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Made in de
Focused Dark Angels Land Raider Pilot




Germany

Hey there!

I've been expanding and repainting my army lately.
This is not my whole collection (didn't want to bore you with thousands of drones and fire warriors or old and badly painted models )

Feel free to comment and tell me what you think!





















This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2017/12/27 16:33:50


 
   
Made in au
Deadshot Weapon Moderati





Newcastle NSW

Very nice
What paints did you use?

The Four Winds Tribe has returned to claim the Underhive for House Escher


Deathwatch Kill Team: W5 D0 L1
 
   
Made in us
Legendary Dogfighter





McAllen, TX

Quite solid paint scheme, only thing I can think that’ll help is some edge highlights, especially on the charadon granite areas, perhaps with stormvermin fur; also decal work on vehicles and suits, you can check out my gallery for examples of where and which decal.

Normally I would also suggest muzzle and exhaust powder work, but it’s tau, I’d imagine they have clean energy rather than like the imperium or orks.
   
Made in de
Focused Dark Angels Land Raider Pilot




Germany

Rolsheen wrote:Very nice
What paints did you use?


Thanks
I used Vallejo and GW airbrush paints mostly.

Big Mac wrote:Quite solid paint scheme, only thing I can think that’ll help is some edge highlights, especially on the charadon granite areas, perhaps with stormvermin fur; also decal work on vehicles and suits, you can check out my gallery for examples of where and which decal.

Normally I would also suggest muzzle and exhaust powder work, but it’s tau, I’d imagine they have clean energy rather than like the imperium or orks.


not sure what you mean by charadon granite to be honest :-/ Some more edgehighlights will follow (had no more time when I left for christmas )
I agree on the muzzle, I don't think energy weapons will produce any dust.

PS: exchanged the pictures with ones from my own website for higher resolution.
   
Made in us
Legendary Master of the Chapter






I think he means a dark grey

Charadon Granite was a very VERY good grey color.

it will be missed :(

Looks great.

there is some wash marks on the riptide leg.


 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in de
Focused Dark Angels Land Raider Pilot




Germany

 Desubot wrote:
I think he means a dark grey

Charadon Granite was a very VERY good grey color.

it will be missed :(

Looks great.

there is some wash marks on the riptide leg.



Those are supposed to represent wethering T_T
Decided to make my tau look factory fresh after painting the tide, because I don't think it looks that good.

My Dark Grey color is skavenblight dinge with a layer of agrax earthshade applied with my airbrush. The result is a very nice brownish dark grey tone.
   
Made in us
Shas'o Commanding the Hunter Kadre




Missouri

I think it all looks pretty good. The streaks on the riptide's leg do kinda look like wash marks though, not sure if it was intended to be oil streaks or something instead. I think weathered Tau look the best, though, so I wouldn't shelve the idea.

I like the barracuda in particular, really love the look of the new model. Personally I want a pair of them and a new tigershark, too.

 Desubot wrote:
Why isnt Slut Wars: The Sexpocalypse a real game dammit.


"It's easier to change the rules than to get good at the game." 
   
Made in us
Legendary Dogfighter





McAllen, TX

 Desubot wrote:
I think he means a dark grey

Charadon Granite was a very VERY good grey color.

it will be missed :(

Looks great.

there is some wash marks on the riptide leg.



correct, upon seeing the clearer images, I'd have to agree the Riptide need some fixing, carefully apply the appropriate color in thin layers, then wash that area, you'll have to learn to wash over specific colors, not an entire model, as it will pool up and cause undesirable effects.

An area you could do is the barracuda cockpit lens, gradual transition from bottom corners, leaving a darker triangle, then apply a thin white highlight in top middle, then 2 white dots at top corners, once dry apply gloss coat.
https://imgur.com/a/rcxtT
example of lens around 2/3 down the page where my vehicles and flyers are at.









This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/12/27 21:28:55


 
   
Made in us
Legendary Master of the Chapter






 Big Mac wrote:
 Desubot wrote:
I think he means a dark grey

Charadon Granite was a very VERY good grey color.

it will be missed :(

Looks great.

there is some wash marks on the riptide leg.



correct, upon seeing the clearer images, I'd have to agree the Riptide need some fixing, carefully apply the appropriate color in thin layers, then wash that area, you'll have to learn to wash over specific colors, not an entire model, as it will pool up and cause undesirable effects.

An area you could do is the barracuda cockpit lens, gradual transition from bottom corners, leaving a darker triangle, then apply a thin white highlight above, once dry apply gloss coat.
https://imgur.com/a/rcxtT
example of lens around 2/3 down the page where my vehicles and flyers are at.











He apparently did to on purpose to make it look more weathered


 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in us
Legendary Dogfighter





McAllen, TX

 Desubot wrote:
 Big Mac wrote:
 Desubot wrote:
I think he means a dark grey

Charadon Granite was a very VERY good grey color.

it will be missed :(

Looks great.

there is some wash marks on the riptide leg.



correct, upon seeing the clearer images, I'd have to agree the Riptide need some fixing, carefully apply the appropriate color in thin layers, then wash that area, you'll have to learn to wash over specific colors, not an entire model, as it will pool up and cause undesirable effects.

An area you could do is the barracuda cockpit lens, gradual transition from bottom corners, leaving a darker triangle, then apply a thin white highlight above, once dry apply gloss coat.
https://imgur.com/a/rcxtT
example of lens around 2/3 down the page where my vehicles and flyers are at.











He apparently did to on purpose to make it look more weathered



It doesn't look properly weathered, if you look at the cream plate in front of the head especially. You'll want to apply the decals before weathering if you want decals at all. I'd suggest lightly sponging effect for weathering big models/vehicles.
   
Made in au
Deadshot Weapon Moderati





Newcastle NSW

Don't apply decals if your doing Sa'cea sept colours unless you can find orange ones, the standard white ones look awful with the grey and orange

The Four Winds Tribe has returned to claim the Underhive for House Escher


Deathwatch Kill Team: W5 D0 L1
 
   
Made in de
Focused Dark Angels Land Raider Pilot




Germany

Thanks for all the Feedback!

I think I will not put decals on my suits. I don't like the design and if done wrong you can ruin a paintjob with badly applied decals.

The weathereing seems to be the real issue here.
Not what I should do here. I don't want to ruin everything with bad weathering (see riptide).
   
Made in us
Legendary Dogfighter





McAllen, TX

I can understand your hesitation about applying decals properly, it took me a few times to learn and do them right.

Decal instruction if you should trying them on future models: 1)apply GW gloss coat and let dry evenly, meaning face up as even as possible; 2) apply decal, remember you can cut existing combinations to form your own, cut out the piece and apply clean water on it, once it ca be moved with brush, apply over gloss area; 3) once dry, apply Testor decal softner, especially if over curve areas, such as marine shoulder pads, a second coat maybe necessary, let dry for 20 minutes; 4) roll your brush over the decal to rid of any air bubbles; 5) shake and apply GW lahmian medium and dry evenly, if there are still air pockets visible, poke through with xacto knife, then apply a second coat of lahmian medium.

If you decide to wash the white areas, you'll have to retouch a lil bit, most people just do the gradual highlight from grey to white and leave it alone. FW dry powder are great for light weathering at the final stage just before spray varnish.

Sponging: you can use foam package/sponge brush/messed up old brush, 1) dab some dark grey(charadon granite was best for this), now i suggest mechanicum grey with some black, apply gently a few times in areas you think will have weathering due to debris or constant motion(vents, frontal areas of a flyer, joints etc.); 2) use a smaller messed up brush and apply some GW leadbelcher, highlight edges with silver.
   
 
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