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Made in qa
Fresh-Faced New User




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Hello all! Hows everyone doing?

I'm just about to finish filing and removing mold lines for my first squad of Ork boyz (from start collecting)

As for assembly/painting, I was wondering how you ork vets plan this out. I know it boils down to personal preference, but I'm definitely open to suggestions.


So far my personal preference is to assemble the entire model except for the right arm holding the gun so I can paint the chest, however as well as this works for SM, Orks have a different posture and was wondering if it would be as easy.

Cheers!
cmcorms

Warhammer 40k Army List
- Space Wolves Primaris
- Blood Angels
- Orks
- Death Guard

New to the hobby, feel free to make suggestions! 
   
Made in us
Grumpy Longbeard






Have never assembled orks me self, yet sometimes I would assemble miniatures with the torso arms and head together and leave the legs out. Do you think working on the legs separately would allow ez enough access to the undercuts for the rest of the model?

 
   
Made in gb
[DCM]
Fireknife Shas'el





Leicester

It’s been a while since I batch painted Orks, but definitely leave the gun arm off; I seem to remember painting the heads separately too, as they block off the neck area a bit

DS:80+S+GM+B+I+Pw40k08D+A++WD355R+T(M)DM+
 Zed wrote:
*All statements reflect my opinion at this moment. if some sort of pretty new model gets released (or if I change my mind at random) I reserve the right to jump on any bandwagon at will.
 
   
Made in qa
Fresh-Faced New User




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 Jadenim wrote:
It’s been a while since I batch painted Orks, but definitely leave the gun arm off; I seem to remember painting the heads separately too, as they block off the neck area a bit


Yea thats what I was kindof concerned about as well.... It doesnt block muuuch but compared to SM it's quite a bit. Just a different posture all together really.

Warhammer 40k Army List
- Space Wolves Primaris
- Blood Angels
- Orks
- Death Guard

New to the hobby, feel free to make suggestions! 
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




fully assemble here, then prime, in my case that German tank yellow (armour is yellow and the skin green covers it well enough), TBH the bits that are impossible to get to with a brush in that yellow blend in with the armour or are bits you never see anyway.

Find with orks painting in bits, unless you want a seriously top end paint job, simply isn't worth the trouble
   
Made in ie
Regular Dakkanaut




I always fully assemble everything, and only then worry about the painting. :-)

5000p 4000p 4000p 2500p 4000p 750p GSC 1500p

 
   
Made in ca
Regular Dakkanaut





Step 1 glue prep clean

Step 2 spray under coating light grey.

Step 3 Scour or sand your model with a toothbrush or sandpaper or buffer / etc

Step 4 go back to step 2 under coating again

Repeat scouring.

Step 5 wash models with nuln oil or black ink wash

6. Applying base coat, than scour again with the brush

7 application of second base coat.

8 Layer paint.

9 wash/ shades / glazes

10 highlights.

Done.

   
Made in ca
Fixture of Dakka





Surrey, BC - Canada

Wash the models first. Fully assemble and look for flash to remove. Then prime and paint.

I have done a few Orks, just check out my Ork Waaagh and see how it turns out.

Good luck,

CB

   
Made in ca
Regular Dakkanaut





Captain Brown wrote:
Wash the models first. Fully assemble and look for flash to remove. Then prime and paint.

I have done a few Orks, just check out my Ork Waaagh and see how it turns out.

Good luck,

CB


steps above expand on this. More important than you think.
   
Made in ie
Regular Dakkanaut




Why all that scouring? I don't mean any offense, but are you trolling or for realz? I've never heard anyone doing that before. And undercoat twice, why is that?

If I'm working on plastic models, I don't even bother washing them. I don't varnish them either, and my kids and their friends play with the models like any other toys, but paint doesn't seem to chip at all. Some 400+ plastic models done this way (with GW undercoat and GW paints)

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2019/03/13 11:08:46


5000p 4000p 4000p 2500p 4000p 750p GSC 1500p

 
   
Made in ca
Regular Dakkanaut





Zodfrey wrote:
Why all that scouring? I don't mean any offense, but are you trolling or for realz? I've never heard anyone doing that before. And undercoat twice, why is that?

If I'm working on plastic models, I don't even bother washing them. I don't varnish them either, and my kids and their friends play with the models like any other toys, but paint doesn't seem to chip at all. Some 400+ plastic models done this way (with GW undercoat and GW paints)


It comes from painting and varnishing furniture. It used to ensure an even coat of paint, make sure the paint stays on and it's highly effective at removing dust, debris, and smoothing paint.

When you're sanding /buffering/scouring between coats you ensure that the next coat has something to stick to, while removing the snow effect, the tiny little bumps you see on some models after spaying.

It honestly gets you better results on your final paint job. Your paint will stick better and look smoother.

Hopefully that makes sense to you.

Oh and as for the second coat, scouring will remove paint that did not stick to the model. Which is great imagine having to repaint the whole model down the road. So naturally you will need to coat the model again. You could go straight onto base coat after priming if you like, but you may not get an even color.

Hopefully that helps explain why you would want to scour/sand your models. For vehicles you will want to use a super fine grit, or buffing tools.






This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2019/03/13 17:50:26


 
   
Made in ie
Regular Dakkanaut




Thank you for the explanation. Totally makes sense. But also totally seems like too much work for me.

5000p 4000p 4000p 2500p 4000p 750p GSC 1500p

 
   
Made in ca
Regular Dakkanaut





Zodfrey wrote:
Thank you for the explanation. Totally makes sense. But also totally seems like too much work for me.


Everyone say that. Try it out takes a few extra minutes to do.
   
Made in fi
Locked in the Tower of Amareo





I paint them all glued up. They are easy enough to paint getting paint on the all the areas that are actually going to be visible.

2024 painted/bought: 109/109 
   
Made in ca
Regular Dakkanaut





If you're just looking for basic painting just spray them green add wash and don't worry about it. The above is advised because it works. I'm confused as why ask how to paint orcs and than bulk at the methods used. GW sells all of this stuff and provides basic beginning level painting tutorials.

Good luck. Maybe it only sounds complex when you start. I find that I get lazy learning new things if I don't write out a list and break things down into parts.





Beginner


Semi advanced ish






This message was edited 5 times. Last update was at 2019/03/15 18:59:35


 
   
Made in qa
Fresh-Faced New User




Qatar

Thanks all for the replies..... Its more or less of an organizational thing I suppose. I had a bit of a tricky time with painting completely glued SM on the account of the gun and arm over the chest. I understand a lot of people go with the "if you cant see it then it doesnt need painting" and thats completely fine but not really for me.

I just wanted to know how yous set up (prep) your mini's to paint them... I've seen a lot of different ways from painting on sprue to partially and fully assemble, and no right or wrong way to do it.... But figured if I can learn a thing or 2 from the vets who have done hundreds of models then maybe it will make my next paint job smoother and faster.

I think I have a specific way I want to approach em now (I've been working on my death guard in the mean time) Thanks for all the advice and tips! You're all beauties.

Cheers!

Warhammer 40k Army List
- Space Wolves Primaris
- Blood Angels
- Orks
- Death Guard

New to the hobby, feel free to make suggestions! 
   
 
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