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Made in gb
Trigger-Happy Baal Predator Pilot




Leeds UK

Hi Everyone. So having seen a couple of posts here about painting with washes i thought i would give it a try with some cultists for assassinorum. I am using army painter shades and have applied one undiluted coat of the red blue and green as seen in the pic but the colour is very pale. I am thinking of either hitting them with another coat of the same colour or maybe actually shading them with black or brown wash then adding a glaze to strengthen the colour.

Any thoughts?
[Thumb - 20180813_190622.jpg]

   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




Halandri

Base them with Zandri Dust instead of white. Drybrush tyrant stone to pick out some edges.

Now you have a nice gradient you can apply the washes.
   
Made in fi
Hoary Long Fang with Lascannon




Finland

If you want stronger shadows apply a coat of Agrax earthshade (Strong Tone?) before you do the colors. If you want a richer color after that, you can try GW glaze colors. Or just another coat of the colored shade. Priming white is fine.

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Made in au
[MOD]
Making Stuff






Under the couch

The army painter tones darken up exponentially when you add multiple layers, so I'd try another coat before trying brown or black over the top.

 
   
Made in gb
Trigger-Happy Baal Predator Pilot




Leeds UK

Thanks for the advice everyone i will try another coat first and see how it looks. I do think the initial result would have been better if i had either primed darker and drybrushed up or primed white then washed dark so definitely something to bear in mind if i try this again.
   
Made in us
Fixture of Dakka





Doing some pre-shading helps a lot. But getting strong, vibrant colors means using multiple coats of washes; one coat will almost always be pale, or even pastel.

I always recommend getting some cheap plastic armymen to experiment with before committing to a new technique on much more expensive hobby miniatures...

CHAOS! PANIC! DISORDER!
My job here is done. 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





I did a little bit of ork painting with washes, and multiple layers were definately needed to get significant depth of color.
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut





Nottingham

You can use inks as well, which have a much higher concentration of pigment than washes.

Have a look at my P&M blog - currently working on Sons of Horus

Have a look at my 3d Printed Mierce Miniatures

Previous projects
30k Iron Warriors (11k+)
Full first company Crimson Fists
Zone Mortalis (unfinished)
Classic high elf bloodbowl team 
   
Made in fi
Locked in the Tower of Amareo





 Vulcan wrote:
I always recommend getting some cheap plastic armymen to experiment with before committing to a new technique on much more expensive hobby miniatures...


Naah stripping paint is so easy that I find that waste. Different scales work differently with different techniques so might just as well try technique on intended scale.

2024 painted/bought: 109/109 
   
Made in gb
Trigger-Happy Baal Predator Pilot




Leeds UK

Done another layer of green and red and its definitely getting there now. I plan to finish blocking in these three colours then tidy up the white and do flesh and browns, then black and metallic paints for the guns and boots. Not decided which metallic for the guns yet.
[Thumb - 20180816_203011.jpg]

   
Made in us
Fixture of Dakka





tneva82 wrote:
 Vulcan wrote:
I always recommend getting some cheap plastic armymen to experiment with before committing to a new technique on much more expensive hobby miniatures...


Naah stripping paint is so easy that I find that waste. Different scales work differently with different techniques so might just as well try technique on intended scale.


I find stripping to be a pain, especially getting all the little bits out of the details. But if you don't the old paint clogs them up...

Few bits of advice work for everyone. If it doesn't work for you feel free to ignore it. But let the OP try it for himself and decide.

CHAOS! PANIC! DISORDER!
My job here is done. 
   
Made in gb
Incorporating Wet-Blending




U.k

Pershading with rattle cans works too. My cultists for death guard were sprayed Caliban green all over then zandri dust from above. A grad earthshade then the colours. Did highlight the flesh a bit after too.
[Thumb - image.jpg]

   
Made in gb
Incorporating Wet-Blending




U.k

These two were camoshade after earthshade on the armour. Works great. The red was red ink mixed with Agrax earthshade. Two coats.
[Thumb - image.jpg]

   
Made in us
Utilizing Careful Highlighting





Augusta GA

I would recommend doing all your base colors first before starting with the washes. Otherwise you are going to get metal or flesh on your finished cloth, and it probably won’t look right if you try and fix it.

I definitely recommend starting with something like bone or ivory instead of pure white. You get a richer color, and you can drybrush on a brighter white for easy highlights after the wash.

Washing them with a brown shade first is something else I recommend. It gives better depth, and more realistic looking shadows.

Here’s some Poxwalkers I did with nothing but green and brown washes over a bone basecoat. Cranked out around 40 of them in batches over a day or two.
Spoiler:
   
Made in fi
Locked in the Tower of Amareo





 Vulcan wrote:
tneva82 wrote:
 Vulcan wrote:
I always recommend getting some cheap plastic armymen to experiment with before committing to a new technique on much more expensive hobby miniatures...


Naah stripping paint is so easy that I find that waste. Different scales work differently with different techniques so might just as well try technique on intended scale.


I find stripping to be a pain, especially getting all the little bits out of the details. But if you don't the old paint clogs them up...

Few bits of advice work for everyone. If it doesn't work for you feel free to ignore it. But let the OP try it for himself and decide.


Not sure what it's called in english but stuff you put on those portable ovens you take while hiking. Seems like high % of alcohol. Short soak there and paint literally runs away completely with toothbrush. Just used it to get rid of paint of about 100 blood angels and they are totally paint free now. Quick, easy, metal, plastic, resin, no damage, no paint residue.

Not sure how varnish would affect but I doubt OP is varnishing test pieces anyway.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2018/08/18 06:19:47


2024 painted/bought: 109/109 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





When painting with washes I'd do a quick zenithal highlight first. Prime with dark grey, then highlight light grey/white. Then apply shades.
   
Made in gb
Trigger-Happy Baal Predator Pilot




Leeds UK

Thanks for the tips everyone, loads of stuff for me to try next time. Heres the current wip, some black details to finish and a few colours need another coat but definitely getting there.
[Thumb - 20180820_201507.jpg]

   
Made in us
Fixture of Dakka





Very nice.

CHAOS! PANIC! DISORDER!
My job here is done. 
   
Made in fi
Hoary Long Fang with Lascannon




Finland

Matter of preference, but I'd probably use different shades of brown and grey and maybe one or at most two "brighter" colors per miniature. They look a little bit too colorful to my taste.

7000+
3500
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Made in gb
Trigger-Happy Baal Predator Pilot




Leeds UK

Almost finished now, just need to give the bases a dry brush and paint the rims once the wash is dry.
[Thumb - 20180827_183653.jpg]

   
 
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