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I recently won an old metal IG Sentinel off of eBay that I intend to use as a cheap Scout Sentinel. May get more as well

Looking at the model itself, it looks like it will require some pinning to keep it stable and to keep it from breaking. Now, I'm not opposed to pinning, but I understand it is more difficult than pinning plastic pieces. I have a Pinvise, but I'm concerned about the sturdiness of the bits; had a small one break a month or two ago after drilling a bunch of plastic. I've got a hardware store close to where I work, so buying thicker gauge wire is no big deal for me.

Any tips for pinning metal models? Perhaps some better bits to drill with?

Arcanis161 wrote:
I recently won an old metal IG Sentinel off of eBay that I intend to use as a cheap Scout Sentinel. May get more as well

Looking at the model itself, it looks like it will require some pinning to keep it stable and to keep it from breaking. Now, I'm not opposed to pinning, but I understand it is more difficult than pinning plastic pieces. I have a Pinvise, but I'm concerned about the sturdiness of the bits; had a small one break a month or two ago after drilling a bunch of plastic. I've got a hardware store close to where I work, so buying thicker gauge wire is no big deal for me.

Any tips for pinning metal models? Perhaps some better bits to drill with?

When drilling metal, drill only a short distance then pull out the shavings. Do this frequently, it reduces the amount of torque you have to apply and lowers the chance of snapping the drill bit. You generally don't have to worry about this when drilling plastic.

Also, file down the surfaces you're gluing together, but don't polish them. You want as much contact as possible with a lots of surface area, as metal joints have to carry a lot more weight. Don't hesitate to add some green stuff to the joint if you think it might need it.

The above is good info. I cheat on pinning and use a floral wire (18 gauge) that fits into a 1/16th hole. This means I can use a very sturdy 1/16" drill bit bought for 2$ at any hardware store and my dremel. The stronger drill bit and wire really help.

I would use the pin vise over a dremel, personally - I love my dremel but even at the lowest speed the bits tend to heat up and snap when drilling metal. As John Prins said, slow, steady, not too much pressure, back out frequently to dump the shavings.

Slow and steady is the way. I am interested about breaking bits. I've been pinning for 30 years and never broke any of them. I have certainly dulled them. Are we talking 1/16" bits, or smaller ones?

edwardmyst wrote:
Slow and steady is the way. I am interested about breaking bits. I've been pinning for 30 years and never broke any of them. I have certainly dulled them. Are we talking 1/16" bits, or smaller ones?

Drilling a Bolter barrel, specifically the side holes. Bad angle (arm already glued), too much force trying to speed it up, and it snapped.

I just need to go slower and with less force, especially with the metal stuff.

If I remember correctly, there isn't that much metal in that model.
You should be able to just use superglue especially if the pivot points are plastic-to-plastic.
Where it is plastic-to-plastic, I would use a plastic glue rather than superglue too.

 bubber wrote:
If I remember correctly, there isn't that much metal in that model.
You should be able to just use superglue especially if the pivot points are plastic-to-plastic.
Where it is plastic-to-plastic, I would use a plastic glue rather than superglue too.

This Sentinel was the one before that one. All metal. Just a cockpit and gun on some chicken-like legs.

For metal I use 1mm jobber drill bits in a pin vise. (1/32" is about 1.5mm). It's slower and more tedious than going through plastic, but never had one break on me.

Follow the advice about maximising contact area, too. That really helps stabilise the join.

edwardmyst wrote:
Slow and steady is the way. I am interested about breaking bits. I've been pinning for 30 years and never broke any of them. I have certainly dulled them. Are we talking 1/16" bits, or smaller ones?

I've broken lots, but these were re-pointed tungsten carbide (very hard, but often brittle) bits with VERY small diameters, and the gakky lead free pewter that got used after the USA banned lead in so many things. Never broke any steel bits though they dull a lot quicker.

 WaveyRaven wrote:
For metal I use 1mm jobber drill bits in a pin vise

My man - those are my favorite bits as well.