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Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





Edgewood, Washington state

I've been collecting WHFB Orcs for the past two or three years since I love the sculpts and I am more interested in Fantasy than 40K or AoS.

I played my first game of WHFB 8th edition with my friend this past weekend, we played very small armies 1000pts. Very, very basic learning game for me.
What are some good tactics or suggestions when using lots of Orc boys and Black Orcs/Da Immortulz?
   
Made in de
Charging Orc Boar Boy





Germany

Let them feel the power of the Horde!

Playing 8th, your best shot is to make use of the Horde formation rules. Make a unit of Orks with additional Choppas REALLY large. They are cheap, so no problem
Take a Level 4 Spellcaster Orc and a Level 2 spellcaster Orc., and let the Level 2 roll first, so you have a higher probability for the Level 4 to get the good spells! Make use of Goblin war machinery! Doom Divers are fearsome.
Get yourself one or two of those huge squigs (what's the english expression for it? Chain Squigs? ).
Take Goblin Chariots. 2 Units of Wolf riders to divert attacks.Some Night Goblins to fill up the core. Make them also HUGE.
Add an Orc BSB in your big mob, and keep the Night Goblins close. You can use a small black orc unit as carrier for the Mage, as they will not bicker around as the other Orcs and spoil your magic phase. Nor will they run because of panic.



   
Made in gb
Highlord with a Blackstone Fortress






Adrift within the vortex of my imagination.

Listen up ya squig brained runt, knows how it is done.

Big question is where will you get da lads? Da spawning pits are closed now for most boyz and you need to focus on savage orcs or night gobbos if you wanna get ahead. Good though that these are clear favourites for most warbosses anyways.

Savage Orc Big'uns are the heart of the waargh, and you can still get 'em.
https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Savage-Orruks-2016
https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Gloomspite-Gitz-Grots-Shootas-2019
Now even da gobbos know not to get em there but to look around. But get some nite gobbo gits while at it.

However I didnt do that myself, I gots lots of regular boys while I could for theme. Do you do this too? If you you might have lots of lads with twin choppas and arrer boyz. You can work with dat, I dids. The trick first is not to join in when folks laugh at arrer boyz, they dont cost much, shoot as well as any humie and unlike a humie they dont cry when the foes get toe to toe. Everyone knows that you charge humie shooters and you gots them where you want them. If they charge arrer boys back you still gots them where you wants them. Just draw choppas and get stuck in. No armour, one choppa, who cares they are still orcs, they will still fight. Place arrer boys in five or six ranks and pile them deep so they last in the fight. Not too deep as the ladz at the back wont be in range, four or five ranks is enough. they stand there fire volleys, then stand and shoot and then crump 'eads. Arrer boys can get busy and they are fun. Note that their boss isnt a wimp either, no targeting skillz for him, he gets an extra attack like a real orc would. So where to put arrer boyz? I would put them in the middle but as a reserve, your orcs will need backup sooner or later, but no orc wants to be lurking about when there is fighting to be done, so arrer boyz make a good reserve, there when you need 'em.

Now as for the regular boys you need to call the docs. get bits from the multipart orc set, or from orks! and also from clever cutting and reposing. Then get to surgery, turn all those twin choppa orcs into choppa and shield. Choppa and shield is the way to go, 5+/6++ makes a difference and the extra attack does not, as it only effects the front rank. Leave twin choppas to da savage orcs and blorcs. Hordes are ok, but a horde of orcs is big. Yep sometimes I cannot resist but there is a lot of places for the foe to charge into you, and normally that makes you take more attacks than you can dish out. Best to deploy them deep, I would go six or seven wide as you want overlap if you can, but that depends on what you are facing and what you have to put in the front rank. Consider adding a hero, da big bosses cost a lot of teef and that is what people look at but making da front rank more killy is worth it.

Now I like black orcs and have lots, they can be effective but must be given proper support. Here is how to use em: unless you are fighting something really big always give the front rank two choppa attacks and give all other ranks one big choppa attack. Dat makes the most killyness.
Much though I like blorcs I must admit that trolls are the better heavy infantry. Take stonerz or common trolls never river trolls. Finding them can be hard though. Trolls need to be near the warboss and BSB at all times. Stupid is good in a way, as they never panic or get fear even when not stupid. In battle front rank spews, second rank smacks. Use trolls as breaks between orc blocks so that panic doesnt ripple through the ranks if you can, blocks also are good for this.

Now every warboss knows that you can get real good charges out of wolf chariots and mangler squigs are super-killy. They dont all know that you shouldnt take wolf riders though, take goblin big bosses on wolves, its cheaper and gets the same job done, and they can fit in tiny spaces to really get annoying. Dont underestimate how vicious a goblin wolf rider hero is, good at wizard nibbling, cannon munching, and chopping up little chaffy units the foe might throw out themselves. However for small any annoying nothing beat a pump wagon. they aren't quite as unstable as fanatics and manglers but the snotties never run away.

Other things people miss are pig wagons. If you have ordinary boys you likely picked up some yourself. They cost more than gobbo chariots for about the same charge and are slower, so the wolf carts get to shine. I am not so sure though. Pig wagons are tough, are nastier on the charge for da uvver stuff, boar attacks, two boys make a bit of difference, and while they dont get much killing done when locked in, they dont bleed easily either. Orc chariots can last on their own against light units and if you charge them in to back up the boys they can help you win outright and run them down. Wolf chariots dont have the same damage spike and are less reliable as close support.

Spear chukkas are also overlooked, doom divers are snazzy but spear chukkas get the real work done. Dont take one take four or more.

People say you should take huge blocks of gobbos. I say nah to dat. Once you have enough gobbos in a unit there comes a point when you should just give up on dat unit and take the same points in orcs instead. So I go different, I dont take large blocks of gobbos, I take 20, no more no less. Give em bows. Command group is not recommened as it costs half as much as the gobbos themselves, but I do so anyway from time to time because it looks good. But dont do what I do, do what I say. Take blocks of 20 gobbos with bows in four ranks, split them up in front and to the sides of the army, but away from each other and any artillery you have. Throw dem under da bus. Most armies have little chaff units of five or six fings, you use 20 gobbos instead. If they are ignored, they shoot, if charged they stand and shoot, and then get smacked, if they see enemy chaff they charge themselves and have full ranks, if you see something that needs taking they take it, and what the enemy has to send to take it back will take away far more from the battle line, if they see somethign dangerous, they can keep it away for a turn by getting under their feet/hooves/wheels whatever. They do everything except for winning and you dont mind dat, if they die or flee have a good laugh with da lads and carry on smacking.

Moscha has already told you how to use da great green. I would add that it can help to get a level 2 gobbo to back up the level 4 orc. Level 4's normally get the spells you want, in fact it is unlikely you will not be able to get a single spell of your choice, and most often will get any two. Dont double up on shaman to get something which is unreliable anyway. Instead get some little Waargh backup. Do not underestimate little Waargh, it has da cunnin' spells in it and they work on rocs as well as gobbos.

Finally read dis:

https://1d4chan.org/wiki/Warhammer/Tactics/8th_Edition/Orcs_%26_Goblins




n'oublie jamais - It appears I now have to highlight this again.

It is by tea alone I set my mind in motion. By the juice of the brew my thoughts aquire speed, my mind becomes strained, the strain becomes a warning. It is by tea alone I set my mind in motion. 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





Edgewood, Washington state

 Orlanth wrote:
Listen up ya squig brained runt, knows how it is done.

Big question is where will you get da lads? Da spawning pits are closed now for most boyz and you need to focus on savage orcs or night gobbos if you wanna get ahead. Good though that these are clear favourites for most warbosses anyways.

Savage Orc Big'uns are the heart of the waargh, and you can still get 'em.
https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Savage-Orruks-2016
https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Gloomspite-Gitz-Grots-Shootas-2019
Now even da gobbos know not to get em there but to look around. But get some nite gobbo gits while at it.

However I didnt do that myself, I gots lots of regular boys while I could for theme. Do you do this too? If you you might have lots of lads with twin choppas and arrer boyz. You can work with dat, I dids. The trick first is not to join in when folks laugh at arrer boyz, they dont cost much, shoot as well as any humie and unlike a humie they dont cry when the foes get toe to toe. Everyone knows that you charge humie shooters and you gots them where you want them. If they charge arrer boys back you still gots them where you wants them. Just draw choppas and get stuck in. No armour, one choppa, who cares they are still orcs, they will still fight. Place arrer boys in five or six ranks and pile them deep so they last in the fight. Not too deep as the ladz at the back wont be in range, four or five ranks is enough. they stand there fire volleys, then stand and shoot and then crump 'eads. Arrer boys can get busy and they are fun. Note that their boss isnt a wimp either, no targeting skillz for him, he gets an extra attack like a real orc would. So where to put arrer boyz? I would put them in the middle but as a reserve, your orcs will need backup sooner or later, but no orc wants to be lurking about when there is fighting to be done, so arrer boyz make a good reserve, there when you need 'em.

Now as for the regular boys you need to call the docs. get bits from the multipart orc set, or from orks! and also from clever cutting and reposing. Then get to surgery, turn all those twin choppa orcs into choppa and shield. Choppa and shield is the way to go, 5+/6++ makes a difference and the extra attack does not, as it only effects the front rank. Leave twin choppas to da savage orcs and blorcs. Hordes are ok, but a horde of orcs is big. Yep sometimes I cannot resist but there is a lot of places for the foe to charge into you, and normally that makes you take more attacks than you can dish out. Best to deploy them deep, I would go six or seven wide as you want overlap if you can, but that depends on what you are facing and what you have to put in the front rank. Consider adding a hero, da big bosses cost a lot of teef and that is what people look at but making da front rank more killy is worth it.

Now I like black orcs and have lots, they can be effective but must be given proper support. Here is how to use em: unless you are fighting something really big always give the front rank two choppa attacks and give all other ranks one big choppa attack. Dat makes the most killyness.
Much though I like blorcs I must admit that trolls are the better heavy infantry. Take stonerz or common trolls never river trolls. Finding them can be hard though. Trolls need to be near the warboss and BSB at all times. Stupid is good in a way, as they never panic or get fear even when not stupid. In battle front rank spews, second rank smacks. Use trolls as breaks between orc blocks so that panic doesnt ripple through the ranks if you can, blocks also are good for this.

Now every warboss knows that you can get real good charges out of wolf chariots and mangler squigs are super-killy. They dont all know that you shouldnt take wolf riders though, take goblin big bosses on wolves, its cheaper and gets the same job done, and they can fit in tiny spaces to really get annoying. Dont underestimate how vicious a goblin wolf rider hero is, good at wizard nibbling, cannon munching, and chopping up little chaffy units the foe might throw out themselves. However for small any annoying nothing beat a pump wagon. they aren't quite as unstable as fanatics and manglers but the snotties never run away.

Other things people miss are pig wagons. If you have ordinary boys you likely picked up some yourself. They cost more than gobbo chariots for about the same charge and are slower, so the wolf carts get to shine. I am not so sure though. Pig wagons are tough, are nastier on the charge for da uvver stuff, boar attacks, two boys make a bit of difference, and while they dont get much killing done when locked in, they dont bleed easily either. Orc chariots can last on their own against light units and if you charge them in to back up the boys they can help you win outright and run them down. Wolf chariots dont have the same damage spike and are less reliable as close support.

Spear chukkas are also overlooked, doom divers are snazzy but spear chukkas get the real work done. Dont take one take four or more.

People say you should take huge blocks of gobbos. I say nah to dat. Once you have enough gobbos in a unit there comes a point when you should just give up on dat unit and take the same points in orcs instead. So I go different, I dont take large blocks of gobbos, I take 20, no more no less. Give em bows. Command group is not recommened as it costs half as much as the gobbos themselves, but I do so anyway from time to time because it looks good. But dont do what I do, do what I say. Take blocks of 20 gobbos with bows in four ranks, split them up in front and to the sides of the army, but away from each other and any artillery you have. Throw dem under da bus. Most armies have little chaff units of five or six fings, you use 20 gobbos instead. If they are ignored, they shoot, if charged they stand and shoot, and then get smacked, if they see enemy chaff they charge themselves and have full ranks, if you see something that needs taking they take it, and what the enemy has to send to take it back will take away far more from the battle line, if they see somethign dangerous, they can keep it away for a turn by getting under their feet/hooves/wheels whatever. They do everything except for winning and you dont mind dat, if they die or flee have a good laugh with da lads and carry on smacking.

Moscha has already told you how to use da great green. I would add that it can help to get a level 2 gobbo to back up the level 4 orc. Level 4's normally get the spells you want, in fact it is unlikely you will not be able to get a single spell of your choice, and most often will get any two. Dont double up on shaman to get something which is unreliable anyway. Instead get some little Waargh backup. Do not underestimate little Waargh, it has da cunnin' spells in it and they work on rocs as well as gobbos.

Finally read dis:

https://1d4chan.org/wiki/Warhammer/Tactics/8th_Edition/Orcs_%26_Goblins





This is the best response I got.

I have been gathering lots of boyz from the land called "ebay". I probably have close to 50 or 60 boyz with choppa and shield. I have 40 boyz with double choppas.

Are Stone Trolls better because of magic resistance and scaly skin? I thought River Trolls with River/Marsh Strider and enemies suffering -1 to hit rolls because of troll stench?

Are Rock Lobbers good or should I stay with spear chucka?
   
Made in de
Charging Orc Boar Boy





Germany

Upgrading to River Trolls or Stone Trolls is fluffy, especially the old models of Stone Trolls, if you can find any, are my favorite unit!

But standard trolls will just be fine, some 8 of them, 4 wide and 2 deep, make a formidable combat unit. They are monstrous infantry, so the can attack with 3 attacks from the second rank too, totalling to 24 attacks with Strength 5 at full unit strength.

And they can stomp attack with 4 attacks S5.




Automatically Appended Next Post:
I preferred spear chuckas to rock lobbers until 7th.
with the rule that they have to roll on the misfire table when rolling a 1 to hit, made the spear chucka a bit less attractive than before. Still, it is a good choice.

A Rock lobber is very good against large enemy units, especially if they are ridden monsters. And against heavily armored infantry units, they are also practical. So got yourself one, or two, or three!

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2019/08/14 09:47:18


 
   
Made in gb
Highlord with a Blackstone Fortress






Adrift within the vortex of my imagination.

 Grensche wrote:


This is the best response I got.


Damn right, squidge da gunk outta yer ears, sit on dat rok, and keep listenin'.

 Grensche wrote:

I have been gathering lots of boyz from the land called "ebay". I probably have close to 50 or 60 boyz with choppa and shield. I have 40 boyz with double choppas.


Good raidin' grounds. Looks like you have it right, 40 is a minimum for an orc block, you have just enough for horde if you need to, and otherwise eight ranks. 50 is better but you dont need to go higher than that. Extra choppa boyz, if you want em could be used in small gangs, no more than twenty lads, probably less. If you take ten you have the same as a minimum block of runts, but get orcs. I would go with twelve, you want them in two ranks mostly and you want to hit things in the the flank. Extra choppa dont give you much. Two blocks of 50 with choppa and shield would serve you better, however orcs arer orcs, if you mix in a lot of da double choppa boyz, especially if you add shields to their backs, or snip off a choppa of uvvers and have some waving their shields in the air. You can make them all shielded orcs and make them look extra rowdy.

 Grensche wrote:

Are Stone Trolls better because of magic resistance and scaly skin? I thought River Trolls with River/Marsh Strider and enemies suffering -1 to hit rolls because of troll stench?


If you buy river trolls, paint them grey and shave off all the webbing and fish heads you can say whatever trolls they are. Common trolls are best, 10pts less for da same smackdown. River trolls are extra stinky but that doesnt matter, trolls are goof in da fight as they are keep em cheap or give them ranged protctiness. Stonerz get dat. you gets a 5+save which can matter, but more you get a 5++ against nasty fire spells dat make your trollz burny and very sad.

 Grensche wrote:

Are Rock Lobbers good or should I stay with spear chucka?


Rok lobbers are very good, aim at a big blokk and watch them die. Humies do it to us, we do it to dem.
Spear chukkas first though, dragon be gonne.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Look who snuck in while I was talkin'

 Moscha wrote:
Upgrading to River Trolls or Stone Trolls is fluffy, especially the old models of Stone Trolls, if you can find any, are my favorite unit!
But standard trolls will just be fine, some 8 of them, 4 wide and 2 deep, make a formidable combat unit. They are monstrous infantry, so the can attack with 3 attacks from the second rank too, totalling to 24 attacks with Strength 5 at full unit strength.
And they can stomp attack with 4 attacks S5.


Common trollz is best, even a 5++ meanz two thirds of da trolls get burned, you diont get a lot for 10pts extra. However you do get something, and get an armour save awa well which can also help. So stonerz are ok.
Moscha forgot to spew though. Mannerz!!
Spew is da best way for trolls to hurt stuff, it always hits you see. It's not a support attack so you spew from the front rank only, its not clear about this but it appears to only effect regular attacks. I do it that way anyways as you get to mix and match attacks.
Back to da vomit though. As a rule always spew unless da target has Ws2 or less and a save of 4+ or less. So you should smack skellies as you get more moshing done.


 Moscha wrote:

I preferred spear chuckas to rock lobbers until 7th.
with the rule that they have to roll on the misfire table when rolling a 1 to hit, made the spear chucka a bit less attractive than before. Still, it is a good choice.
A Rock lobber is very good against large enemy units, especially if they are ridden monsters. And against heavily armored infantry units, they are also practical. So got yourself one, or two, or three!


Nuffin wrong with a bit of misfire. Demz only gobbos let em use dodgy artillery. If you roll a 1 its a good excuse for a laugh. What kind or orc is you?
Speer chukkas is dead cheap and dead killy, you get two big pokey rods to point at horrid stuff for the one of any other race. That has to count, and it does.

Just because I like speer chukkas doesnt mean i dont use rok lobbers though. Why so you think I asked ya to sit on dat rok to begin with. Hold on a bit longer, its almost loaded......
,... and take Moscha wiv ya. Have a nice flight. he, he.....kek.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2019/08/14 10:04:40


n'oublie jamais - It appears I now have to highlight this again.

It is by tea alone I set my mind in motion. By the juice of the brew my thoughts aquire speed, my mind becomes strained, the strain becomes a warning. It is by tea alone I set my mind in motion. 
   
Made in de
Charging Orc Boar Boy





Germany

Better check these grotz handiwork. I gained quite some mass since I've been eating that rotten troll flesh.
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





Edgewood, Washington state

Oi! I took yer advice and snagged two spear chukka's an' a rock lobber. What's da best way to use these things?

Rock lobber for smashing huge gitz.

But Spear chukka for taken' out big baddies?

*scratches head and sips on fungus beer*
   
Made in us
Androgynous Daemon Prince of Slaanesh





Norwalk, Connecticut

If you’re playing 8th and want the O&G Spell-Cards, hit me up. I’ve got a set just wasting away. Lots of people don’t mind using the book for the spells, but a lot of people appreciated the card format for them as well. If you want them, I have them; at half the cost of eBay.

Also; if you run Night Goblins, buy a few fanatics and put varying numbers in each unit. Make your opponent guess, make him over-sell units to squash cheap units with no fanatics, or gamble poorly and lose something important to a unit with full fanatics. Automatically going 1 or 3 fanatics for each unit tells your opponent what you’re doing. Make him guess and make him work for it. That can work for nasty skulkers too in regular goblin units.

Reality is a nice place to visit, but I'd hate to live there.

Manchu wrote:I'm a Catholic. We eat our God.


Due to work, I can usually only ship any sales or trades out on Saturday morning. Please trade/purchase with this in mind.  
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





Edgewood, Washington state

 timetowaste85 wrote:
If you’re playing 8th and want the O&G Spell-Cards, hit me up. I’ve got a set just wasting away. Lots of people don’t mind using the book for the spells, but a lot of people appreciated the card format for them as well. If you want them, I have them; at half the cost of eBay.


PM sent about those cards.

I've been stuck on the fence on whether I want to have Night Goblins or just regular Goblins in my army. It's hard to find regular Goblins on ebay, I want them for aesthetic reasons more as cheap chaff.
   
Made in us
Keeper of the Flame





Monticello, IN

 timetowaste85 wrote:
If you’re playing 8th and want the O&G Spell-Cards, hit me up. I’ve got a set just wasting away. Lots of people don’t mind using the book for the spells, but a lot of people appreciated the card format for them as well. If you want them, I have them; at half the cost of eBay.

Also; if you run Night Goblins, buy a few fanatics and put varying numbers in each unit. Make your opponent guess, make him over-sell units to squash cheap units with no fanatics, or gamble poorly and lose something important to a unit with full fanatics. Automatically going 1 or 3 fanatics for each unit tells your opponent what you’re doing. Make him guess and make him work for it. That can work for nasty skulkers too in regular goblin units.


Back in 6th and 7th there was a player at one of the stores I went to that would set three Fanatics out with his dice while playing. It took me a bit to figure out that he never actually had Fanatics in his army, they were just there for psychological warfare purposes. A humorous jerk move, but a jerk move nonetheless. The day I found out I flung my High Elves units solely at all his Night Goblins on a hunch and said "So, which one has the Fanatics?"

www.classichammer.com

For 4-6th WFB, 2-5th 40k, and similar timeframe gaming

Looking for dice from the new AOS boxed set and Dark Imperium on the cheap. Let me know if you can help.
 CthuluIsSpy wrote:
Its AoS, it doesn't have to make sense.
 
   
Made in gb
Highlord with a Blackstone Fortress






Adrift within the vortex of my imagination.

 Grensche wrote:
Oi! I took yer advice and snagged two spear chukka's an' a rock lobber. What's da best way to use these things?

Rock lobber for smashing huge gitz.

But Spear chukka for taken' out big baddies?

*scratches head and sips on fungus beer*


Rok lobber is for smacking 'gue stones into blocks of da uvver ladz. Pulverize the biggest meanest infantry unit they 'ave.

Spear chukkaz should poke monsters first, then nites, than whatever else.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
 Grensche wrote:
 timetowaste85 wrote:
If you’re playing 8th and want the O&G Spell-Cards, hit me up. I’ve got a set just wasting away. Lots of people don’t mind using the book for the spells, but a lot of people appreciated the card format for them as well. If you want them, I have them; at half the cost of eBay.


PM sent about those cards.

I've been stuck on the fence on whether I want to have Night Goblins or just regular Goblins in my army. It's hard to find regular Goblins on ebay, I want them for aesthetic reasons more as cheap chaff.


Night goblins are FAR easier to find, being the core of the 7th edition boxset, plus being still readily available in a modern platic kit. The regular goblin kit is dated and has issues in quality, leg poses are samey and not very expressive, weapons are too clean and hands are too big. You might get confused by the goblin kit as goblin wolf riders and infantry use the same set, but have extra mounted legs. First time I bought some I thought I had been sent the wrong models.
Now if you know anyone who collects ungor that kit is excellent for including good replacement weapons, the ungor set has a box a hand weapon and a spear for each ungor model so you get two spare per model bought. I took advantage of this to scrounge bits from Beastmen players and bought more on eBay. Beasts was a recent rerelease o you might find players to beg bits from. there ist not too much wrong with the goblin arms north of the wrist so that is where you sever the beastmen weapon arms. I also use beastmen bow arms to modernise skink archers with the newer kit. in both cases the effort is well worthwhile, you get a better quality gobbo and skink archer.

I went though all this hassle because I wanted a tribal orc army with goblin support, from within the same tribe. If you have common orcs as your army base I recommend the theme it looks and feels better. Yes you do get more mileage from night goblins though, fanatics outperform nasty skulkers, they are far easier to collect and paint. So I have no reason to look down if you take the easier path. Remember though night golbins are independent if the fluff means anything to you, so they should be used in vast numbers under thier own leadership. You dont need that many fighting goblins in a n orc tribe, which is what you appear to be after. if you follow this and keep to massed orcs with a black orc elite, and only a few goblins you will have an army that makes sense and has a presence to it. Your army will also be very very close to my own. Must warn you here, just as night goblins outperform so do savage orcs, if backed up with shrunken head. But you dont need this to win and there is something satisfying in having a huge horde of nasty serious looking greenskins rather than freakshow greenskins and while the common orc is a crude and broadly inferior asset they have some raw stat advantages and are brutally effective in numbers.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2019/08/16 03:22:18


n'oublie jamais - It appears I now have to highlight this again.

It is by tea alone I set my mind in motion. By the juice of the brew my thoughts aquire speed, my mind becomes strained, the strain becomes a warning. It is by tea alone I set my mind in motion. 
   
Made in gb
Highlord with a Blackstone Fortress






Adrift within the vortex of my imagination.

This is my current army, to give you an idea, and I will not likely expand it any more (just recently added squigs though). It is designed as a 4000pt army at full muster with all army models plus a selection of the character models.

LORDS
Black orc warboss with 'eavy armour and great weapon on custom 50mm base. - Uses the Ironjaws Megaboss model, not rlegally based but counts as an infantry orc model but takes the space of four orcs, applied rule of cool. Orcs can get this big so why not.
Orc warboss with 'eavy armour, choppa and shield, on huge wyvern on custom 100mm square base - Uses the Mierce wyvern, an impressive beast, for my alternate general. This wyvern will not fit on anything smaller.
Orc Big Shaman on huige wyvern on custom 100mm square base - Same base model but different rider.
Orc chieftain with 'eavy armour and great weapon on wyvern on chariot base - Old metal orc wyvern model, listed as a hero character because that is how I use him in 9th age. He is also my alternate flying warboss if I dont want to use non-0GW models. Note that a wyvern should be on a 50mm square, but for monsters that big a chariot base fits better, besides the frontafge is more important.

HEROES
Orc Shaman with staff on Mojo Wagon (Boar chariot) - Especially converted boar chariot to fit a shaman, not effective in WHFB but has more favourable rules in 9th age. This is a work in progress, I might dry pin the shaman model so I can replace him as mounting a wizard on a chariot is bas in any version of regular warhammer. The Orc shaman is the classic metal model with a dinosaur bone staff in both hands.
Orc Shaman with 'morkstikks' (extra hand weapon) - A converted Ironjaws Warchanter, deplated for purpose. This model is big for an orc but within tolerance, normally I use him for my great shaman. Halfway to a savage orc but not visibly low tech.
Goblin Shaman - th standard 8th edition goblin shaman on foot miniature

Black orc chieftain with 'eavy armour, and extra choppas - Lightly converted Ironskull from the Ironjaws Ironskull's boyz set. inneede to trim the cloak a bit and repose slightly to fit on a 25mm base. Looks good and well worth the effort.
Orc Chieftain BSB - Forgewolrd orc command miniature
Orc Chietain and with armour and great axe - Foreworld orc hero from the same character set.
'Da Blakk Nite' - black orc boar rider from the Orc command set riding the oversized boar. Uses many black orc bits
Goblin chieftain with 'eavy armour, scimitar and shield - Basic orc officer, should mount him on a wolf but I have no wolf rider components as the theme.

I can never innclude my entire character roster in one army.


CORE
50 Orcs with choppa and shield, full command
50 Orcs with choppa and shield, full command
40 Arrer boyz with choppa and bow, full command
30 Goblins with spear and shield, full command
30 Golbins with short bows, full command
3 Nasty Skulkers - Metal models bought relatively recentyl from GW mail order.

SPECIAL
30 Black Orcs with full command - Includes sone Ironskulls boyz models.
15 Boar boyz with full command - Tip, if you use modern boar boyz they dont fit well, unless you stagger then on the based slightly overlapping to left orr right. You dont need a lot of overlap to get the models to rank up, so each boar is on its base, just not centred. This makes a herringbone pattern of boars whilch allows the piggies to rank up on behind the other. Bases need to be ofset by any 6mm to achieve this, this can be done by a 3mm shift to left or right of each boar which is not enough for a real overhang. It looks weird at first but doesnt effect play and does work, and you will get used to it.
6 Trolls - Mantic trolls relauctantly used as there are no other miniatures availabe at decent quality or price or both.
Boar chariot
Boar chariot
Rok lobber - Old metal model
Spear Chukka
Spear Chukka
Spear Chukka
20 Squigs - My most recent addition and likely the last purchase for my O&G. I stuck a fork in it and said 'done' befroe new squig modesl were released. Now I am saying the same thing again. You know how it goes, I am finished barring unforseen opportunities, but I wont say never.

RARE
Idol of Gork - Using Mantic Greater earth elemental on a 100mm square base. Neat impressive kit and a good monstyer to deploy. Note that this model is nroken powerful, Forgewolrd rules, though I bought as far cheaper kit (£20 vs £100). Most Forgworld models underperform, not this one, it underpriced and overpowered. Only T8 model in the late era game. I do consider this mode unfair unless its a very big game, or if my opponent wants to use a greater deemon. Frankly the O&G faction has nothing that can stop a Bloodthirster except massed spear chukkas. If your gobbos fal their aim and a Bloodthirster gets stuck in you cant do much about it. O&G have a dirth on quality combatants, crude and effective but no quality. Idol of Gork is recommended if used with restraint to fight fire with fire.

n'oublie jamais - It appears I now have to highlight this again.

It is by tea alone I set my mind in motion. By the juice of the brew my thoughts aquire speed, my mind becomes strained, the strain becomes a warning. It is by tea alone I set my mind in motion. 
   
Made in pl
Inspiring Icon Bearer




 Grensche wrote:
Oi! I took yer advice and snagged two spear chukka's an' a rock lobber. What's da best way to use these things?

Rock lobber for smashing huge gitz.

But Spear chukka for taken' out big baddies?


Artillery park O&G used to be the best option. Lobbers are the best option against monsters and big units but they compete in the same space as doom divers that make short work of all that 1+ armour spam (DGK, Steam tank, tanky chaos and DE flying characters....) and are more accurate with that D6 adjustments.

For the same reason 4xchukkas were good points investment. Eventually you'll hit something.

O&G made one of the best gunlines of 8th, there's a reason why a lot of tournaments capped warmachines.

   
Made in gb
Highlord with a Blackstone Fortress






Adrift within the vortex of my imagination.

Cant agree more, though dwarfs and Empire are the broken gunlines, nothing particularly unfair about o&G artillery.

Doom Divers are an exception much to my chagrin, I hate them and everything about them. Their very concept spoils the game in my opinion. So don't expect an unbiased account on them from me. I grudgingly admit they are effective though, one of the more reliable artillery units in the game. there is no real downside to them except poor leadership with no inherent means to increase that.

Spear chukkas are reliable in batteries though and cost effective. rok lobbers are standard catapults but at a discount price.

A cap on warmachines unfiarly penalised O&G as their artillery requires for volume for effect.

n'oublie jamais - It appears I now have to highlight this again.

It is by tea alone I set my mind in motion. By the juice of the brew my thoughts aquire speed, my mind becomes strained, the strain becomes a warning. It is by tea alone I set my mind in motion. 
   
Made in pl
Inspiring Icon Bearer




 Orlanth wrote:


Doom Divers are an exception much to my chagrin, I hate them and everything about them. Their very concept spoils the game in my opinion. So don't expect an unbiased account on them from me. I grudgingly admit they are effective though, one of the more reliable artillery units in the game. there is no real downside to them except poor leadership with no inherent means to increase that.


DD were the only answer for many of the broken things in 8th like high AS monstrous cavalry, 1+ re-rollable solo characters, 1+ AS spam, etc.

I think I took the pair on over half my 8th games.
   
Made in gb
Highlord with a Blackstone Fortress






Adrift within the vortex of my imagination.

Spear chukkas ignore armour savers also, and S6 meant a minimum of 4+ against almost everything. Not had for 35pts each.

Then you have troll vomit, which excellent for high armour save targets.

I hear you but there are ways to not Doom Diver. O&G are not overly strong on armour negation, but do have some, and have a lot of brute strength options. Demigryphs and Skullcrushers will give anyone a problem, but they are supposed to.
O&G were always invited to the monsterous unit party, people overlook this as trolls were inadequetely supported by miniatures in 8th. Trolls dont have armour but get a 4++ instead, but they have the raw combat stats and a useful secondary attack.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2019/08/17 10:29:38


n'oublie jamais - It appears I now have to highlight this again.

It is by tea alone I set my mind in motion. By the juice of the brew my thoughts aquire speed, my mind becomes strained, the strain becomes a warning. It is by tea alone I set my mind in motion. 
   
 
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