and reference books
4) somewhere with atmosphere, oxygen, no fire, etc.

Now lets dream a little, what features have you found helpful at LFGC or constantly wish you had available (chairs, stools, extra table space, shelves, etc.)? Terrain not included, as terrain and board decoration are more about the game and less the experience for the player. What color or material should the table be? Where do you like your extra storage space so you know your resting models are safe and not fleeing out the door in the hands of another Warmaster?

You love the game, what could make the experience better?

I prefer an 8'x4' surface actually - I still use a 6'x4' gamemat, but giving each player a 4'x1' area for books, templates, dice, beer, reserves and casualties speeds things compared to needing a separate side table.

Good overhead lighting is pretty key too.

The table needs to be 8'X4'. This allows for a 12" zone on either side the players can use to place books, units in reserve, dead piles and misc gaming equipment all in one convenient place for each player. It also allows for a larger table should you decide to play a large points, multi-player game.

I like the idea of extra space for those things. My local shop has a shelf about that size for the extras you mentioned and it always came in handy.

The only time it posed a problem was with large games and mashing tables together (a very rare occurrence, though)

Lighting is something I never thought of, but that is a great point!


When I think of these things, I think having a small slide out tray with reference sheets for universal things like Special rules from BRB and Psychic Powers would be handy.

I've considered containers for "dead" models or shelving for cases and luggage. This would prevent a lot of people from sitting at the table to play, however, Warhammer seems like it would be difficult to play while sitting.

ImpGuardPanzies wrote:
I like the idea of extra space for those things. My local shop has a shelf about that size for the extras you mentioned and it always came in handy.

The only time it posed a problem was with large games and mashing tables together (a very rare occurrence, though)

Not a shelf, just build the table with a 4X8 sheet of plywood. That way the extra 2 feet can be gaming surface if necessary.

I've never wanted much from a table beyond it looking epic and having that deadzone at either end.
My local group gives chairs, the only time I sit down is during the ~5 minute announcement period. Although actually I use the chairs to place my case on when unpacking/packing up.

But I mean if we really want to get fancy, having drinks dispensors would be pretty neat. Although beyond that I can't even think of any other ridiculously impractical yet awesome features... I am but a simple gamer.

Are we wishlisting things or thinking of things that are feasible?

Some things that would be great to have but aren't really feasible would be:

A rim along the edge to act as a dice trap to keep dice from falling on the floor.

A way for the table to fold at least in half, but perhaps in 3 so it can be easily stored.

A price point of $100 or less.

At least 2 outlets per side with a 10ft cord to plug the table in so players can charge tablets, phones, etc.

A built in shelf to hold things like paper, pens, pencils, counter tokens, and other non-game specific bits and bobs.

A built in shelf to hold sorted dice that will keep dice secure from bouncing around and mixing different sided dice together.

Many of the things listed here are difficult to get under 100$ USD with a quality feel for a production level product. But what others have said, go with 8x4 for the extra space. I also plan on building some 1x4 tiles for special games.

I like having a lower level that is at least 2 feet tall. That way you can store cases/boxes/backpacks what have you underneath and able to be kept in sight. I second the idea of additional space for storing models/books/food/drinks or what have you.

I like being able to have a stool/chair so if there are multiple tables being planned enough space for two players to be sitting in front of their table and still have a person able to semi-comfortably move between them if they have to.

For about general table, it should be light enough or mounted in a way two people can maneuver/move it easily. If too heavy to be picked up, mounted on wheels with a brake locking system.

For the playing area, good over head lighting, air circulation/air conditioning/heating, and a sound system are all appreciated.

Beer. And pretzels.

The 8x4 is a good suggestion. At one of our local game stores (Endgame Oakland), they actually have a tray with a handle that sits on the extra 2' and you set your stuff up in the tray. When you decide table side, you can lift the tray by its handle and turn it around so your models are on your side.

It's simple but really effective. I'll try to find a picture of it.

(edit) Here they are:

https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uN78241FJUI/WHZ6SByJ83I/AAAAAAAAKEs/iu80JcLoDx4vO2JxhAK_krUO4vQxb6N6ACEw/s1600/00%2Bday%2Bstart.png

The tables are set that low because they are wheelchair accessible.

It either needs to be at a height that you can sit down and comfortably reach across, or tall enough that you don't need to stoop over it constantly. Unfortunately I find most tables fall somewhere in between the two, so a weekend of gaming tends to leave me with a 45 degree crick in my back.

This is harder if you can't convince your gaming group to grow to a standardised height, of course.

Particularly if the tall ones complain if you bring a hacksaw with you...

Alternatively, one of these http://www.geekchichq.com/collections/game-room-tables/products/sultan-deposit

For about general table, it should be light enough or mounted in a way two people can maneuver/move it easily. If too heavy to be picked up, mounted on wheels with a brake locking system.

I find the tables that are structurally sound and have the extra space or shelves are quite heavy. I'm not sure what adds all the weight, I don't remember plywood being that heavy. I like the wheels plan though.

Are we wishlisting things or thinking of things that are feasible?

Feasible or not, either way. Dream a little. I like the low rim for dice idea, especially if it can be removed or lowered to table mash.

What about a small border on the 6' side of the table to help prevent passer-byers from knocking things that are near the edge? I know I'm contradicting myself with this idea. But some models have crazy wingspan and pokey things just begging to catch some clothing.


Say in a hypothetical game store, there exist tables at an appropriate height to sit at, would you do it? Would Warhammer still be Warhammer if you were sitting?

Cheap'n'Cheerful gaming table.
I made four variants of this for my FLGS and made fifty bucks for each one.

*Sturdy collapsible table - Terrain, models, codexes and dice are usually all the table holds but every now and then both players will put weight on it, their own when they lean over for handshakes mostly.
*8x4 plywood board spray painted grey.
*Ruined city terrain - can be made as cheap as spray painted beer cases/slabs/bricks/whatever your local slang for 24x375ml bottle boxes happens to be chopped up to create ruined buildings. Perfect terrain, light and cheap.
*Furry green tablecloth - 10×6, blotched with the same grey spraypaint.
*Spray foam and a hacksaw will make acceptable hills.

Each table cost me $150 AUS to build, was sold to the FLGS for $200 and has seen plenty of action. One even suffered a table flip. Cost me a grand total of three hours of time and twenty bucks for the FLGS to replace the entire city scape.

After the table cool people to play against makes perfection.

My answer to OP question differs depending on whether said table is intended for FLGS or home use.

At FLGS, as for the table itself, large enough, stable play area with "utility margin" will suffice. A rim to secure modular terrain and preventing dice falls and pushing things off the table is a nice addition to this.

But what is most crucial for me is enough space AROUND the table to move freely and safely. I'm tall, with lower back problems and I need to be able to move around to move my models and not lean over the entire width, so I'm not really fond of "my side, your side" setups and I avoid FLGSs with single, long, continously joined tables or with just a narrow passages between tables. And because there are people on both ends of a "height related accesibility problem" (including people on wheelchairs), ideal FLGSs should have at least one "higher" and one "lower" table with easy acces.

When it comes to home use however, such table must either be collapsible or multipurpose, and if multipurpose, it has to be a real piece of furniture, because I don't have a wargaming-dedicated basement. Sultan table linked above is a fine example of the latter. I currently play on a home made collapsible table, but I feel a growing need of designing a new solution, that would combine foldability, utility and style, and have enough storage volume to accomodate for all of my terrain and models. Something akin to steamer/dresser trunk, but with wargaming in mind.

I usually sit during my opponent's turns. My bones are old and creaky and I only play with people I trust to be fair when measuring.

(I live in a condo without space for a dedicated gaming table, so I use two 4x4 pieces of plywood that go on top of the dining room table.)

I would actually prefer a 5x8 table. having 6 inches along the length for some little dice piles or templates to sit without making reaching onto the table a challenge.

I also like the idea of having little grooves painted red or blue that mark out deployment zones for the 3 styles of deployment.

I don't know... all my tables are 4' x 6' and I never even considered making them 4' x 8' ... probably because I want to be able to arrange them however I want for Apoc.

We generally store our stuff on other tables that I have, cheap Ikea 2 meters x .6 , more than enough room too.

I would stick with 4' x 6' just because of Apoc, but if you don't intend to join them or anything, go 4'x8', less work and integrated shelf space on the sides.

With regards to surface, there's the lazy option, just buy 6'x4' printed mousepad cloth mats, they're about 50 bucks each.

Or there's the cheap option, just get free sand and a bucket of PVA, mix some of that, create some height variation by spreading it with your hands unevenly on the table, let dry, paint one color, drybrush another and you've got something that looks awesome for any kind of rocky landscape.

And if you're into really good looking stuff, make your own static grass applicator, buy a bucket of grass from sceneryexpress and you can make grass'n'rocks tables - just make sure you have green-ish paint where you add the grass, it doesn't look that great over brown paint for example.

Small dice rolling trays, area for books, reserves/deads, space for snacks and drinks, interchangeable terrain unless really well thought out theme that can stay the same but accommodate many different types of battles, I definitely second the power outlets thing as there's nothing more frustrating than having your phone/tablet die mid match when you have most of your books downloaded on there. Also second the good proper lighting thing and also the gaming area should have the ability to cool down or heat up appropriately as IMHO nothing is worse than sweating bullets during a game because it's a bazillion degrees in the play area.

morgoth wrote:
I don't know... all my tables are 4' x 6' and I never even considered making them 4' x 8' ... probably because I want to be able to arrange them however I want for Apoc.

We generally store our stuff on other tables that I have, cheap Ikea 2 meters x .6 , more than enough room too.

I would stick with 4' x 6' just because of Apoc, but if you don't intend to join them or anything, go 4'x8', less work and integrated shelf space on the sides.

With regards to surface, there's the lazy option, just buy 6'x4' printed mousepad cloth mats, they're about 50 bucks each.

Or there's the cheap option, just get free sand and a bucket of PVA, mix some of that, create some height variation by spreading it with your hands unevenly on the table, let dry, paint one color, drybrush another and you've got something that looks awesome for any kind of rocky landscape.

And if you're into really good looking stuff, make your own static grass applicator, buy a bucket of grass from sceneryexpress and you can make grass'n'rocks tables - just make sure you have green-ish paint where you add the grass, it doesn't look that great over brown paint for example.

8×4 is just an easy grab off the shelf size at most hardware stores.

I'd agree with the general thread.

1) 8'x4' or 6'x4' (in which case a side table is bonus) --- I'd say 8'x5' would be ideal if you had the room.
2) Well lit
3) I personally don't like captured tables, or tables with raised edges (interferes with line of sight stuff) so keep any ledge to a minimum.
4) I prefer standing tables w/ bar stools vs. lower tables...makes a big difference.
5) If it's not a mobile table, then a good sturdy shelf beneath for terrain is pretty excellent.

+Bathroom nearby.
+Mini fridge nearby.

I really like the power outlet idea, my only concern is the tripping hazard it could introduce, as the table outlets need their power from somewhere, and I don't think the machine spirits will be willing to help me.

The only solution I have for this is an immobile table, and running the power supply under the floor (not at home, rather at a FLGS) OR I suppose one could have a side table very nearby that has outlets and eliminates cords running next to the table.

I like the idea of a smooth tabletop for easy terrain placement and rearranging. A couple stores near me tried the awesome textured top look, but they end up being messy, and I'm too afraid the surface will scratch my physical rule books or my tablet. Plus, some of the random bumps/lumps are enough to conquer a 25mm base, making wobbly model syndrome a larger issue than it should be.

Introducing a couple new elements now,:

1) floor type, what do you prefer? carpet, tile, cushioned mats, cement?

2) room height (lets say flgs only, since most homes have 7'-8' ceilings) Would you rather play in an open atmosphere w a high ceiling like a warehouse (14'+), or something lower like the 8' ish range you'd play at home?

3) magnetic under-layer on the table, allowing players to magnetize their units to avoid unintentional falling, tipping, bumps, etc Good idea, bad idea? I know I'm crossing the practicality line.

Skip the magnets...not nearly enough people using that stuff to justify the work putting it in. Taller ceilings are better (if only for ventilation of smelly gamy bodies). Floor, the softer the better I'd guess. Anyone standing might prefer carpet?

I'd skip the textured table stuff - we live in the era of neoprene gaming mats and I think that's by far the best idea for rapid various surfaces using the same table.

Magnets are a really bad idea. One cell phone or electronic device goes haywire/broken and you can have a very angry person on your hands.

For flooring completely depends. Personally? Carpet that models won't get stuck or lost in. But if you are by messy people or have a lot of food/drinks around you need to expect some spills. Tile/concert is easy to clean up if an accident happens, but if it is a home environment not ideal. Also metal models and paint chips can be a factor for harder surfaces. I have never played on a rubber mat but seems like best of both worlds. I assume you mean like what they use in gymnastics or cheerleadi. In which case that. Eliminates the paint chips and still soft and comfortable.

I would say 8'x5' table with a 6'x4' playing surface, it's always useful to have a bit of extra room to put stuff down on.
Good lighting is always helpful.
For permentant tables I like shelves underneath for terrain storage too, maybe with some free space for bags.
Higher that your average table so not bending over too much.
If it is for a shop maybe an extension cord running to a floor plug socket under the table so people don't trip on the wire.
2'x2' tiles similar to realm of battle, but with more options.
A small edge to the board to keep the tiles together and keep dice from rolling off, but make sure it is a maximum of 10mm higher than the majority of the playing surface so it doesn't interfere with line of sight.
I like the idea of small markings on the edge to indicate setup too, especially for the diagonal one.
I wouldn't include magnets but if you really want to include them I would just make the surface a magnetic metal, people can put magnets on their bases if they want too just as easily as washers and then the bouard won't interfere with stuff.
I would say cheap flat carpeted floor, it is better if you are standing for long periods of time and it is better for dropped models. Maybe carpet tiles? No idea how easy they are to replace but it seems better than replacing the entire floor if there is a bad stain.
Ceiling height doesn't really matter to me, maybe normal room height, then you could have a strip light hanging down over the board.
Having room around the board is important too, you should be able to walk down at least one of the short edges so you don't have to go around 3 other tables to get to your opponent's side.
Also make sure you can keep it at a nice temperature, I don't want the place stinking of sweat, or be having to wear gloves while playing.

If you wanted something to hold magnetic models, I'd go with a metal underlayer.
But why bother? Models never fall off the table, they fall off the hills, buildings and whereever else.

Maybe have a 6'x4' which at either short end has a 1' fold out tray. Stow it underneath when not needed such as apoc, or fold it out when needed as a dead zone. Perhaps a similar thing with 6'' shelves on the long sides.

If you got the money, you can't beat http://www.geekchichq.com unless you are a carpenter with all the tools and expertise to make your own table that you wouldn't be ashamed of in the dining room or study of your house.

mightymconeshot wrote: Also metal models and paint chips can be a factor for harder surfaces. I have never played on a rubber mat but seems like best of both worlds. I assume you mean like what they use in gymnastics or cheerleadi. In which case that. Eliminates the paint chips and still soft and comfortable.

I would really like to avoid paint chips and dents. Sometimes the fall from a table will send a limb flying off too. Honestly, I meant rubber as in those small mats a cashier might stand on. Which, is silly. The flooring like you'd find in a gym though, that is a great idea. My only concern with that is the whole/dent the table will leave behind when you move the table. A small price to pay if it deters sore feet/legs for a few hours.

[quote=roflmajog
Higher that your average table so not bending over too much.
If it is for a shop maybe an extension cord running to a floor plug socket under the table so people don't trip on the wire.
2'x2' tiles similar to realm of battle, but with more options.
A small edge to the board to keep the tiles together and keep dice from rolling off, but make sure it is a maximum of 10mm higher than the majority of the playing surface so it doesn't interfere with line of sight.
I like the idea of small markings on the edge to indicate setup too, especially for the diagonal one.
I wouldn't include magnets but if you really want to include them I would just make the surface a magnetic metal, people can put magnets on their bases if they want too just as easily as washers and then the bouard won't interfere with stuff.
I would say cheap flat carpeted floor, it is better if you are standing for long periods of time and it is better for dropped models. Maybe carpet tiles? No idea how easy they are to replace but it seems better than replacing the entire floor if there is a bad stain.
Ceiling height doesn't really matter to me, maybe normal room height, then you could have a strip light hanging down over the board.
Having room around the board is important too, you should be able to walk down at least one of the short edges so you don't have to go around 3 other tables to get to your opponent's side.
Also make sure you can keep it at a nice temperature, I don't want the place stinking of sweat, or be having to wear gloves while playing.

I suggest trays/etc. to be placed very carefully - preferably on the short ends of the board (or completely under the table). Everyone knows that gamers who are fat or wear loose clothing. That means guts and shirts dragging models/items/dice etc. off the shelf or crushing/breaking stuff. Don't make a pull-out/roll-out tray because someone will bump into it and break/ruin everything.

4-5' is definitely enough for two opposing tables, but obviously the more space the better.

You don't need too much space between the short edges of the tables, you can be playing from one long board edge or the other with the space at the sides just to get from one to the other. Either make it wide enough for two people to comfortably stand side by side or small enough that it isn't comfortable to stand in the gap too long.

If you go for slide out or fold out trays make sure they have a good locking system so they don't drop everything on them on the ground when someone knocks it.