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Made in gb
Automated Rubric Marine of Tzeentch





UK

I'll kick-off with what I'm using:

3022 cutting mat
X-Acto No.1 (with No.11 blades)
Citadel cutters (the essentials ones, not the fine detail ones)
Citadel plastic glue

So what are you using?

[1,800] Chaos Knights | [1,250] Thousand Sons | [1,000] Grey Knights | 40K editions: RT, 8, 9, 10 | https://www.flickr.com/photos/dreadblade/  
   
Made in us
Legendary Master of the Chapter






mmmm.

no mat
Daiso 1 dollar exacto knife (very nice)
Harbor freight red flush cutter for metal
Wish (the online china retaler thing) electronics flush cutter for plastics
Tamya thin plastic glue
Sci grip number 4 plastic glue
blue cap gorilla glue
harbor freight small files
random sanding sticks
WN series 7 number 1 brush.

edit: oh right also pin vice and drills. also 1mm carbide micro drills for pcbs. fantastic little buggers but very fragile and breaks easily.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2018/06/14 17:59:36


 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in at
Regular Dakkanaut




Austria

I got:

Tamiya hobby knife (VERY satisfied with that) including 25 blades plus some remaining ones I had lying around from an old GW one)
Citadel cutter (the old, grey/black one). I really like that tool, but I fear it will soon be time for it to retire
Army painter saw (quite nice for big models. MIght consider getting the current GW saw or something similar ofr smaller cuts and better control. If anybody has some tips, I am thankful!)
GW drill & some drill bits (still need some larger ones, but quite satisfied with the drill itself)
A load of different files, ranging from Army painter to some noname hardware store ones plus sand paper
A variety of glues: GW thin plastic glue, GW thick plastic glue and a Loctite super glue gel (I loved the GW super glue with the brush)

~5000 pts
~5000 pts 
   
Made in us
Daemonic Dreadnought





Eye of Terror

Just looking at what's on my desk:

- Tamiya Plastic Scriber
- Tin Snips
- K&S Tin Coated Steel Sheet
- PVC Cable Saw
- Coping Saw
- Alumilite RC3 Casting Resin
- Mold Star Silicone Rubber
- Rubber Bands, 1200 count
- X-Acto Knight
- Pledge
- Titebond Original Wood Glue
- Cutting Block
- Flock, Dead Grass
- 250 count mixing cups
- Orodless Turpenoid
- Legos, Large Box
- Assortment of GW, Vallejo and Windsor Newton Paints
- Complete set of Secret Weapon Minature washes
- Several sheets of clear styrene
- Badger Regdab
- Procreate, 3.2 oz package

   
Made in gb
Automated Rubric Marine of Tzeentch





UK

Keep them coming. There must be huge range of modelling tools being used on Dakka...

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2018/06/16 07:32:37


[1,800] Chaos Knights | [1,250] Thousand Sons | [1,000] Grey Knights | 40K editions: RT, 8, 9, 10 | https://www.flickr.com/photos/dreadblade/  
   
Made in au
Anti-Armour Swiss Guard






Newcastle, OZ

Actual X-acto #1 with #11 blades.
Razor saw attachment with removable blade and a mitre box to suit.
Selection of other shaped blades for #1 handle.

Pin vice with 2x double collets and a selection of engineering microbits (sub-1mm). Bits came from electronics store - and are intended for drilling out holes in pcbs.

Set of dental picks and tools (wax and clay shapers).
My clippers came from an electronics store and have tungsten carbide blades (they're meant for snipping the leads of electronic components but will cut up to steel-on-steel guitar strings).

BSI medium superglue.
Revell Contacta professional plastic cement for plastic models.
Selection of paints from GW (old black plastic hex flip tops), Tamiya, Vallejo.

I'm OVER 50 (and so far over everyone's BS, too).
Old enough to know better, young enough to not give a ****.

That is not dead which can eternal lie ...

... and yet, with strange aeons, even death may die.
 
   
Made in us
Grim Dark Angels Interrogator-Chaplain






A Protoss colony world

I'm using:
Clippers: Testors sprue cutters
Knife: X-acto #1 handle with #11 blade
Drill: 2 different pin vise drills; one that goes up to 1/16" bits, and the other for larger ones (up to 1/8").
Paintbrushes: Various GW and Army Painter ones, but also some very inexpensive artist brushes (I was going through the expensive ones too fast to be worth it).
Glue: Testors Plastic Glue, Krazy Glue (superglue)
Paints: Vast majority is GW, but I do use Vallejo Black (mostly because my FLGS was out of Abaddon Black when I bought it).
In addition to these, I also have a set of sculpting tools and a small hacksaw (which I've only used once). Plus a Citadel Painting Handle, which works wonderfully for character models.

My armies (re-counted and updated on 11/1/23, including modeled wargear options):
Dark Angels: ~15000 Astra Militarum: ~1200 | Adeptus Custodes: ~1900 | Imperial Knights: ~2000 | Sisters of Battle: ~3500 | Leagues of Votann: ~1200 | Tyranids: ~2600 | Stormcast Eternals: ~5000
Check out my P&M Blogs: ZergSmasher's P&M Blog | Imperial Knights blog | Board Games blog | Total models painted in 2023: 40 | Total models painted in 2024: 7 | Current main painting project: Dark Angels
 Mr_Rose wrote:
Who doesn’t love crazy mutant squawk-puppies? Eh? Nobody, that’s who.
 
   
Made in us
Powerful Phoenix Lord





More or less the following:

http://myminiaturemischief.blogspot.com/2016/06/getting-started-tools.html

Xuron Clippers, various emory boards, a host of old X-actos, a Fiskars mat, two lamps, and a bunch of random files.
   
Made in gb
Blood Angel Terminator with Lightning Claws





Cloud City, Bespin

I have

GW clippers, retro yellow handle and a slightly newer grey/black handle one.
A 10pk of pin files: various shapes
Pin vice with 30 odd bits
Ceramic 12 dimple pallet
AP mega brush set and a couple of GW brushes
30 odd glass paint agitation balls 6mm
A4 cutting mat
GW paint handle
Maplin modelling knives
Flock, gravel, static grass
Various glues
Double sided tape
1x2” wooden spray stick

 queen_annes_revenge wrote:
Straight out if the pot, bang it on. What else is there to know?
 DV8 wrote:
Blood Angels Furioso Dreadnought should also be double-fisted.
 
   
Made in au
Incorporating Wet-Blending




Sydney

Oh boy oh boy

Jewellers flexible shaft
Ultrasonic knife
Exacto knives
Mineshima knives
6x airbrushes
Tamiya pin vises
12v drill
Jigsaw paint shaker
Scratch brushes
Everlasting wet palette
Xurons
God hands
Silhouette curio
Floor polish
Industrial talc
Flexible ca glue
Soldering paste
Butane torch
Winsor and Newton brushes
Rosemary and co brushes
Masters brush soap

That's off the top of my head

I think collecting tools is my hobby rather than using them
   
Made in us
Decrepit Dakkanaut






SoCal, USA!

Currently, I'm just building plastic Kingdom Death:
* Xuron clippers
* Xacto 1 & 2 knives with quarter round blades
* Needle files
* Model Master plastic cement (with the needle applicator!)

As of my shift to Model Master, I've finally stopped using Testors gel in the orange tube.

I'll be doing gap filling soon:
* Super glue
* talcum powder

After that, I'll be switching over to working on metal

   
Made in gb
Automated Rubric Marine of Tzeentch





UK

 chromedog wrote:
Actual X-acto #1 with #11 blades.

The X-Acto No.1 seems popular!

 chromedog wrote:
Revell Contacta professional plastic cement for plastic models.

How does this compare to the Citadel plastic glue?

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2018/06/17 05:13:40


[1,800] Chaos Knights | [1,250] Thousand Sons | [1,000] Grey Knights | 40K editions: RT, 8, 9, 10 | https://www.flickr.com/photos/dreadblade/  
   
Made in au
Anti-Armour Swiss Guard






Newcastle, OZ

It's their thinnest handle. It's also available in a similar size from a number of other makers. I've had my three handles for several decades.

The only difference between stock and mine is the heatshrink tubing added to the shaft AND the knurled bit that holds the collet together (two pieces). Just makes them a little more comfortable to hold.

I've never used the citadel plastic glue, so I wouldn't know how they compare. I've used liquid cements for plastic kits for going on 35 or so years - I stopped using the thicker "gunge-in-a-tube" stuff about when I was 15. It's thin, works relatively quickly and is a strong bond on polystyrene kits. If it's taking too long, it's either (ambient) cold or you've used too much. Normal use is hold parts together but slightly separated, and apply the nozzle to the gap. Capillary action draws the liquid down the gap. Press parts together, and scrape that seam back when it dries.

I can tell you that it isn't the same one I used for many years, though (the formula has changed from a 1%v/v toluene solution to an n-butyl based one due to changes in the EU ROHS regs a number of years ago.)
Toluene is on the naughty list, but it meant I could use this stuff to "cut" Squadron putty, to make a thinner, paintable putty).

I'm OVER 50 (and so far over everyone's BS, too).
Old enough to know better, young enough to not give a ****.

That is not dead which can eternal lie ...

... and yet, with strange aeons, even death may die.
 
   
Made in au
Incorporating Wet-Blending




Sydney

tamiya extra thin glue is amazing too, contacta is usually a bit thick for capillary action to me
   
Made in gb
Automated Rubric Marine of Tzeentch





UK

I find the Citadel plastic glue excellent. I assume it's pretty similar to the Revell Contacta.

[1,800] Chaos Knights | [1,250] Thousand Sons | [1,000] Grey Knights | 40K editions: RT, 8, 9, 10 | https://www.flickr.com/photos/dreadblade/  
   
Made in gb
Blood Angel Terminator with Lightning Claws





Cloud City, Bespin

I always thought that citadels poly cement in the bottle with the brush was best. Thin like water

 queen_annes_revenge wrote:
Straight out if the pot, bang it on. What else is there to know?
 DV8 wrote:
Blood Angels Furioso Dreadnought should also be double-fisted.
 
   
Made in nl
[MOD]
Decrepit Dakkanaut






Cozy cockpit of an Imperial Knight

A pair of small classic GW cutting mats
A Swann-Morton retractable scalpel and piles and piles of 10A blades
Army Painter clippers (need replacing at some point, suggestions welcome)
Mr. Cement Deluxe plastic glue
Kibri plastic glue
Zap-A-Gap super glue
Zipkicker accelerator
Good old metal GW pin vice and an assortment of drills they used to sell
Strips of fine grit sanding paper



Fatum Iustum Stultorum



Fiat justitia ruat caelum

 
   
Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut




UK

My current kit:

Plastic glue - never been loyal to a brand, used Reveal, Airfix, Citadel, currently got Armypainter.

Super glue - again used all kinds currently another Armypainter bottle.

Scalpels/blades:
GW original with the thick black handle. Honestly I really like this one, its well made and the handle sits in the hand very comfortably. Still my favoured default choice.
Swann and Morton - I forget the numbers but I've got a round handle one and a flat one. Both are good and take different blade shapes with a bit of variety over just the standard GW; though honestly a simple blade often works best. Got them mostly just to try out different handle types (and at the time my GW one had been missplaced in a box). SM are top quality and a major range, the non-sterile are just as good just not sterilized (and you don't need sterile tools for model work). Loads of different blade shapes and handle types.

I made a separate thread on files https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/757433.page
Files - a set of four round diamond needle files (0.9, 1, 1.2, 1.5 mm diameters); one halfround 600 grit diamond, one halfround smaller 900 grit diamond. Those are the ones I've found myself actually using over and over again. I've also a selection of cheap to cheapish to decent regular toothed files that I've collected over the years. A decent quality toothed one is great on metals, but for resin or plastic I've never had them work ideally overall; and the diamonds beat them totally.
One time I was all "get cheap/standard" now I'm "get a high grit diamond in small sizes. Because resin, plastic and even white metals are so soft even a very fine grit still files very effectively.

Pair of yellow handle GW Clippers - actually mine died (the spring broke) so I got a set of the new GW black ones (ones before their current) but never liked them as much. However the standard yellow handle clippers are a mass market product sold on ebay so got myself a replacement set

Colourshapers (also called clay shapers). Picked up 3 sets, black, grey and white (soft, softer, softest) in 5 different head shapes, though if you only get one a firm black conehead is the one I reach for the most. These are FANTASTIC for working with greenstuff, to the point where I'm shocked GW doesn't have their own brand choice nor any real mention of them in their guides*. They let you rub and smooth over greenstuff just like your finger, but without fingerprint marks. Getting smooth transitions with greenstuff without having to wait for it to cure and then filing it; and if you do file to get it extra smooth a lot of the work is already done for you.

Pinvice - your standard silver pinvice for drilling holes for pinning. Back when they made them I picked up some of the P3 pinning sets (neat brass rods with drill bits of the right size). Sadly I don't think P3 make them any more, but any soft/easy to work metal would work for pinning.
I also picked up a second pinvice as I found that whilst most of the silver ones can go up to a 3mm slot size, it can be a very tight fit. So I got a second one that's a neat round wooden handle that just sits with a 3mm bit in it for drilling slots for magnets (this also means my silver pinvice can stay with smaller drill bits).

A set of 12 wax carving tools (clay tools also the same thing); contains a range of shapes and ends for different effects, mostly for working with greenstuff (in general if it works for wax or clay the tool will work for greenstuff). The standard blade and rounded end tool (as sold by GW) is still the most reached for.

Curved end files - your basic file but with the end of the blade curved, makes it a little easier to get into some corners and work. A little big for models though and I've not yet seen them in smaller sizes for intricate work; though must admit I've not done an intensive search. They work well when needed, but never found them to be a must have.

One small and one large cutting mats - the standard green with all the lines on them.

One brass wire brush used for cleaning toothed files (not for cleaning the diamond files). Very important, esp if you file any greenstuff as it clogs up the file teeth very fast.



*at least I never recall seeing them in the past

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2018/06/17 10:42:59


A Blog in Miniature

3D Printing, hobbying and model fun! 
   
Made in us
The Marine Standing Behind Marneus Calgar





Upstate, New York

Hmm, I need to get a new pic of my gear. Some of these I don’t use any more, and I’ve added some new things.


Krazy glue w/brush applicator
I’ve switched to the Tesors model master, much thinner with a long narrow nozzle. Much more control.
Elmer’s PVA glue (for basing)
Green stuff
Poster/sticky tac
Army Painter pin vice. (w/ the bits it came with)
-Craftsman bits (imperial measure)
-no name drill bits (metric)
Exacto, #11 blades
Old, dull, broken testor’s knife, mostly for scraping and abuse.
Craftsman files
Wire cutters
needlenose pliers
Smooth jawed jewelry pliers
cheep craft store flush cutters
tweezers
cutting mat
Microsol/set
Painter’s tape
metal ruler
offset palette knife (for spreading flock paste)
Old toothbrush
long bent spike tool
dremel

Probably a few other things

   
Made in gb
Automated Rubric Marine of Tzeentch





UK

I don't see any mouldline removers yet. Is everyone just using the back of an X-Acto blade?

[1,800] Chaos Knights | [1,250] Thousand Sons | [1,000] Grey Knights | 40K editions: RT, 8, 9, 10 | https://www.flickr.com/photos/dreadblade/  
   
Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut




UK

 Brother Castor wrote:
I don't see any mouldline removers yet. Is everyone just using the back of an X-Acto blade?


Actually I picked one up recently (which is why I forgot to list it).

I've had generally good results over the years using both the blade and back of a scalpel blade.

The GW mould line remover I find works well just like the back of a blade, though I find because its thicker it doesn't "bounce" as badly on some surfaces. Of course this also works against it as its actually quite a thick tool so it won't work in a lot of tight corners, but its good on plain open surfaces.

A Blog in Miniature

3D Printing, hobbying and model fun! 
   
Made in gb
Grim Dark Angels Interrogator-Chaplain





Cardiff

Colour/clay shapers. Don’t leave home without them. Make sculpting and converting with Green Stuff and Milliput a pleasure not a chore.

 Stormonu wrote:
For me, the joy is in putting some good-looking models on the board and playing out a fantasy battle - not arguing over the poorly-made rules of some 3rd party who neither has any power over my play nor will be visiting me (and my opponent) to ensure we are "playing by the rules"
 
   
Made in us
Decrepit Dakkanaut






SoCal, USA!

I'm still scraping with my X-acto

   
Made in us
Nurgle Chosen Marine on a Palanquin





Razor saws are very useful tools, but stay a way from the mediocre Xacto versions and get Zona saws. FAR superior... They come in a number of sizes and tooth-per-inch options, including one saw that is only .010" thick with a matching mitre box.

https://www.zonatool.net/cat/razor-saws-miter-boxes/

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC0.A0.H0.Xzona+saw.TRS0.TSS0&_nkw=zona+saw&_sacat=0
   
Made in gb
Automated Rubric Marine of Tzeentch





UK

I didn't list brushes the first time:

Citadel M Layer
Citadel XL Base
Citadel S Dry
Citadel M Shade

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2018/06/30 14:08:35


[1,800] Chaos Knights | [1,250] Thousand Sons | [1,000] Grey Knights | 40K editions: RT, 8, 9, 10 | https://www.flickr.com/photos/dreadblade/  
   
Made in gb
Blood Angel Terminator with Lightning Claws





Cloud City, Bespin

What’s the equivalent to the old standard brush?
I used to have a red one back when I started and the AP brush set only has a regiment brush which isn’t the same

 queen_annes_revenge wrote:
Straight out if the pot, bang it on. What else is there to know?
 DV8 wrote:
Blood Angels Furioso Dreadnought should also be double-fisted.
 
   
 
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