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Made in us
Member of the Ethereal Council






So I'm looking to sell/ship my Legions of nagash army, built and everything, how would one go about that? Do I get a bit box, bubble wrap them in layers and ship it? I never shipped something this large.

5000pts 6000pts 3000pts
 
   
Made in gb
[MOD]
Villanous Scum







I have shipped quite large lots in the past with out any issues and generally I line a box with bubble wrap, parcel the miniatures together in bubblewrap so they form solid shapes (for example with spearmen I would lay one model on top of another so the spearshafts rest along the length of the other models body and thus cant snap) making as many of these parcels as needed but keeping them small enough that they can be bound tightly and not have room for the models to shift against each other. Finally fill the box with the little parcels and then fill any voids with airpockets or packing peanuts. Give it a brief shake and if there are any rattles then go back through and eliminate them.
I shipped a large Uruk-Hai army with loads of pikes to Canada (edit; I am in NZ not the US like my flag says at the moment!) without a single breakage this way. Though its not going to be fun with swirly stuff on a death army.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2019/03/05 00:21:22


On parle toujours mal quand on n'a rien à dire. 
   
Made in nz
Longtime Dakkanaut





Near Jupiter.

Yeah, i would say also wrapping each model individually in bubble wrap then put heaps of screwed up paper or paper towels in the box and on the sides etc, then throw all the models in the middle, i did that and no problems at all with about 10 dark angels bikes ( they have reasonably fragile wings pointing upwards ).

Edit - and just try get a reasonably solid box, maybe put a box inside another box to give the walls a bit more strength for shipping. And make sure all the bubble wrapped models are packed in touching each-other so theirs no room for movement. ( edit - Not the models them selves touching, but the bubble wrap around the models touching.)

This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2019/03/05 00:46:24


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Made in gb
[MOD]
Villanous Scum







 Stormatious wrote:
Yeah, i would say also wrapping each model individually in bubble wrap then put heaps of screwed up paper or paper towels in the box and on the sides etc, then throw all the models in the middle, i did that and no problems at all with about 10 dark angels bikes ( they have reasonably fragile wings pointing upwards ).


Really don't do this, if you wrap models individually any protuberances are liable to break, if you lay models ontop of each so the majority of their body is covering such bits (like out thrust swords or spears) then it would take a force needed to snap a whole model in half in order to break it. Also dont use paper as packing because it crushes and after it crushes your models are free to move around and thus break.

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Made in nz
Longtime Dakkanaut





Near Jupiter.

 ingtaer wrote:
 Stormatious wrote:
Yeah, i would say also wrapping each model individually in bubble wrap then put heaps of screwed up paper or paper towels in the box and on the sides etc, then throw all the models in the middle, i did that and no problems at all with about 10 dark angels bikes ( they have reasonably fragile wings pointing upwards ).


Really don't do this, if you wrap models individually any protuberances are liable to break, if you lay models ontop of each so the majority of their body is covering such bits (like out thrust swords or spears) then it would take a force needed to snap a whole model in half in order to break it. Also dont use paper as packing because it crushes and after it crushes your models are free to move around and thus break.



Not in my experience, if you wrap the bubble wrap quite loosely with out letting it grip the model too tight and chuck 1 little bit of celetape to seal it, then put them all in a pile inside a box so there all the bubble wrap it touching slightly, it gives a nice solid core where the models don't move at all and have heaps of protection, with extra padding on the sides ( screwed paper etc ).


Maye im explaining it wrong, but i don't know why you think this is wrong lol. ( any way im a noob and intgaer has alot more experience, but im just saying, when i shipped mine that way there were no problems. )

Have a good day

This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2019/03/05 01:02:03


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Made in ca
Fixture of Dakka





Surrey, BC - Canada

I wrap each individual model in bubble wrap, secure with a little tape and repeat slowly fitting them together so there is no rattling when finished. All in a strong box with every seam taped for protection against leaking models.

Cheers,

CB

   
Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut




UK

A few further points.

1) Take CLEAR photos of the whole army, being sure to take individual photos of any big/expensive/delicate models

2) Take a photo of each model as you've wrapped it for packing and then a complete photo of all the models packed into the box.

3) Research your courier companies and choose one with a reliable service and which offers insurance cover on the shipping. You will likely have to pay more (your buyer will) but its money well spent to make sure it all arrives. At the very least make sure its signed for upon delivery*. You then know that the package has arrived at its destination.
Note many signed for delivery services also come with parcel tracking - another important aspect in keeping an eye on the parcel and being sure it has arrived (and also being aware if any mistakes happen along the way)

The photos are not just to show the client who is buying the models, but is also proof that you had them in good condition, packed and wrapped them properly and put them in the box. If damage takes place then:
a) If its very minor your customer knows that you did your best to protect the models when packing them.

b) If significant/extreme damage to items and box has taken place you've evidence to prove your case when you contact the shipping company regarding insurance and making a claim on the contents. The photos also help you itemise the sale so that you can prove its value (not many ask how much the items are worth roughly before you ship them so be accurate in this estimation).

Remember the shipping firms contract is with you not the customer buying your models; so any problems with shipping have to be raised by and dealt with you.


Most of the models I've bought come wrapped in bubblewrap on their own. Now some people add a layer of stickytape to keep the bubblewrap from unwrapping - try to avoid doing this! Whilst its perfectly fine for packing its a danger when unpacking because it means the person buying has to cut each model out of its little cocoon, which puts it at a serious risk of damage (esp if its a fragile model with lots of bits all around it. If you've packed it well they won't unwrap in transport anyway so the tape shouldn't be needed. If you are going to use tape only use a litle over the join area and make it something that is bright and clear - insulation tape is good as its sticky and stands out so that person opening can see where it is very clearly! For all that is good in the world don't wrap the model in multiple rings of tape!!


If you have anything like the Black Coach - Good luck packing it! Far as I can see it looks like a nightmare to pack with all the ghost models half hanging off it!

*this isn't as good as it used to be because the digital tablet are basically useless to sign - most people put an X or a wriggle and I've known once or twice delivery people will just squiggle in the box themselves when handing the package over since - basically - there's no way to prove who's squiggle is who's.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2019/03/05 01:19:19


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Made in us
Ship's Officer





Dallas, TX

I eat a lot of eggs, so I use egg crates to pack infantry models, they still needs to be packed well with peanuts and taped down so it doesn't move around, but I feel secure know that spear/lance/pikes won't be damaged in anyway when packed well this way.

Monster size models should be packed separately with bubble wrap; cavalry can be packed base-base in bubble wrap.
   
Made in gb
Calculating Commissar




Frostgrave

Try and sell it to someone within driving distance and meet up to hand-deliver?
   
Made in no
Longtime Dakkanaut






well what you are shipping is basicly as fragile as glass, so think as if you are shipping glass, aka it is more time consuming and can be a bit expensive to do.

basicly get a layer of foam inside all the sides of the box, then use thin foam or soft bubblewrap to wrap the models and secure with tape. if nessessary tuck in a small foam peanut before you wrap it.
place the biggest or heaviest models in the bottom of the shipping box and just layer it tightly from there.
when all models are in the box top it off with bubblewrap or foam. you dont want any models to be moving around in there. it allso helps if you lable the box with Fragile and This Side Up.


finaly, when you send preassembled models in the mail, you can never be 100% guaranteed that there wont be some things that has broken off in trasit. the moust common thing to break of is the base or parts that as a small contact point.
you need to make the reciver of the package aware of this.

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Made in gb
Dakka Veteran





I tend to go over the top with mine, but I tend to sell entire armies at a time for upwards of £600.

I wrap models seperate in bubble wrap, the entire box has 3 layers of bubble wrap, models they fit in to fill any gaps.
Excess space is filled with even more bubble wrap.

Ontop of this, I use 2 box's, 1 slightly smaller than the other.
I find you can layer the large box in bubble wrap and put the 2nd box inside it, this offers more protection and a damaged outer box (royal mail are hopeless in the UK) doesn't result in damaged models.
This also allows me to put books inside the first box as their weight makes them a liability near models.

As a side note, keep metal models and plastic seperate, I've used 2 box's inside a larger box before to keep plastic and metal models apart.
A large, chunky metal model is still a liability, despite how much bubble wrap has been used.


That's how I package every army I sell and I've yet to have anything broken when it gets to a customer.
While it's slightly OTT, it's reassurance on my part that they will make it.
Worst was shipping a £1,950 mechanicum army to someone in Germany.
I went even heavier on that to be safe, but no issues with it.



Essentially - nothing in that box should move, keep heavy models away from light models, keep books seperate.
   
Made in us
Keeper of the Flame





Monticello, IN

How do you ship an entire army? Make them Slannesh.


Oh, not THAT kind of ship...




Bubble wrap is your friend, if you can't get some foam rubber sheets from the craft store.

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Made in us
Decrepit Dakkanaut





The Battle Barge Buffet Line

I've shipped and received several armies over the years and I've found personally only two methods that are adequate if you want the buyer to not complain about an excessive amount of broken models.

The first is to simply bubble wrap each miniature (painted or not) individually and put them in a sturdy box that also has a solid lining of bubble wrap with the heaviest models on the bottom. It's more time intensive but it results in typically only a few broken models (typically metal ones with outstretched arms with thin attachment points like Mr. Pointy McSpear Eldar guys).

Alternately, if you have a proper foam case that you store the models in, I typically sell the case with the army (obviously include its value in the price). If you're not doubling up in slots or just dumping whole squads into vehicle spots willy nilly, you can just ship the case wrapped in brown paper as is. Even the brown paper is optional just to avoid scratches and too much scrutiny by paranoid post office employees who think you're sending guns in the mail.

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Osprey Reader






I've shipped a ton of models, using bubble wrap, packing peanuts and foam army transports combined. The company you're shipping with WILL eventually decide to play soccer with your models. Have your pre shipping photos ready.
   
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Krazed Killa Kan






Columbus, Oh

based on how models arrive when I am getting them..

take all the metal models, put them ALL in one large ziploc back. No padding. No wrapping.

Put all the plastic models in another gallon ziploc, once again, padding is for wusses.

Put the bag of plastics in first. Drop the metals in on top, ideally from at least 3 foot height.

Seal box.. packing peanuts are a waste of time.

Shake box to make a rattling sound that soothes your soul.

Ship with minimal tape.

(sigh)

2+2=5 for sufficiently large values of 2.

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