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[SWA] Equipment Upgrades. Anybody magnetized Weapons?  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
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Made in gb
Tough Tyrant Guard




England

I going to run a kill...brood...(?) of Tyranid Warriors in Shadow War. I don't have the rules yet (they sold out or something?

The grass is always greener if you water it.
 
   
Made in at
Privateer




Austria

No, at least for me it is not worth it.
I like to convert models and it is easier if you don't use magnets
the other thing is that you don't need so many models so it can be cheaper (considering work/time needed) to just build 2 models more instead of using magnets

one thing were it can be interesting is to use magnets for other equipment like extra ammo etc

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/04/07 17:50:48


Harry, bring this ring to Narnia or the Sith will take the Enterprise

M41 - Alternative Rules for Battles in the 41st Millennium (40k LRB Project) 
   
Made in ca
Ancient Venerable Black Templar Dreadnought





Canada

For magnets, I would give some suggestions from my own use of them:

1) Keep their use to the minimum on the model. I find durability is key and grabbing it and having bits fall off is no fun. I use two huge magnets, one for each arm on a dreadnaught and the custom load-out I never regret.
2) Recess the magnet ever so slightly and skim it over with filler and then sand flat when dry. You can then paint over everything and clear coat and you will not have any unpainted bits.
3) Sometimes the best choice is to just make that other model rather than use magnets, think about which would "pay-off" the best for you.
4) Very rarely, for tiny bits I used thin metal rod and have it contact a magnet buried in the model: sometimes the part may be too small and detail in the area you are afraid to wreck.
5) Try to have the polarity the same always, you may have another model you would like to swap mounted bits with.
6) Try to use a drill slightly undersize to the magnet so you get a "press-fit" which may work better than the crazy glue you used to keep the magnet in.
7) When pressing the magnet in the hole with glue, ensure you have drilled a vent hole in the back (within the body of the model) so it is not a trapped air pocket.

Good luck.

A revolution is an idea which has found its bayonets.
Napoleon Bonaparte

 
   
Made in us
Privateer





The Land of Big, Stompy Robots

I did for my GSC leader. That way I can upgrade his weapons really easily. The rest of the cult is just glued like normal.

New Career Time? 
   
Made in au
Infiltrating Broodlord





yeah using a Warrior list... magnetic could be the way to go.. if you don't have warriors of various arm layouts..

The rules for the Killteam can be found here
https://www.warhammer-community.com/2017/04/01/shadow-war-armageddon-pre-order-and-downloads/

   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





I'm picking up a box of warriors to use. I've never played nids so I thought this could be fun. Are they are to magnetize?
   
Made in au
Infiltrating Broodlord





Thor0298 wrote:
I'm picking up a box of warriors to use. I've never played nids so I thought this could be fun. Are they are to magnetize?


They are really small connections for their arms.. it is doable.. but you may better off using pinning instead of magnets

I'm actually liking the Ravener rules.. you get first turn and it just melts people




Automatically Appended Next Post:
So I personally had a look at a Warrior list based on what models I own..

Dam Warriors are pricey.. you are only gonna have 3 duders at the start unless you don't take heavy weapon then 4.. then not gonna recruit more unless you burn promethean

What I got

Tyranid Alpha 250
Deathspitter 45
Extended Carapase 15
Adrenal Glands 10

Tyranid Warrior 200
Deathspitter 45
Extended Carapase 15
Adrenal Glands 10

Tyranid Gun-Beast 225
Venom Cannon 165
Extended Carapace 15

Total 995



This message was edited 5 times. Last update was at 2017/04/10 03:57:50


 
   
Made in ca
Ancient Venerable Black Templar Dreadnought





Canada

Yeah, SWA will give a bit of a spike to some kit sales.
I was looking at those Tyranid warriors as well: they look like good fun terrorizing Imperial units (I largely play Imperial).
I need to get the kit to see how challenging it would be.
Things get harder when a couple arms interconnect and the shoulders are ball sockets.
I would probably put big magnets in the shoulder sockets, glue the joining hands together for the big guns they have and clamping at the shoulder in place.

A revolution is an idea which has found its bayonets.
Napoleon Bonaparte

 
   
Made in gb
[DCM]
Calculating Commissar





Gone-to-ground in the craters of Coventry

 Talizvar wrote:
I would probably put big magnets in the shoulder sockets, glue the joining hands together for the big guns they have and clamping at the shoulder in place.
This is usually the best way to do magnets on models like this.
If you can have a two-part model, with both arms as a single piece, keeping it in place when fitted is easier.
Big shoulder magnets means you can use smaller magnets in the arms.

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Made in gb
Tough Tyrant Guard




England

Given the load outs, I could just swap in new warrior models as and when I need them...I have a few laying around....

Or buy DWOK. GSC seem more appropriate to SWA than hulking Tyranidish warriors.

1. Lots of models for SWA!

2. A boardgame in it''s own right!

3. Can use them with 40k nods. .although starting a new army so close to 8th....hmm?

Derailing my own thread...

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2017/04/10 21:43:42


The grass is always greener if you water it.
 
   
Made in ca
Ancient Venerable Black Templar Dreadnought





Canada

 Skinnereal wrote:
 Talizvar wrote:
I would probably put big magnets in the shoulder sockets, glue the joining hands together for the big guns they have and clamping at the shoulder in place.
This is usually the best way to do magnets on models like this.
If you can have a two-part model, with both arms as a single piece, keeping it in place when fitted is easier.
Big shoulder magnets means you can use smaller magnets in the arms.
I probably should have finished with "until dry" but I am glad that the plan was conveyed correctly.
I tend to put a magnet in the main body of a model that is as large as possible.
I would be tempted to measure the bottom of socket to bottom of socket distance across the shoulder and have a spacer or block 1/16" smaller distance to ensure a tight fit, nevermind what the magnets would do.
I like to try to sneak-in a 3-point join if I can to reduce the movement of the limb(s) which can be done with extra "feeder tubes" on Tyranid models.

A revolution is an idea which has found its bayonets.
Napoleon Bonaparte

 
   
 
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