Switch Theme:

Gem paint on lager models?  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in no
Liche Priest Hierophant





Bergen

How do the teqnical gem paint work on larger models? Are there any examples, and how do you work them?

   
Made in us
The Marine Standing Behind Marneus Calgar





Upstate, New York

I have some limited experience with them. I used the gloss blue over black for a chitin look on my zoat. Specifically on this gun/gear. Basically if you want to use a glaze + gloss coat, they are that in one paint. Need to be thinned out a bit IMHO.



YMMV. hopefully someone with more skill and more sober will chime in with some relevant advice.

   
Made in ca
Dakka Veteran





Here's a couple of pics of one of my Knights I did some work on the shoulders. The flames are white with Pearl white accents, then light bluegrey with runefang highlights. The pad is a very dark grey, and then I hit the whole thing with Green Gemstone paint. Came out tinting the flames green and giving the whole pad a lacquered look on the dark grey.

[Thumb - IMG_20160906_174349.jpg]

[Thumb - IMG_20160907_003551.jpg]

   
Made in us
Blood-Raging Khorne Berserker





Pittsburgh, PA

I use the green to paint the coils on all my plasma guns. As long as you put a nice bright silver underneath (Stormhost Silver) it works very well for larger areas. Put it on thick, don't thin it out. It's very bright and glossy after it dries, and thinning it or putting it over any other paint besides bright silver totally defeats that
   
Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





Gem paints, like all clears, are much harder to get right on large surfaces (unless you have an airbrush handy). I haven't spent a lot of time with GW gems because I prefer Tamiya's clears, but the basic behaviour is the same, the only one that's a bit different is if you use enamel clears because they have a much slower drying time so they don't have the same problems acrylic clears do.

On small surfaces it's much easier to get a smooth coat and any inconsistencies don't stand out. On big surfaces it's much trickier.

My advice is use a nice large brush with soft bristles, as wide as you can go, try and load it with enough paint to do one whole panel in one hit to avoid having to go back and forth from your palette (any time the paint sits on the surface it's drying and partially dried paint is the enemy). Of course if you go too far and overload the brush that can also be hard to fix, so don't go too overboard.

Think less about "brushing" the paint on and more about "mopping" it on.

If it's really large you might consider doing 1 panel at a time. This is to avoid accidentally going over partially dried areas which will create tide marks.

Another approach is almost the polar opposite, try and build it up gradually and hope the inconsistencies get hidden by the layers. Personally I haven't had much luck with this approach, but maybe someone who uses that method can chime in.

If you do have an airbrush it's much easier, just build it up gradually and you should be fine. It's best to airbrush clears over a preshaded part.

This message was edited 4 times. Last update was at 2017/11/23 06:40:17


 
   
Made in gb
Keeper of the Holy Orb of Antioch





avoiding the lorax on Crion

I agree on silver Base.

It pops nicely when you do that for best effect.
Never used on a large large scale but I'd agree with basing silver, brightest metal you got.

Lay it on thicker, it needs it for best effect.

I've used all 3 Gw versions.
Always give it a shake before you use it and be careful on varnishing etc. It seems to be a more delicate paint when dried than the other types.

Sgt. Vanden - OOC Hey, that was your doing. I didn't choose to fly in the "Dongerprise'.

"May the odds be ever in your favour"

Hybrid Son Of Oxayotl wrote:
I have no clue how Dakka's moderation work. I expect it involves throwing a lot of d100 and looking at many random tables.

FudgeDumper - It could be that you are just so uncomfortable with the idea of your chapters primarch having his way with a docile tyranid spore cyst, that you must deny they have any feelings at all.  
   
Made in no
Liche Priest Hierophant





Bergen

 Nevelon wrote:
I have some limited experience with them. I used the gloss blue over black for a chitin look on my zoat. Specifically on this gun/gear. Basically if you want to use a glaze + gloss coat, they are that in one paint. Need to be thinned out a bit IMHO.



YMMV. hopefully someone with more skill and more sober will chime in with some relevant advice.


I can't really see the effect, sorry.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Sauragnmon wrote:
Here's a couple of pics of one of my Knights I did some work on the shoulders. The flames are white with Pearl white accents, then light bluegrey with runefang highlights. The pad is a very dark grey, and then I hit the whole thing with Green Gemstone paint. Came out tinting the flames green and giving the whole pad a lacquered look on the dark grey.



Hmmm... thanks. But I think it looks a bit odd. Perhaps that is just the camera? Do you like how it looks IRL?


Automatically Appended Next Post:
AllSeeingSkink wrote:
Gem paints, like all clears, are much harder to get right on large surfaces (unless you have an airbrush handy). I haven't spent a lot of time with GW gems because I prefer Tamiya's clears, but the basic behaviour is the same, the only one that's a bit different is if you use enamel clears because they have a much slower drying time so they don't have the same problems acrylic clears do.

On small surfaces it's much easier to get a smooth coat and any inconsistencies don't stand out. On big surfaces it's much trickier.

My advice is use a nice large brush with soft bristles, as wide as you can go, try and load it with enough paint to do one whole panel in one hit to avoid having to go back and forth from your palette (any time the paint sits on the surface it's drying and partially dried paint is the enemy). Of course if you go too far and overload the brush that can also be hard to fix, so don't go too overboard.

Think less about "brushing" the paint on and more about "mopping" it on.

If it's really large you might consider doing 1 panel at a time. This is to avoid accidentally going over partially dried areas which will create tide marks.

Another approach is almost the polar opposite, try and build it up gradually and hope the inconsistencies get hidden by the layers. Personally I haven't had much luck with this approach, but maybe someone who uses that method can chime in.

If you do have an airbrush it's much easier, just build it up gradually and you should be fine. It's best to airbrush clears over a preshaded part.


Ultromatly I am planning on painting 1 kitbashed Neuronthrope, and 3 kit bashed biovores. Perhaps an exoshrne. Probably some spore mines. I am picturing painting the model black and the scrapace red. The red part would be the one painted with gem.

But I am talking rather big surfaces here. It sounds like there is no way to make it look good? If I atemt it I would asume I would need to put gold underneath it instead of silver?

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2017/11/23 19:47:03


   
Made in ca
Dakka Veteran





I love how it looks IRL, it's a little personalization on that specific knight of my small household - I've got three of them, and each are different in design to a degree.
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: