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I've been using green stuff for the first time to make some custom Chaos troops and I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for easy things to start with.

Here are the three models I've been working on so far - any feedback on how I'm doing would be appreciated.

The first is an aspiring champion with a mutated tentacle arm bursting through his suit


the second is another aspiring champion with a loincloth type thing and a possessed shoulderpad


the third is an icon bearer with a loincloth thing


The idea for my army is that mutations are a sign that the unit is destined for great things, so gets promoted up to aspiring champions and HQs or get the honour of carrying an icon

edit: added better images

A few thoughts

Photography:
1) You need light on the model as its nearly impossible to see what you've done to these models. If you don't have a flash then get the light through the window behind you and the model so that the light is shining onto the model as much as possible without you shadowing it when taking the photo.

2) Step back a little; getting right up close can often end up with the camera focusing on the wrong part or unable to focus close enough moving back a little will still show all the detail and has a better chance of the focus locking on and not being too close to focus.



Greenstuff - as said its hard to see what you have done so these are some general GS pointers

1) Water - keep any tools wet when working with GS as this helps them work on the material without the GS sticking to the tool.
You can also use normal vegitable oil which has the bonus that it will remain on the tool for longer, but you will have to wash the model with warm lightly soapy water and a soft/worn toothbrush otherwise the oil might prevent glue and paint sticking correctly. NOTE wait until the GS is fully cured before washing - so leave the model at least 24 hours.

2) Colourshapers/Clayshapers - these are a godsend for working with GS. They are silicon tipped tools that let you rub over areas of GS and transitions from GS to the model and let you get a very smooth finish - a bit like using your finger but without the fingerprint problems.
Note that they come in different shapes and harness - if you only get one then a black (firmest) or grey (middle) cone would be my choice; though a pack of 5 shapes in each colour (white, grey, black) isn't a huge cost and they should last you years (just don't get glue on them).

3) Little is more and building up with layers works better than trying to take stuff off a model. This is a big thing, its much easier to add to most models than it is to scrip GS off so work with as little as you can and build up any effect with layers.

Of course some shapes have to be done with a certain amount and things like tubes you have to make in a single segment.

Thanks for the advice. I've uploaded better quality images so hopefully it'll be a bit clearer. I'm not a fan of how the possessed arm guard turned out so I think that will need more work

I have some wax carving tools that I've been using but I don't think I've got the hang of them yet. I'll try layering more as well - I think that's where I've been going wrong

Mix with milliput. Cures faster and harder.

I'm by no means an expert, but there's a couple of things I noticed. 1 - fingerprints, 2 - not enough 'volume' (for lack of a better word); the cloth and tentacles are a little flat, clinging to the surfaces they are attached to rather than standing out on their own.

A really simple way to fix both of these things is let your greenstuff cure a little before applying it to the model. Shape the greenstuff into the vague form (rolled flat for cloth, little sausage shapes for tentacles etc.) then let it sit for about 2 hours. Then it should be hard enough that you won't really have to worry about fingerprints, and it will be a lot better at holding its shape. If the greenstuff is in the basic form that you want it to be, it will remain soft enough to fit it to the model for at least 4 hours, and it will be much easier to work with.