The collected works of my AdMech army
Forge World Tonka
Thought I'd share my Forgeworld, I've been working on it since Sept 2017. Questions and constructive criticism are of course welcome.
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Regarding the Paint Scheme
*All basecoats and finishes except Testors Dullcote are applied through an airbrush*
## **Yellows:**
* Tamiya - Flat Yellow thin w/ Acrylic thinner
* Vallejo Game Air- Golden Yellow for darker areas
* Orange Flame Ink for Rust and wear and the orange shade around the bottom of the cabin
* Vallejo Game Air - Moon Yellow for highlights
* Johnson's Pledge Acrylic Floor Polish - Gloss the whole model (this helps protect your paint work and it will make the decals and transfers lay very flat and they won't silver.) I use the Johnson's Pledge Acrylic Floor Polish
* Apply transfers w/ proper products, I use MicroSol and MicroSet
* Citadel Typhus Corrosion - Sponge - make sure the sponge is nearly dry, small chips is what your looking for. Aim these around corners, hatch covers, areas that would get
dmg
* I apply a burnt umber oilwash/siena oilwash (sludge wash), this effectively fills in all the nooks and crannies w/ brown. I go back w/ cuetips and white spirits and clean off large panels and areas I don't want dirt grime or rust.
* Gloss
* Matte Cote w/ Testors Dullcote until you've achieved your proper finish. I like mine very matte.
* Vallejo Game Air - Moon Yellow - At this point I will do touchups and some line highlighting.
## **Metal:**
* Vallejo Metal Color - Burnt Iron
* Vallejo Metal Color - Steel - application should be on high points areas that woul be clean
* Citadel - 50/50 Nuln Oil and Agrath Earthshade
* Drybrush - Rub n Buff - Grecian Golden - get rid of almost all product on the brush prior to application you're looking to highlight the edges you don't want huge streaks
* Drybrush - Rub n Buff - Pewter - Grecian Golden - get rid of almost all product on the brush prior to application you're looking to highlight the edges you don't want huge streaks
* Gloss
* Burn Umber Oil Wash remove excess w/ white spirits, should be in deep recesses
* Apply pigments if desired for rusted ares
* Matte Cote
## **Blue Glow/ Lens:**
* Kantor Blue/ Midnight Blue
* Vallejo Game Air - Magic Blue
* Vallejo Game Air - Electric Blue
* Drybrush/ Edge Electric Blue + White
## **Bases:**
I use the Green Stuff World rolling pins, deck plate and mesh. Roll out thin sheets w/ of Sculpey (this is my prefered medium as I can bake and harden it in 15 minutes), downside is it can chip and is white, will need touchups in the future...I gurantee it
Apply bits, I like the idea that my dudes are fighting on an orbital space dock on the ring of iron surrounding Mars or Voss. I try and make that theme work. So no plants, no weeds, just things you'd probably find out there, oil drums, pipes, scrap sludge, slime, fuel leaks, steam leaks, etc.
* Prime Black
* Vallejo - Metal Color Burnt Iron - highlight interesting areas
* Reaper - Harvest Brown - Lightly mist over burnt iron, you don't want full coverage, you want to give the sense that rust is taking hold
* Reaper - Orange Brown - Intensify some areas of the Harvest brown, this will be fresh rust patches
* AK Interactive - Rust Streaks - I airbrush this over everything in a light coat (for the love of god put on a mask if you haven't already this will full on rot your lungs)
* Ak Interactive - Crusted Rust - I apply the full series with a brush or an eye dropper, start with large patches of dark, then medium orange, then very small hightlights of the bright yellow/orange
* Drip enamel thinner over the paint let it pool, begin tilting the base so the enamel paint runs and seaps into crevices, tilt in different ways, this will make interesting patterns in the rust
* Let everything dry thoroughly and matte cote
* If you're satistfied w/ your rust leave as is, if you want to age the rust make it more reddish, I apply a very fine mist of the rust streaks again to tie everything together
* I also go back with either black primer or ink and darken areas to give some contrast. I want the plate to look like its been burned and used for 10,000 years.
* I intend to make some pools of slime/promethium and put it around the pipes and things of that nature
**Mount/Pin your model to the base**
* Put clear tape around the portions of the base you're going to apply epoxy to in order to create a resevoir
* Use either water effects or 2 part clear epoxy (I recommend 30 minute epoxy so you have some play time but if you're quick you could do it w/ 5 minute)
* Mix a light green or yellow into the epoxy, preferably a transparent ink or wash, opaques will work. A few drops goes a long way. Get it to where you want it prior to application.
* Apply this to the base using a throw away eye dropper, syringe w/o needle or a very steady hand/pour if you've put your model on already.
* After you've put your epoxy down, w/ an eye dropper put drips of more transparent green or yellow or whatever color your want into the epoxy and create swirils or lines moving away from breaks in the pipe, this will create some color variaiton. Put things like painted skeletons, barels, clear beads to create bubbles etc into the epoxy before it sets...or just leave it plain.
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