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2017/11/23 23:27:04
Subject: Forge World Resin: How do you get it to stay together?
Been playing with the excellence that is resin. My modeling glue that works great for plastic doesn't even pretend to stick to the resin. I have used green stuff to hold together some of my Kriegers, and that works better, but that is time consuming.
So, what do you all use to keep resin miniatures assembled? Special glue?
You say Fiery Crash! I say Dynamic Entry!
*Increases Game Point Limit by 100*: Tau get two Crisis Suits and a Firewarrior. Imperial Guard get two infantry companies, artillery support, and APCs.
2017/11/23 23:29:54
Subject: Forge World Resin: How do you get it to stay together?
If you mean standard plastic glue (eg the kind sold by GW) then it won't work on resin as plastic glue works by melting plastic, then evaporating which causes the plastic to harden again.
For resin treat it like metal, so you want a good solid superglue.
1) Wash the resin in warm lightly soapy water then rinse clean. This removes any mould release residue that is on the resin which can reduce the ability of glues and primers (paint) from sticking properly.
2) Clean the surfaces to be joined, ensuring that they have a flush smooth joining area.
3) Score the joining area with a blade; this increases the surface area of the join surface (since superglues work by bonding between two surfaces).
4) Apply superglue and press the two parts together and hold till cured.
Note you can use a VERY tiny bit of greenstuff which will cure fast and bond the two surfaces when exposed to superglue. I really do mean a tiny bit, a scraping, its only there to provide a tiny fast join. If you put too much you will have greenstuff too much between the two surfaces and it will be a weak point that will easily break.
5) For large parts remember that you can pin parts. This can help secure large parts together - google pinning and you should find loads of guides
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/11/24 00:18:26
when you say modelling glue do you mean the plastic cement types? if so that will do nothing for resin (or metal) as it works by melting the to components together.
when I've built forge world models superglue works fine, although on some of the larger models like super heavies or titans you may need to pin them as well
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2017/11/23 23:50:15
Subject: Re:Forge World Resin: How do you get it to stay together?
Clean the resin with dish soap or a degreaser. Scrape or sand the contact point to aid adhesion (wear a mask, don't inhale any of it - resin dust is bad). Use super glue (I prefer Loctite gel) or two-part epoxy.
2017/11/24 00:02:58
Subject: Forge World Resin: How do you get it to stay together?
Forge World did a Youtube video giving the basics on assembling and preparing a resin kit.
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2017/11/24 00:36:29
Subject: Forge World Resin: How do you get it to stay together?
if you are using superglue, is it new or old? old superglue loses it stickiness. buy some new superglue.
the only other glue you can use is epoxy resin glue but as it isn't instant you'll have to find a way to keep it in place while the glue sets.
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2017/11/24 00:43:51
Subject: Forge World Resin: How do you get it to stay together?
bubber wrote: the only other glue you can use is epoxy resin glue but as it isn't instant you'll have to find a way to keep it in place while the glue sets.
My tactic with 5 minute epoxy is to start a timer when I start mixing it, apply it to the model but then wait until about 3 to 4 minutes from when I started mixing before pushing the joint together, then I just have to hold it for a minute or so. Of course you want to make sure no stress is applied to the joint for a good few minutes after that as well, but most of the time I don't need to construct a holder.
If you mix the glue for 1 minute and then straight away try and smoosh the parts together you'll obviously have to hold them for several minutes before the glue hardens.
2017/11/24 00:49:18
Subject: Forge World Resin: How do you get it to stay together?
Yeah I've been using the Testors model glue which melts plastic together.
I did actually wash the models, so the next step (per the advice in this thread) will be to move on to super glue, as I have not tried that yet.
It will be REALLY nice having Kriegers that don't collapse in a slight breeze.
Thank you much for the information people!
You say Fiery Crash! I say Dynamic Entry!
*Increases Game Point Limit by 100*: Tau get two Crisis Suits and a Firewarrior. Imperial Guard get two infantry companies, artillery support, and APCs.
2017/11/24 01:12:14
Subject: Forge World Resin: How do you get it to stay together?
I'm going to parrot either heavy superglue (such as Hobby Lobby Extreme Power Thick), or an epoxy. Do definitely make sure you scrub the parts, though. If you want a super solid hold, do some pinning as well.
I tend to put small blop of greenstuff(or pin in case of big heavy parts) and then super glue. Works so far. Problem being more of misalignigning pieces as once glue is set it's tough to get separated again
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2017/11/24 09:40:36
Subject: Forge World Resin: How do you get it to stay together?
tneva82 wrote: I tend to put small blop of greenstuff(or pin in case of big heavy parts) and then super glue. Works so far. Problem being more of misalignigning pieces as once glue is set it's tough to get separated again
Note greenstuff and superglue isn't producing a stronger bond, if anything the greenstuff can be a weak point in the bonding as if you use too much its a layer between the two surfaces (so then the bond is only as strong as cured greenstuff).
Greenstuff in a join with superglue is all about speed of curing. Especially with metals you can find yourself holding bits together for ages before some superglues cure enough to hold together on their own. If its something super spiky then its a nightmare for your fingers; so a tiny tiny tiny bit of greenstuff acts basically like a quick-cure lock that holds the parts together whilst the remainder of the superglue cures at a normal speed.
tneva82 wrote: I tend to put small blop of greenstuff(or pin in case of big heavy parts) and then super glue. Works so far. Problem being more of misalignigning pieces as once glue is set it's tough to get separated again
Note greenstuff and superglue isn't producing a stronger bond, if anything the greenstuff can be a weak point in the bonding as if you use too much its a layer between the two surfaces (so then the bond is only as strong as cured greenstuff).
Greenstuff in a join with superglue is all about speed of curing. Especially with metals you can find yourself holding bits together for ages before some superglues cure enough to hold together on their own. If its something super spiky then its a nightmare for your fingers; so a tiny tiny tiny bit of greenstuff acts basically like a quick-cure lock that holds the parts together whilst the remainder of the superglue cures at a normal speed.
tneva82 wrote: I tend to put small blop of greenstuff(or pin in case of big heavy parts) and then super glue. Works so far. Problem being more of misalignigning pieces as once glue is set it's tough to get separated again
Note greenstuff and superglue isn't producing a stronger bond, if anything the greenstuff can be a weak point in the bonding as if you use too much its a layer between the two surfaces (so then the bond is only as strong as cured greenstuff).
Greenstuff in a join with superglue is all about speed of curing. Especially with metals you can find yourself holding bits together for ages before some superglues cure enough to hold together on their own. If its something super spiky then its a nightmare for your fingers; so a tiny tiny tiny bit of greenstuff acts basically like a quick-cure lock that holds the parts together whilst the remainder of the superglue cures at a normal speed.
That damned Ork big-boss from 3e comes to mind...
M.
It's even worse when you use runny superglues and use a bit too much. In the distant past when I started I'd have more glue on my fingers than on the model by the end! Even worse when you go to pull your fingers off and --- the two parts are not sealed togetehr but ARE glued to your fingers
tneva82 wrote: I tend to put small blop of greenstuff(or pin in case of big heavy parts) and then super glue. Works so far. Problem being more of misalignigning pieces as once glue is set it's tough to get separated again
Note greenstuff and superglue isn't producing a stronger bond, if anything the greenstuff can be a weak point in the bonding as if you use too much its a layer between the two surfaces (so then the bond is only as strong as cured greenstuff).
Greenstuff in a join with superglue is all about speed of curing. Especially with metals you can find yourself holding bits together for ages before some superglues cure enough to hold together on their own. If its something super spiky then its a nightmare for your fingers; so a tiny tiny tiny bit of greenstuff acts basically like a quick-cure lock that holds the parts together whilst the remainder of the superglue cures at a normal speed.
That damned Ork big-boss from 3e comes to mind...
M.
It's even worse when you use runny superglues and use a bit too much. In the distant past when I started I'd have more glue on my fingers than on the model by the end! Even worse when you go to pull your fingers off and --- the two parts are not sealed togetehr but ARE glued to your fingers
Yeah use tiny amounts of superglue!
Sometimes I still have nightmares about that goddamned thing...
Only thing that came close to as much suck was the 6th edition Bretonnian BSB - hollow plastic horse, solid metal man, solid metal CHUNK of a damn banner at the top of a lever-arm... *seething*
On the upside, that Ork boss is how I learned what pinning is.
Gorilla Glue has been working out nicely for me. It was interesting having to get used to glue that does not "insta-dry" (seriously, Testor's model glue on plastic takes maybe three seconds for a decent bind.) But again, it is working well, and I am happy.
You say Fiery Crash! I say Dynamic Entry!
*Increases Game Point Limit by 100*: Tau get two Crisis Suits and a Firewarrior. Imperial Guard get two infantry companies, artillery support, and APCs.
2017/12/28 20:05:14
Subject: Forge World Resin: How do you get it to stay together?
bubber wrote: the only other glue you can use is epoxy resin glue but as it isn't instant you'll have to find a way to keep it in place while the glue sets.
My tactic with 5 minute epoxy is to start a timer when I start mixing it, apply it to the model but then wait until about 3 to 4 minutes from when I started mixing before pushing the joint together, then I just have to hold it for a minute or so. Of course you want to make sure no stress is applied to the joint for a good few minutes after that as well, but most of the time I don't need to construct a holder.
If you mix the glue for 1 minute and then straight away try and smoosh the parts together you'll obviously have to hold them for several minutes before the glue hardens.
Well now I feel like an idiot because when I use two part epoxy glue, I've been sitting there at my desk holding it together LOL
4th company 3000pts
3rd Navy drop Command 3000pts air cavalry
117th tank company 5500pts
2000pts 
