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So, can some one tell me what happens to models that suddenly overtime become wiped from 40k and are now irrelevent model, what do you do throw them in the bin? or what?

if you're new to the game know that this is rare eneugh that it's not worth worrying about. but when it does happen you have a few choices. 1st is : garbage bin. second is "Ebay sales" collectors might wanna get their hands on some simply for collections sake. the third is keep em as collectables yourself. something to dig out to show people years down the road.

over all though? not worth worrying about

 Stormatious wrote:
So, can some one tell me what happens to models that suddenly overtime become wiped from 40k and are now irrelevent model, what do you do throw them in the bin? or what?

I never throw out models. Which ones do you have that are now irrelevant? I was playing with two armies full of 20+ year old models this evening.

I dont have any i think that are irrelevent, i just wanted to make sure oneday they wouldn't be worth nothing, but braindaviod said has answered that question, Thanks heaps guys.

Hi S,

Don”t sweat oop models. Mine are still going strong after 20+ years :-)

Any that don’t fit the current vision are just ‘counts-as’.

Check out my Lead Adventure Forum ‘Ork Army, Rogue Trader’ gallery:

http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?action=gallery;su=user;cat=1133;u=1567

Cheers,

M

Guys i have another question. I have 5 rhinos and iv "
primed" them with black paint using a BRUSH not a SPRAY, iv appled 3 coats of Thinned black using water from tap... is this ok....?


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aND ALSO what colour do i use to "wash" a black model?


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Does the wash colour like have to be darker then the colour its going over?

 Stormatious wrote:
I dont have any i think that are irrelevent, i just wanted to make sure oneday they wouldn't be worth nothing, but braindaviod said has answered that question, Thanks heaps guys.

Even in the rare cases where a model's rules change or disappear you can usually remedy that with a weapon swap or use it as something similar.

A few thoughts:

1) For most armies you do get some models move in and out of production, often this just means that GW is making a new version of the same model so your old one is still 100% valid, its just a classic design.

2) Sometimes you will get weapon retire, so the actual unit (like a marine) is valid, but a special weapon choice no longer appears in their equipment choices. This is often fairly minor for most armies (and it most oftne happens with weapons that never were produced by GW as a model but were in the rules* so it was likely a conversion anyway). In this case "counts as" often works since hte weapon can't be what it once was but can often look similar to something else enough that most will accept it without problems

3) Some armies suffer more than others, Tyranids** often suffer from changing legal weapon choices due to how they are built ; magnets are their saving grace there as you can magnetize the arms on most larger models so you can swap the weapons. On larger models with lots of weapon choices this can be a good thing to do because it means you can vary the loadout with a single model. Tanks are another good example where its easy to magnetize the weapon choices.

Painting wise I am no expert. It should be noted that the primer sprays are a different composition to the paints in a pot. The undercoat isn't just about giving you a monotone to pint onto, but also about sticking the paint to the model. The undercoat layer sticks to the plastic better than bare paint will. So it gives you a more firm painting base.

Now I am no painting expert, so I can't say if what you've got will work well or if its going to be at a significantly increased risk of flaking off. It might be that you can just paint it up and then give it a few thin coats of varnish and you'll be fine.

* GW is also a lot better now as they've removed any weapon from the codex that they don't produce a model option for. So what's in the book will be on the sprue for pretty much nearly all cases now.

** Many tyranid players advise if its a warrior or bigger then put magnets on the weapons.

 Stormatious wrote:
Guys i have another question. I have 5 rhinos and iv "
primed" them with black paint using a BRUSH not a SPRAY, iv appled 3 coats of Thinned black using water from tap... is this ok....?


Automatically Appended Next Post:
aND ALSO what colour do i use to "wash" a black model?


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Does the wash colour like have to be darker then the colour its going over?

Primer is not just paint. You really want a proper spray primer (and make sure it actually says primer).

There's basically two easy ways to paint black:
1 Paint black, edge highlight with gray, no wash.
2. Paint dark gray, wash with black.

Since you've already painted black I'd go for a gray edge highlight. Paint the details and just wash the details.

Yeah but what colour do i wash the details with?, some are gonna be Bone coloured and some are gonna be gold.

cheers


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And dude is it common even if you're a good painter to see brush marks if you look in close enough? lol

Moriarty wrote:
Hi S,

Don”t sweat oop models. Mine are still going strong after 20+ years :-)

Any that don’t fit the current vision are just ‘counts-as’.

Check out my Lead Adventure Forum ‘Ork Army, Rogue Trader’ gallery:

http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?action=gallery;su=user;cat=1133;u=1567

Cheers,

M

These orks look terrific. Good job!

 Stormatious wrote:
Yeah but what colour do i wash the details with?, some are gonna be Bone coloured and some are gonna be gold.

cheers


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And dude is it common even if you're a good painter to see brush marks if you look in close enough? lol

Black or brown wash both work for bone and gold.

Having no brush marks on large flat surfaces (like most of a Rhino) takes some practice and technique.

Hi S,

Re painting, there could be two reasons for “brush marks”:

If it is a ‘streaky’ effect, could be because paint is to thin.

If it’s a ‘ridged’ effect, could be paint is too thick.

Hard to say without a picture :-)

Spray paint could be your friend :-)

Cheers,

M

Ill post pictures today of before and after pics.

ok heres before and after... i am new to painting this is my first time, but be honest. Also some of the black needs another coat that's why you can see through it a tiny bit, also i have to fix some of the gold that has slipped on to the black. And for some reason these camera shots make it look worse then it actauly is. Remember NO primer has been used....

I was expecting much worse. As base coats on rhinos go that isn't terrible.

If you'd done the same over a black primer you'd be spot on now. As you say there a few bits that need another coat.

After you've painted all of the details, tracks, etc. you'll want to go around touching up the black. That's perfectly normal, very few people are so neat that there's never any touch up to be done.

Do your touch up before you do the washes as you might get a bit of black on the silver/gold/bone and need to touch that up. Once you're happy that it's all good enough then go for the wash. Because the wash changes the color of the paint underneath it's much harder to do touch up after the wash.

Wot ‘e said.

Looking good so far. You might consider going round them again with some paint, but look at them from a different angle? Sometimes you miss areas when they are ‘hiding’ under overhangs etc.

Thanks heaps, ill show you again when iv finished every thing marines + rhinos.

cheers

Getting spray is definitely an advantage to brush basecoats.
If you're unsure just get some cheaper car acrylic sprays and practice on things like spare sprues and sheets of scrap wood.
Go with short bursts about a foot away and just try things out till you're comfy.

As to washes on black...unfortunately it's pretty much impossible to shade black with a wash.
You can sort of stain it...but that's no the same.
My suggestion is if you want to shade black get yourself some Vallejo black grey (you can thin this with a little water as they have strong pigmentation). Paint the model with that and you can then use Nuln Oil in all the crevices to shade it.
It'll be black...but not black black.

I'd suggest the opposite - spray base coats are a liability because you can't touch them up later. Even with systems like army painter where the spray and regular paint are supposed to match they never really do.

Spray primer is awesome though.

Yeah wel to late now really iv done 3 thin black coats 3-4. any way heres a update. Did those troops aswell ( i didn't do the already painted troops, i did the ones just with the gold on them with black and nothing else )


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in the first pic you can see some of the marines i stripped paint from that are now painted black.W

It is a good start!

There is definitely more that you do though, here are a few ideas for you.

Go over each guy looking for details to pic out - the mechanical bits of their weapons, their shoulder pad decorations, the grills on their chests and their belt buckles. Don't forget to wash these parts afterwards. There are also some guys with bare heads that need their skin painting.

The same with the vehicles, look for exhausts and other mechanical bits. Consider putting a tiny spot of silver on each rivet and then putting a spot of wash on it.

Do you people usually apply any thing after you have finished painting to protect your model from damage, like e.g, Varnish( saw that on google)?. I was thinking since i have already painted quite a bit if i could try "save" what i have done or atleast try. But if this varnish/protectionthing makes it extremely hard to remove the paint (incase you want to repaint oneday), then i probably woudln't want to use it.

Thanks.

Yes, varnish protects the paint but is also hard to remove.

I would suggest skipping it for now - if you keep practicing you'll improve a lot over the coming year so you may well end up stripping and re-painting stuff.

Once you've got to the point that you're really happy with your painting then you definitely want to start using varnish.

All you really need to know about varnish is that gloss varnish is thick but looks rubbish, matte is thin but looks good. The solution is gloss and then matte.

I really want to preserve what iv done even if its not as good as it would be had i primed it, so would you say if i use gloss then matte it would possible protect it very well?? remeber i did 3-4 coats of thinned black paint (base)

 Stormatious wrote:
I really want to preserve what iv done even if its not as good as it would be had i primed it, so would you say if i use gloss then matte it would possible protect it very well?? remeber i did 3-4 coats of thinned black paint (base)

Yep, gloss will give you strong protection and then the matte will make it look good.

Make sure to let the gloss dry fully (check the instructions) before you go for the matte.

This gloss you speak of seems strange, what part will the gloss play? it wont make it all shiny will it? cant i just put only matte on?, thanks

The gloss will make it super shiny and it'll look terrible but gloss varnish is much thicker than matte. Matte varnish isn't very strong but it will give you a nice finish. This is why gloss and then matte is ideal.

Also, if you use decals then you should gloss varnish before you put the decals on (to make the surface nice and smooth) and then again afterwards to protect the decal from the matte varnish which would make them go cloudy.

Hi S,

Those models are coming together nicely - you must have put a lot of work in recently!

I’d agree with what has been posted already about varnish, it is good once you happy with the paint job. It might be an idea to ask at the local GW if they can show you examples of matte, gloss and satin vanished figures. Then you can decide on a finish you like.

@Scott-S6 Hi, just to say good idea vis the gloss varnish and decals, consider it looted! Though latest info on modern varnishes (chap did an in-depth for WI I think) is that the gloss-then-matte is no longer necessary. PM me if you would like a copy of the article.

you know what.... this sucks but im gonna paint strip every thing and just prime it all black?, or should i prime it a light colour black so i can use a black wash or just black prime it and use highlights and only wash the detail areas?


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i dont know what to do, but i hate the brush marks on the tanks. so yeh