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Made in us
Beast of Nurgle





Im starting a new 40k project with some Primaris marines. Im painting them up in the Flesh Tearers color scheme and when it comes to recess shading im debating between three methods. Wondering would get the best results for a clean and attractive mode?

1. Using Agrax Earthshade or Nuln Oil painted with a detail brush.
2. Using a mixture of watered down Khorne Red and Abbadon Black painted into the recesses.
3. Using a micron pen and drawing in the recesses.



Armies
Death Guard - 2017
Dark Eldar - 2015
Space Wolves - 2009
Orks - 2006 (sold)
 
   
Made in gb
Blood Angel Terminator with Lightning Claws





Cloud City, Bespin

Are you talking about pin washing?

I think it would be far easier to paint the base colour then do an all over wash with agrax and go over the model again with the base colour, it may seem an extra step and a waste of paint but it’s far easier to do than pin washing on a figure rather than a large vehicle

 queen_annes_revenge wrote:
Straight out if the pot, bang it on. What else is there to know?
 DV8 wrote:
Blood Angels Furioso Dreadnought should also be double-fisted.
 
   
Made in us
Contagious Dreadnought of Nurgle






I personally go with a black pinwash on power armor models. With the Primaris models it's really easy to use a black ink or wash to draw a line in each crack and recess and wherever the panels run into each other. I use an airbrush to lay down my base color so this helps me quickly add visual distinction and contrast while preserving the smooth base coat.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
 Rybrook wrote:
Are you talking about pin washing?

I think it would be far easier to paint the base colour then do an all over wash with agrax and go over the model again with the base colour, it may seem an extra step and a waste of paint but it’s far easier to do than pin washing on a figure rather than a large vehicle


Totally disagree, I find that pinwashing is faster and easier than an overall wash and repainting the base color.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2018/12/06 18:26:43


 
   
Made in us
Lieutenant General





Florence, KY

Have you seen the Warhammer TV Flesh Tearers tutorial?

Spoiler:


'It is a source of constant consternation that my opponents
cannot correlate their innate inferiority with their inevitable
defeat. It would seem that stupidity is as eternal as war.'

- Nemesor Zahndrekh of the Sautekh Dynasty
Overlord of the Crownworld of Gidrim
 
   
Made in gb
Blood Angel Terminator with Lightning Claws





Cloud City, Bespin

After watching that then it really depends on the colour used as a base,

Then again that was his basic tabletop finish
[Thumb - E76CBF71-0A06-4503-A997-756352C20723.jpeg]

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2018/12/06 18:37:59


 queen_annes_revenge wrote:
Straight out if the pot, bang it on. What else is there to know?
 DV8 wrote:
Blood Angels Furioso Dreadnought should also be double-fisted.
 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





Riverside, CA USA

I will forever sing the praises of enamel washes, they're freaking magic in a bottle. You slather them on, let them air dry, then rub the model with a q-tip or paper towel dipped in Odorless Mineral Spirits/ODM and it leaves behind super clean, nearly perfect panel lining. The only downside is they're oil based so you need the ODM to clean up the brushes, and you can't use the same brush as your regular acrylic paints (fortunately the cheapy synthetic brushes are great for enamel). Check ebay for Mig PLW or Mig Panel Line Wash. Or go with Blue-Black wash if you want a more stark blackline look

The mini below is before and after the wash, the difference in time spent is is about 30 seconds to slap on the all-over wash, another 30 seconds to hit it with my hair dryer (takes about 20ish minutes otherwise, same as any acrylic wash) then about 2 minutes with the q-tip. You can do the wash before highlights or after highlights, the ODM won't disolve the acrylic at all but will wipe away the enamel paint cleanly. It's incredibly easy, nobody at my FLGS believed me until I got fed up and brought a few minis down to show everyone in person how easy it is, now they're all sold on it


~Kalamadea (aka ember)
My image gallery 
   
Made in us
Contagious Dreadnought of Nurgle






Oil washes are definitely another good way to shade a model without having to paint the base color over again. Just goes to show that there are many different ways to achieve the same results and it's all about what you're comfortable with. I'm all about saving steps where I can so I'd prefer to do a pinwash or oil wash instead of an overall acrylic wash, but none of them are wrong.

 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





Riverside, CA USA

Oil washes are great, but enamel has some distinct advantages on space marines over oil. Oil washes need to be mixed each time, which some people find daunting, and need to go over a gloss varnish or they stain the paint below. Enamels are pre-mixed and can be applied right over the regular acrylic paint without a gloss coat first. They also wipe away with a harsher edge, which is great for mechanical stuff like vehicles and power armor.

Oil is far superior for rounded shapes like skin and cloth and fur, it leaves a softer edge that can be further blended out for a really smooth transition. I still use oil washes for anything organic, but for marines I recommend enamels.

~Kalamadea (aka ember)
My image gallery 
   
Made in us
Contagious Dreadnought of Nurgle






I wasn't even thinking about the difference, thanks for the clarification. I'll personally stick to pinwashing with acrylics but if I was looking for an alternative enamel washes sound like a good way to go.

 
   
Made in us
Legendary Master of the Chapter






 Kalamadea wrote:
Oil washes are great, but enamel has some distinct advantages on space marines over oil. Oil washes need to be mixed each time, which some people find daunting, and need to go over a gloss varnish or they stain the paint below. Enamels are pre-mixed and can be applied right over the regular acrylic paint without a gloss coat first. They also wipe away with a harsher edge, which is great for mechanical stuff like vehicles and power armor.

Oil is far superior for rounded shapes like skin and cloth and fur, it leaves a softer edge that can be further blended out for a really smooth transition. I still use oil washes for anything organic, but for marines I recommend enamels.


Are the marines above done in blue black?

Iv wanted to try out enamel washes so i just got some of that deep brown panel mig for some blood ravens. cant wait to give it a go.

is it possible to blend the edges?




 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in gb
Thane of Dol Guldur





Bodt

For flesh tearers, I'd glaze down with carroburg crimson/lahmain medium into your recesses, then maybe a couple of layers of nuln oil/lahmain medium for deep shadow

Heresy World Eaters/Emperors Children

Instagram: nagrakali_love_songs 
   
Made in us
Colonel





This Is Where the Fish Lives

 Desubot wrote:
is it possible to blend the edges?
Kinda.

Enamels don’t blend and feather like oils do, but you can soften the edge a little bit.

 d-usa wrote:
"When the Internet sends its people, they're not sending their best. They're not sending you. They're not sending you. They're sending posters that have lots of problems, and they're bringing those problems with us. They're bringing strawmen. They're bringing spam. They're trolls. And some, I assume, are good people."
 
   
Made in us
Legendary Master of the Chapter






 ScootyPuffJunior wrote:
 Desubot wrote:
is it possible to blend the edges?
Kinda.

Enamels don’t blend and feather like oils do, but you can soften the edge a little bit.


Cool thanks.

i will keep that in mind while experimenting.

 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





Riverside, CA USA

 Desubot wrote:
 Kalamadea wrote:
Oil washes are great, but enamel has some distinct advantages on space marines over oil. Oil washes need to be mixed each time, which some people find daunting, and need to go over a gloss varnish or they stain the paint below. Enamels are pre-mixed and can be applied right over the regular acrylic paint without a gloss coat first. They also wipe away with a harsher edge, which is great for mechanical stuff like vehicles and power armor.

Oil is far superior for rounded shapes like skin and cloth and fur, it leaves a softer edge that can be further blended out for a really smooth transition. I still use oil washes for anything organic, but for marines I recommend enamels.


Are the marines above done in blue black?

Iv wanted to try out enamel washes so i just got some of that deep brown panel mig for some blood ravens. cant wait to give it a go.

is it possible to blend the edges?





The ultramarines are an AK Interactive dark brown wash, they act virtually identical to Mig PLW, but aren't available in as many color options as Mig PLW. These are bendy vinyl pre-painted 1/400 Gundam figs I did with the Blue-Black, side-by-side as they come out of the package next to just a wash & q-tip cleanup. As Scooty said you can do a LITTLE bit of blending with enamel washes and they do leave behind a little bit of residue that'll darken the paint. You can completely remove all traces with a brush in ODM, but smooth transitions are not easy to do like they are with homemade washes using oil paint thinned with ODM. The good news is that if you have ODM and synthetic brushes for enamel washes, you just need to grab a tube of oil paint and you have everything you need to also do oil washes

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2018/12/06 21:50:25


~Kalamadea (aka ember)
My image gallery 
   
Made in us
Beast of Nurgle





I finished up my first test model last night. Went with the pinwash with nuln oil. Fairly please with the results.

https://imgur.com/LuAzrit

https://imgur.com/RTJaY4P

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2018/12/07 16:26:37


Armies
Death Guard - 2017
Dark Eldar - 2015
Space Wolves - 2009
Orks - 2006 (sold)
 
   
Made in us
Contagious Dreadnought of Nurgle






Looks nice, when you come in for highlights it will cover up any over spill. Having the black in those recesses makes a big difference.

 
   
 
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