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No, I’m not after a lap dance from a War hound Titan...

Sorry if this has been asked before, but has anyone got any tips on stripping forgeworld resin?

Simple Green, Purple Power or SuperClean

 General Kroll wrote:
No, I’m not after a lap dance from a War hound Titan...

How dare you sir. How dare you. I was all ready to make a joke about your thread title but then I click on your message and see that you have foiled my plans. Lol.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 Todosi wrote:
Simple Green, Purple Power or SuperClean

Simple Green has worked well for me with plastic and resin.

Apparently simple green had been altered so your mileage may very

super clean and purple power should work.

I find 70% alcohol and a toothbrush work well, just need to moisturise your fingers afterwards or wear gloves

I dont like iso for resin.

leave it in too long and it will make it brittle.

 Desubot wrote:
I dont like iso for resin.

leave it in too long and it will make it brittle.

Is isopropanol same thing or similar you use to fire up camping cooker? Some sort of alcohol anyway. Which I use and like. Leave it too long? How long is that? The stuff I have I soaked it like hallf a minute and started rubbing and the paint started going on. Quick dip more occasionally and the paint just flew out of the resin. No change in composition of material that I can see nor loss of details.

Iso is rubbing alcohol.

camp fire cook fuel and space heater fuel sounds like kerosene which along with gasoline can be used to thin laqure? or oil paints.

though id rather not

Oh sorry yeah should mention this was over night it came out brittle and the texture changed a bit. it could be the batch or older resin that may do that. but iso is my go to for plastics

Do NOT use alcohol for stripping resin. It will melt and get all squishy.

Thanks for the tips so far.

I’m in Britain, so not sure what our equivilant of simple green etc is. I’ve used dettol on plastic kits, anyone tried that?

Brake Fluid. I have a group of Krieg models I was stripping, they sat in the brake fluid for a week or so, nothing happened to the models themselves.

Really any of the purple industrial degreasers you can find at a hardware store will work.

 General Kroll wrote:
Thanks for the tips so far.

I’m in Britain, so not sure what our equivilant of simple green etc is. I’ve used dettol on plastic kits, anyone tried that?

I've seen Brits post about something called "Fairy Power" or somesuch in these types of threads when Simple Green or Castrol Superclean was brought up over the years as the UK equivalent. I've never tried it myself being over in the US but that's what usually gets mentioned as same for resin and plastic.

Sauragnmon wrote:
Brake Fluid. I have a group of Krieg models I was stripping, they sat in the brake fluid for a week or so, nothing happened to the models themselves.

Iv heard the exact opposite

dot3 break fluid working fine on plastic but melting resin.

If all else fails i suggest getting pour sprue, spray priming it and testing your various strippers

i hear dettrol should work. but generally you are looking for degreasers.

Sauragnmon wrote:
Brake Fluid. I have a group of Krieg models I was stripping, they sat in the brake fluid for a week or so, nothing happened to the models themselves.

Same here. I just left them for a few hours and there was no damage to the models albeit that was about 4-5 years ago and I don't know if the resin FW uses has changed in the meantime. On an interesting note, I tested out the safety on an extra contemptor foot (it was just in my bag when I ordered the original Contemptor from FW upon it's initial release) with no issues overnight and decided to keep it in the brake fluid afterwards to see long term. For the next month or two of continual bath, I'd check on it regularly and saw that nothing happened and I frankly just forgot about it when I stopped painting/stripping/buying regularly during the unbalanced mess of an era that was 6th/7th editions. When I rediscovered it maybe two years later, there was some cracking and softness in the resin and a minor loss of detail. I'd personally feel confident removing paint that way again in the short term but I wouldn't recommend long term baths in it. As always, test a piece you can potentially lose (like a bit of the sprue) first in case they changed the formula.

Strongly strongly against dettol for FW resin; it melts something awful in <1 hr for fine detail.

 malamis wrote:
Strongly strongly against dettol for FW resin; it melts something awful in <1 hr for fine detail.

Obvious followup question then is how long you need to have it there? The stuff I used from the moment I put it in liquid(not dettol mind you) to when I washed it in sink after stripping paint it took like 10 minutes in case of big piece like warhound titans legs.

Oh and <1h how long? 30 min? 40? 50?

I've cleaned FW resin with isopropanol and I cannot recommend it. It makes the resin rubbery and prone to fracturing. It also seeps into the material under prolonged exposure, and might lead to the resin swelling or warping.

The good news is that the resin eventually dries out/ hardens, but that might take a couple of weeks.

I really wish I knew of a product that's locally available to me in Norway that would work, so if anyone in Scandinavia has any tips, I'd really appreciate it (since we mostly have the same chains and products here).

Zingraff - brake fluid is available everywhere, because brakes don't suddenly use another design in Norway.

Sounds like a ymmv kind of thing. Could be risky business.

I use Blue Wolf cleaner, but it might be a local product. Works just as good and the green and purple ones. Dot 3 is really only good for plastic and metal. I used Dot 3 on some Failcast Incubi once and it really messed them up.

Sauragnmon wrote:
Zingraff - brake fluid is available everywhere, because brakes don't suddenly use another design in Norway.

Well yes, I expect you'd be able to find brake fluid anywhere in Norway, and the closest auto parts shop is less than 5 km from where I work. I was thinking I should try to get a product similar to Simple Green or Super Clean. I keep reading I shouldn't use brake fluid because of the risks involved, and if it's anything like isopropanol then I'd rather not use it.

A general automotive degreaser should work - I didn't have any issues with finecast (ugh) when I used Super Clean to strip it.

Oven cleaning sprays/foams work well on some things, but I'm not sure about resin (they're also heavy duty degreasers, etc.).

I've done some research. Aside from water, the primary ingredients in Simple Green appears to be Ethoxylated Alcohol (CAS Number 68439-46-3) at less than 5% and Sodium Citrate (CAS Number 68-04-2) also at about 5%.

The biodegradable degreasers sold at the (originally Swedish) auto parts chain Biltema, tend to contain Ethoxylated Alcohol (CAS Number 68439-46-3), in one product as much as 10%. I haven't been able to find a product that contains both the ethoxylated alcohol and sodium citrate, as none of the products sold by Biltema appear to contain any sodium citrate (which is called natriumsitrat in Norway).

It turns out sodium citrate is mostly used as a food additive, as it's a mildly acidic salt with a lemony taste. I assume it's used in Simple Green due to it's ability to dissolve calcification left by hard water, it is after all intended as a household cleaner, and I know from experience that citric acid or lemon juice is often used for cleaning in Denmark, where the tap water tends to be very hard. It might also be used to mask the smell of the other chemicals.

I'm tempted to try out the solution which contains the largest amount of ethoxylated alcohol and see what happens to an otherwise ruined figure. I don't expect citric acid to do anything towards stripping paint from resin, but the ethoxylated alcohol might work. I doubt the other ingredients in Simple Green listed at <1% has much to do with it.

Citrate sounds like it would be that lemon smell for most cleaners so its probably the alcohol that is doing the stripping.

i know someone else did a full chemical breakdown of a lot of the common strippers but i dont recall where i saw that.

 General Kroll wrote:
Thanks for the tips so far.

I’m in Britain, so not sure what our equivilant of simple green etc is. I’ve used dettol on plastic kits, anyone tried that?

FW told me NOT to use dettol on resin. I have a long email they sent for when it is hard to get the mould release off the resin. I will see if I can find it and add it to this thread.

I have found that the temperature of the water is the key. I turn the hot water on and make it as hot as I can stand it and scrub it with dish soap and a toothbrush. The heat is what makes the best results in my experience. Scrubbing is not as important as the temp.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Please try a the following hobby tip and if the possessed miniature in question still resists your paint then get back in touch so we can sort it out for you.

I would not recommend using dettol or strong decreasing agents unless you have a small piece of resin to test first as the chemicals in dettol and other cleaning agents can effect the resin parts in an undesired way.

Peel/flake or clean away any paint that will not stick by using an old toothbrush, cocktail stick and cloth.
Clean the parts using hot water rather than warm water, using strong washing up liquid or a product called non-granulated swafega, scrub the parts rinsing off the detergent in hot water and leave to air dry.
using a preferred matt varnish (purity seal) spray a thin coat over the entire model (leaving to dry fully before base coating).
We recommend using a black or white surface primer from a spray can rather than an airbrush or hand painted on the primer.
For best results using the same sealing spray between multiple layers of primer will help seal the miniature fully.
If the model still flakes or still will not hold any paint at all please get back in touch.
That is the content of the email...

tneva82 wrote:

 malamis wrote:
Strongly strongly against dettol for FW resin; it melts something awful in <1 hr for fine detail.

Obvious followup question then is how long you need to have it there? The stuff I used from the moment I put it in liquid(not dettol mind you) to when I washed it in sink after stripping paint it took like 10 minutes in case of big piece like warhound titans legs.

Oh and <1h how long? 30 min? 40? 50?

The shortest time in dettol for FW to 'damaged' I found was 20 minutes - or one episode of southpark since that's how I timed it. In that specific case it was the turbine block from a dreadnought drop pod, which had the piping partially peel off, and the ribbing of the cables melt. I also tried something similar with the 'helmet' of the original mk4 venerable dreadnought, which caused the thing to bulge so badly that I couldn't get it out of the socket afterwards.

After that, no forgeworld + dettol for me. :|

 Arminius_Warbringer wrote:

 General Kroll wrote:
Thanks for the tips so far.

I’m in Britain, so not sure what our equivilant of simple green etc is. I’ve used dettol on plastic kits, anyone tried that?

FW told me NOT to use dettol on resin. I have a long email they sent for when it is hard to get the mould release off the resin. I will see if I can find it and add it to this thread.

I have found that the temperature of the water is the key. I turn the hot water on and make it as hot as I can stand it and scrub it with dish soap and a toothbrush. The heat is what makes the best results in my experience. Scrubbing is not as important as the temp.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Please try a the following hobby tip and if the possessed miniature in question still resists your paint then get back in touch so we can sort it out for you.

I would not recommend using dettol or strong decreasing agents unless you have a small piece of resin to test first as the chemicals in dettol and other cleaning agents can effect the resin parts in an undesired way.

Peel/flake or clean away any paint that will not stick by using an old toothbrush, cocktail stick and cloth.
Clean the parts using hot water rather than warm water, using strong washing up liquid or a product called non-granulated swafega, scrub the parts rinsing off the detergent in hot water and leave to air dry.
using a preferred matt varnish (purity seal) spray a thin coat over the entire model (leaving to dry fully before base coating).
We recommend using a black or white surface primer from a spray can rather than an airbrush or hand painted on the primer.
For best results using the same sealing spray between multiple layers of primer will help seal the miniature fully.
If the model still flakes or still will not hold any paint at all please get back in touch.
That is the content of the email...

Thanks, that’s really helpful