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Hello,

I am looking for some advice on getting started with some "advanced" modeling things, particularly sculpting. For specifics, I have the Demon Prince of Khorne from Forgeworld and I've put the old Bloodthirster wings on its back (resin, not metal), but there are some parts where it isn't connecting so I want to sculpt some connective areas.

Any and all advice is helpful, even just pointing me towards some useful references such as books, youtube video tutorials, or other dakka threads, but here are a couple questions:

1) How do people sculpt with Green Stuff? It's so sticky I can never get it to take a shape because when I pull my tool off of it the green stuff pulls with it. Also what is this liquid green stuff that they have, any good?

2) Is there any good modeling clay/putty other than Green Stuff? Recommendations?

3) My Demon Prince, like most minis, cannot stand on his own. I'm making him a special base and I'm worried if I put him on a temporary base I'll ruin his feet when I try to remove him. Any suggestions on how to keep him upright in the mean time (he's currently wedged on some foam!).

Thanks

Use Vaseline on your tools to stop it sticking. I use colour shapers to actually shape and move the GS. Little rubber tipped tools that also don't stick.

 Flinty wrote:
Use Vaseline on your tools to stop it sticking. I use colour shapers to actually shape and move the GS. Little rubber tipped tools that also don't stick.

Thanks, I'll give that a try.

Liquid green stuff is gak. Don't waste your time. Use lots of water. Its eaiser to add than to remove. If you do use too much green stuff you can just mold what you want, let it cure, then cut it off with a hobby knife. I use greenstuff, some people use millitput.

use WATER!
Use rubber tools.
Dental picks are nice as well
Ball Point tools.

Google is your friend. There are quite a bit of youtube videos on sculpting.

Also there is Pro-Create putty.
I used wax carving tools like these:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Piece-Stainless-Steel-Wax-Carving/dp/B000V6MTDO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524677487&sr=8-1&keywords=wax+tools



Automatically Appended Next Post:
& use water (I stick the tools in my mouth).


Automatically Appended Next Post:
& use water (I stick the tools in my mouth).
Practice makes perfect.
Build up layers - don't try to do the whole lot in one go.
Keep you green stuff in the freezer & use clippers to snip off what you need as you go.
Buy a tube of green stuff - it'll last forever and is way cheaper. I don't know where to get it in the US but its trade name is Kneadatite.
https://sylmasta.com/product/greenstuff-stick/

Water, vaseline and talcum powder stop it sticking (I don't mean mixing them together.) Leaving it to cure for half an hour before starting to sculpt also makes gs easier to work with. I'd suggest going over finger prints with a wet, reasonably firm brush at the end of each session, as you will struggle to remove them after curing. Don't expect to do things in one go, you are better off doing a layer, letting it cure and then adding more to it.

Regarding the base, you could drill a small hole in the base of a foot, going up the leg, and then pinning it to a handle. You can then shorten the pin when you are done and use it to fix it to the base.

Use small amounts. it's easier most of the time to just mix up a bit more and add it as you need, there are exceptions to this but generally just mix what you need. Fresh GS is easier to work with than when it's hard and doesn't stick to what you are working on.

- Use warm water, having vaseline or talc all over your models and work space isn't fun. IT stops the greenstuff sticking to the tool sure, but it also stops the greenstuff sticking to everything else.
So just use water, if you add to much, just wait for it to evaporate.

- The warmer it is, the softer it is and the easier it is to work, however it'll cure quicker. So if your hands are cold, warm them, you're not making pastry.

- When greenstuff is warm, sticky and freshly mixed it's at it's best for sculpting soft things (like flesh) and moulding into shape where you want it, it'll also allow you to spread it on to whatever you are working on much easier so you don't have obvious joins.

- Everyone else has mentioned tools, silicone ones are great, but you'll still find you need the metal ones.

- Build up in layers, its easier to sculpt on something than try to work on an unsupported piece.

- Practice

Thanks everyone. I've got some tools on the way and some 4 year old green stuff sitting in a box. I'll take some pics of the demon prince tonight and post so you can see what I'm working with. Friday when the tools arrive I'll see what I can do.

I'll definitely play around with it in the mean time. I've never had success with green stuff and I'd rather not ruin my $100 miniature. Plus he's my warlord!

I'd buy new green stuff. Yours might be ok but 4 years is quite old.

GS is naturally more sticky but it seems like one of your component is too old.

Use it while it's sticky to get it in to the crevice, wait around 15-20 minutes until it sets a bit and wet your fingers/tools as you sculpt it.

Grey stuff is a bit less sticky but has much less work time. GS is better for organic shapes due to its longer work time.

Alternatively, if you're sculpting up large pieces, grey stuff is by far the better choice contrary to most users's stance. Grey stuff's extra stiffness can almost bypass the need for armatures in a large sculpts. You can go back with GS once the general form has been shaped to detail it out.

Ok, so, my tools won't arrive until this weekend, but I bought some Golden (brand, not color) modeling putty and tried it out on a base. It seems pretty simple, it's like extremely thick paint that dries very hard and kinda like rubber or plastic. My plan is to "paint" the missing wing-shoulder muscle and to fill in the gaps on the bottom. Perhaps, afterward, use some greenstuff to make some stretched flesh.

I'm going in blind, though so if anyone has any ideas I'm all ears.

On a side note... this model requires about 90% of its spikes be glued onto it! I don't know why these spikes couldn't have been a part of the model to begin with! I'm never getting another one! It looks as cool as it is frustrating to build!

Oh and if you're interested in what it looks like...

Honestly I'd be leaning towards just waiting for the tools and using greenstuff for that fill, but what works, works.

The spikes being separate is likely for mold life reasons. Especially if they aren't all in uniform directions, molds for resin can handle undercuts, but I can't imagine bending the rubber like you'd need to free large spikes poking out every which way would be good for getting it not to tear.

Vejut wrote:
Honestly I'd be leaning towards just waiting for the tools and using greenstuff for that fill, but what works, works.

I need the tools either way, so it's a toss up between green stuff and this modeling putty. We'll see. I'm expecting them today, but I'd rather finish my Blood Slaughterer for my match tomorrow than sweat over filling in my DPs gaps.