Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Some resin water effect on my LoC

Grand blending! The purple river is mystical.

 r3n3g8b0y wrote:
Grand blending! The purple river is mystical.

Thanks

Ooh. That's cool. Wonder what that same effect would translate well for a bloody river instead of mystical.

 chimeara wrote:
Ooh. That's cool. Wonder what that same effect would translate well for a bloody river instead of mystical.

Looks great in blood too

You do this effect well. I loved it on your Knights and love the purple here. Have you ever tried the Woodland Scenics water effect? It's the only version available in brick and mortars where I live.

I have some experience with woodland scenics "realistic water". It is a pour on product.

Protip 1. NEVER SHAKE. This adds bubbles which are a pain to get rid of.

Protip 2. The product never fully hardens so do not put anything heavy on it. It will deform the finish.

Protip 3. The product is self healing, so if you did mar the surface, you can resurface it with more product and the seam won't show.

Protip 4. The product shrinks when setting, so it WILL pull away from the form AND cup where it meets adjacent surfaces due to surface tension. You can fix this to a degree by filling the cupped surfaces after the base layer cures. As you can cut and "heal" the surfaces, you can try to square edges this way.

Protip 5. Don't exceed the amount of thickness that they recommend, otherwise it won't cure properly.

Protip 6. If you are impatient and did that anyways, there are two fixes for cloudiness (not fully cured).

Solution 1. Wait. It will take forever, but it might clear up on its own.

Solution 2. Cut it away and resurface.

Protip 7: You can tint this with inks / paints. If you need multiple layers, it is a pain to match colors though.

Protip 8. Secret Weapons water is the same stuff, just more expensive

Thanks for the information. This is super helpful.

 keezus wrote:
I have some experience with woodland scenics "realistic water". It is a pour on product.

Protip 1. NEVER SHAKE. This adds bubbles which are a pain to get rid of.

Protip 2. The product never fully hardens so do not put anything heavy on it. It will deform the finish.

Protip 3. The product is self healing, so if you did mar the surface, you can resurface it with more product and the seam won't show.

Protip 4. The product shrinks when setting, so it WILL pull away from the form AND cup where it meets adjacent surfaces due to surface tension. You can fix this to a degree by filling the cupped surfaces after the base layer cures. As you can cut and "heal" the surfaces, you can try to square edges this way.

Protip 5. Don't exceed the amount of thickness that they recommend, otherwise it won't cure properly.

Protip 6. If you are impatient and did that anyways, there are two fixes for cloudiness (not fully cured).

Solution 1. Wait. It will take forever, but it might clear up on its own.

Solution 2. Cut it away and resurface.

Protip 7: You can tint this with inks / paints. If you need multiple layers, it is a pain to match colors though.

Protip 8. Secret Weapons water is the same stuff, just more expensive

 keezus wrote:
I have some experience with woodland scenics "realistic water". It is a pour on product.

Protip 1. NEVER SHAKE. This adds bubbles which are a pain to get rid of.

Protip 2. The product never fully hardens so do not put anything heavy on it. It will deform the finish.

Protip 3. The product is self healing, so if you did mar the surface, you can resurface it with more product and the seam won't show.

Protip 4. The product shrinks when setting, so it WILL pull away from the form AND cup where it meets adjacent surfaces due to surface tension. You can fix this to a degree by filling the cupped surfaces after the base layer cures. As you can cut and "heal" the surfaces, you can try to square edges this way.

Protip 5. Don't exceed the amount of thickness that they recommend, otherwise it won't cure properly.

Protip 6. If you are impatient and did that anyways, there are two fixes for cloudiness (not fully cured).

Solution 1. Wait. It will take forever, but it might clear up on its own.

Solution 2. Cut it away and resurface.

Protip 7: You can tint this with inks / paints. If you need multiple layers, it is a pain to match colors though.

Protip 8. Secret Weapons water is the same stuff, just more expensive

I agree with all of this. I moved to resin to get a harder finish. I get mine on eBay.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

Groo_The_Wanderer wrote:
You do this effect well. I loved it on your Knights and love the purple here. Have you ever tried the Woodland Scenics water effect? It's the only version available in brick and mortars where I live.

Thanks! You can see more on my instagram seraphim.016 including a short how to video..

I personally don't like the instant pour water effect products. I used it in some models about 8 years ago on models I still have and it has all gone cloudy.

 S.e.r.a.p.h.i.m wrote:

I agree with all of this. I moved to resin to get a harder finish. I get mine on eBay.

I also have Envirotex Lite, but I haven't used it yet, as I haven't found a good way to measure out the two portions. Do you have any suggestions for this?

 keezus wrote:

 S.e.r.a.p.h.i.m wrote:

I agree with all of this. I moved to resin to get a harder finish. I get mine on eBay.

I also have Envirotex Lite, but I haven't used it yet, as I haven't found a good way to measure out the two portions. Do you have any suggestions for this?

mine came with syringes - makes it easy to measure quantities - maybe medicinal measuring cups? you could also use a clear plastic (picnic/bbq) cup and measure a line on the side and then use it to measure 1 pour and 2 pours of each mixture?