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Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







New reader note - this blog started out as an3d printer build blog, and is now a repository of some the random stuff I have printed and painted that doesn’t really fit into any of my other threads. Hope it’s useful and/or interesting.
———————————


We're trying to move house. This means l my hobby stuff is packed away to allow for viewings. No fun

So I got myself a Prusa i3 MK3S for christmas

Using this to chronicle my build of the thing and see what random plasticky goodness (or badness) comes out the other end. I've been hoarding things on Thingiverse and picking up a few kickstarters for STLs that have caught my eye. Now to see if any of it was worth the investment!

Thingiverse collections here if anyone is interested
https://www.thingiverse.com/Gflinty/collections

Anyhow. First off is the build. The machine kit is packed impeccably with pre numbered bags with all the bits you need for each step. Also all the electronics are push fit so no soldering required. Yaaay, because I suck at soldering.

So once the kids were off to sugar and adrenaline induced comas, on with the furtling!

Managed to get the frame and y axis sorted tonight.





The pieces are beautifully crafted. Something very satisfying about finely machined metal parts all slotting together (relatively) effortlessly. Just a bit concerned about y belt tension, but let's see what happens when I run a test print.

Anyway, hopefully something useful and/or entertaining for you here.

This message was edited 48 times. Last update was at 2023/08/28 23:22:06


Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







X axis done



And z axis motors, rails and gubbinz.



On to the extruder later tonight... it's the hardest bit :(






Automatically Appended Next Post:
Aaaand extruder done!

That took 3 hours! A very complicated block of components.





This thing contains 2 fans, the heating element, the filament feed system and a few sensors, plus all the cables to make it all tick.

Tense, but it's done now. The only down side is that I managed to split one of the fan casing mounts. The fan casing are much weaker plastic than the rest of the printed elements. Oh well, its not totally wrecked, and the other mount also seems to hold it in place firmly enough. We shall see.

Also managed to put the LCD screen together and mount that. Much more simple



Starting to look almost finished. Last few bits to be done tomorrow night, and then maybe some test prints... very exciting

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2019/12/27 00:24:17


Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







And it's done!

Finished the pre-flight this morning before taking my daughter to see Frozen 2. First prints are now flowing off the build plate

Obligatory Benchy


And a token to.replace the card stock leader indicator for Blackstone fortress.





Currently.printing a 3d version of the grav lift for BSF as it's pretty simple and mostly.flat. updates soon.

Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







Here is the grav lift printed at the default 150micron quality setting.



And some details of the layering.





I think it looks pretty good. No bobbling as such and nice even layers as far as I can tell.

I've also been trying out some tanks made up from an Antenocitis Workshop kickstarter with a bunch of random turrets taken from thingiverse. Printed at about 15mm scale and I think they look ok. I was wanting to play some 10mm scale games using the Horizon Wars rule.set, so just trying out some combinations at a bigger scale before going down. I might wait for a resin printer before doing the actual game tanks though. I have a 0.25mm nozzle and will try refitting the printer to do.a. job lot at a smaller scale and see if it's good enough.

The blue stuff is at 100 micron detail settings while The silver is 150 micron quality. Any tips on getting g better quality prints welcome









And some tokens for kill team to try out multi-coloured print shenanigans. I think they've worked out ok

I'll do.a couple of gold on blue as well for a bit of bling on commanders, leaders and elites


This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2020/01/02 22:46:43


Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in us
Humming Great Unclean One of Nurgle





In My Lab

How much was the printer? Because that stuff looks high-quality.

Also, any of this stuff custom-made by you? Or is it all premade?

Clocks for the clockmaker! Cogs for the cog throne! 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







I splashed out a bit on the printer as I was looking for something reliable with minimum of fuss rather than being a hobby project 3ven to get the thing working halfway reasonably. The kit is £700 and took me.10-12 hours.to.fully assemble and calibrate. The instructions and packaging are first rate however, making it relatively easy, just a bit fiddly and time consuming.

All the stuff I'm printing is pre made. Mostly off Thingiverse so far with the tank.hulls from a commercial kickstsrter. I need to follow up.with some of my Cochin kickstarter scenery, but all of that takes ages and I'm working up to epic long prints

Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







Bah... spaghetti junction :(

Another try is needed for an industrial a frame.

Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







Success!

A pair of a frames from the rather awesome Imperial terrain Cochin shipyards kickstarter.





And a section of failed print to test the hycote filler primer out on.

Heavier application on the left compared to the right. Seems to.fill the ridges.quite nicely. Need to get a supply of fine sandpaper next it seems, and some pokey sanding tools.to.get in to narrower gaps



And from the side.
Needs to be a heavier application in the side I think. I'll add another coat and see what happens.



Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in us
[DCM]
Boom! Leman Russ Commander





United States

Looking good, Flinty- congratulations on successful prints!

I saw on a YouTube tutorial how a fellow sprayed his prints with a matt varnish, then applied a primer coat- this seemed to help smooth the printing layer lines without obscuring fine detail. I haven't tried it yet myself- I'm still playing with/tuning/cursing at my Ender-3 Pro. I'm getting some good prints, but not consistently enough to say that I've got the process down completely yet. I'm following this blog very keenly as I have a steep learning curve and an IVI Closed Loop 3d printer from the kickstarter I backed to be prepared to get the most out of when it arrives.

The Ender-3 Pro is a 'learning artifact' as I had zero experience with 3d printing prior. It's the opposite approach from your Prusa, being very inexpensive but correspondingly finicky about how it is treated. I have literally replaced the entire filament feed pathway from spool, through extruder, through Bowdon tube down to the hot end and nozzle. I'm learning a lot, and getting over my fear of breaking something as I try to make it work right, but I'm not sure that I'll add another one to the workbench.

I'm hoping to start a modest 3d printing business as a side hustle- gaming pieces, terrain and minis, and like you, have backed a lot of kickstarters that have affordable commercial licenses (or a are free to sell printed items from), building a library for 'someday'.

Please keep up the excellent monologue as you move forward with your endeavors- I'm getting a lot from your observations. I see myself getting at least one more FDM printer and probably a resin/SLA printer for better figures, and the FDM might be a Prusa like yours.


"He fears his fate too much, or his desserts are small, who will not put it to a single touch; to win- or lose- it all."

Montrose Toast


 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







Thanks, meer_cat. Glad that my rambling is useful, rather than just mumbling in the void

I had played around a bit with a 3d printer at work, but this was my first real.foray into doing it myself. I have to say that the Prusa kit and software makes it super easy. I haven't had to do anything or print any replacement parts to improve performance. I have had a couple.of failed prints due to loss of stick on the bed, but I think they were mostly down to poor degreasing on my part and small surface areas.

I almost destroyed my hotend thermistor by letting g the really fragile wires hang too far down and rub on the parts being pro red, but managed to save it with a couple of zip ties. Really need to.make sure there are no dangly bits given the amount of movement the print head goes through. I really hope I dont have to rebuild the print head again any time soon. That was hard!

I'll definately give the varnish trick a go and see how it is. Thanks for that. Most of my hobby stuff is packed up for house selling. I wonder where my varnish spray went...

I'm.also.wamting to.venture into the lands of SLA for models, with the FDM for scenery and bigger bits. Just need a new house with space for stinky chemical works Although it sounds like the newer water washable resins that are coming on line will help.on that score.

I can thoroughly recommend the Prusa as reliable and (I think) high quality prints.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Currently going for a longer print. 14 hours this time, after a previous longest of about 10 hours.



Updates tomorrow night after work on whether it worked

After that I will need to explore the larger bits I got from Imperial Terrain needing multiple prints of 2 to 3 days! To be honest, I'm still a bit scared of those ones... some simple rectilinear stuff first methinks.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2020/01/07 22:45:28


Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







Hmm... a little longer than "tomorrow night" but I have been diligently printing away. As well.as the blackstone fortress scenery on my other thread, I've been printing some more cochin scenery.

The platform worked and I managed Another pair of a frames (and another failed a frame print). I also.managed to just about get a series of working platforms that alsonclipninto the a frames. These just about failed after one of the platforms came loose, but it was just about topped out when it did so the printer was able to keep going on the little bits left.






One of the support girders hasn't worked properly and is all.squished at one end.


Also printed some liquid tank thingies as scatter


Even used these in a Kill Team game against Graphite recently. Much fun was had, but it took quite a long time as we were both pretty slow with rules uptake.

And for control of paint supplies, I've printed a couple of paint racks for dropper bottles.



The gold filament is pretty stringy, but in really like the colour

Next up are some sd card holders then back to some scenery. I have sliced some much higher things that will.take half a spool.each and take a couple.of days overall to print. Might try to work up the courage to do them soon

Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







Some more printage has been happening. Also house sale is on the move, so new hobby setup due sometime in April.

Some really nice scatter from a random thingiverse post. The radar is from Imperial Cochin set.









And the piggies... yes, the piggies. And the lucky golden creeper. My son had his 7th birthday and we needed some party bag fillers.



Now printing inserts for ticket to ride. And then maybe I'll wind up for the big bounty hunter ship.

Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in ca
Fixture of Dakka





Surrey, BC - Canada

Flinty,

Some great Necromunda and Kill Team terrain you are building there.

Cheers,

CB

   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







Thanks Cap'n. Necromunda and Kill team are very much my target just now. Looking g forward to being able to paint them as well, but one step.at a time

I have also just started printing a set of necromunda walls off thingiverse. Each build plate of 2 wall pieces and associated tops takes about a day... Just got the first set off and they are super cool and fit the boards almost perfectly.

First pair of sections with my Van Saar for scale







And some close.ups of them on the board. I didn't choose the best board for them actually, but it gets the idea across.







And the 2 walls.separately



The tops need to be glued on, but the details all line up pretty neatly. Might be a bit of a join line visible when painted, but nothing that some heavy weathering cant fix

And a link to one of the sets on thingiverse. If you click the designer then you should be able to easily get to all of his designs and all the wall and topper sets pretty easily.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2803044

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2020/02/12 21:38:05


Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







I forgot this pic from the last post. With the top bits off.



And then on to the next set of walls. A corner and a small straight bit. This one uses an alternative top with an awesome cog design.





And then mixed together with the previous walls.


The filament I'm using leaves a bit of light stringing fluff, but it's easy enough to rub off. It might need going over with a toothbrush before priming, but that's about all it should need.

Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







Next pair of walls are up. A single and double length set





And then all mixed up with the rest.



Next up the Fan Walls

Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in ca
Fixture of Dakka





Surrey, BC - Canada

Wow great stuff Flinty.

Cheers,

CB

   
Made in gb
Ancient Venerable Dreadnought






Cool terrain you’re knocking out. Interesting to read about the build of the printer, I’ve heard that calibration can be a bit of a challenge. Have you had any problems so far?

Best of luck with the house move,

Goberts Gubbins - P&M Blog, started with Oldhammer, often Blackstone Fortress and Void Panther Marines, with side projects along the way 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







Thanks guys. I am literally just slicing premade stuff and letting the amazing Prusa deal with it.

Calibration is fiddly. I'm still not sure that I've got my first layer set right, but I rarely get failed prints, especially now I've moved over from window cleaner to proper 99pc IPA for bed cleaning. The window cleaner was doing ok, butni was getting shifted layers and warping. I changed to IPA and all those problems went away immediately.

I checked out some videos.of how problems can occur before finishing things like belt tensioning, so I hope I've bypassed that problem.

The package into came with a textured bed as well but for the life of me I cant get anything to stick to that bugger,.regardless of how close I put the nozzle to the bed. I think it's for ABS and I haven't tried to use that yet. PLA and PETG work perfectly on the flat bed.

After I've fi wished doing a bunch of scenery, I plan on trying out a 0.25mm head compared to the 0.4mm head I'm currently using to see what kind of quality I can get 10mm scale.tanks out at, but I'm having too much fun with bigger stuff just now.

Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







Some more printing progress.

The detail on the fan wall units isn't as crisp.as.it.could be, but it'll be fine with a dirty coat of paint.

I quite like the wall with the duct tunnel. Intended to.replace the card token allowing access through a wall. I'm printing at least one more of these as I recall.you can get up to.3 of the things to place.



Also I'm still.running off a single.spool of filament. So all of these walls.are a total.cost of about £12 in terms of material and have so far required minimal clean up. Very happy so far

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2020/02/16 13:06:15


Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







Filament ran out. Mid print. And it was beeping incessantly so my long suffering wife entirely reasonably cancelled the job to.shut it up.



So I swapped the reel, and started a new print. And this time the filament tangled and pulled the reel off the spool holder, so fail number 2. So I cleared the debris and started a third time., and this time the second reel ran out at almost the same stage as the first one! I need to get better at tracking remaining filament against length requirement for the print...

Oh well, nothing really lost.

Here is a group shot of everything I managed to get out of a single spool, plus a little bit of a second spool.



Not too shabby. And a detail shot of the ruined wall.sections.


And here is the next print on going after running for about 12 hours so far. Due to finish in another 24. A real marathon one this time. Hopefully no spool problems here as it takes an.awful lot of filament for this one.



This is the rear sections of the Cochin Bounty Hunter ship. After this I'll need another day to print the front sections and landing gear before I can glue it up and use it as some hardcore blocking terrain to be honest it's probably too big and may need to be disposed of, but it will be fun to play with at least a bit.

Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut





Nottingham

Very nice. I'll be getting an FDM printer soon, and those walls are very high on the to-print list; great to see how well they have come out.

Have a look at my P&M blog - currently working on Sons of Horus

Have a look at my 3d Printed Mierce Miniatures

Previous projects
30k Iron Warriors (11k+)
Full first company Crimson Fists
Zone Mortalis (unfinished)
Classic high elf bloodbowl team 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







I am really happy with the quality of the prints, especially as there are no supports needed. I brimmed them, but I probably didn't need to.

Also after a total of about 34 hours, the first part of the hunter marathon is almost done



Amazing detail. Should finish before I head to bed tonight so I can set up the second file to print ready for assembly on Sunday.

The Prusa is a total workhorse!

Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







Good.grief this thing is mahousive.



This is just a quarter of ot. The front wing effectively. Imperial terrain really nailed the star wars aesthetic I think. Several of the details are pretty much copied across, but I think it looks really good.

Some of the details may need smoothed a bit







A couple.of slightly stringy undercuts, but nothing too.drastic.



Currently printing the back half and some other bits and pieces. Updates in 24 hours


Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in us
Walking Dead Wraithlord






Wow! That's got to be a monster of a ship.
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







Its huge

And here come the engine sections and cockpit...



Should be done by the morning. Then to.decide if I glue it all together, or leave it in sections for storage...


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Having said that, the direction of his rocket exhausts indicates that this particular bounty hunter will not be going into space today...

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2020/02/23 00:09:55


Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







Yikes. This thing is a bit big really. I.was going to use it for kill team but I think it would take up half the board! Damn the details.are lovely though.








Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







Within just a few days of getting house sale/purchase sorted and then the whole legal system.was shut down :(

Most of my hobby stuff is properly packed.away and now for an unknown length of time. However, the printer is still available

Mostly printing face masks for the NHS but ran put of petg, allowing a gap for this beauty





I have always loved the awing and this will.sit nicely next to the bounty hunter ship at the mythical future time in which I can build my shipyard/spaceport kill team board

The model came from thingiverse scaled for x-wing, but it scaled up to 28mm really well I think.

Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in ca
Damsel of the Lady





drinking tea in the snow

Wow, that came out really nice! The a-wing's always been my favorite too

realism is a lie
 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







I would say thanks, but literally the only work I did was scale it in the slicer and then set it going. Prusa and Astrofossil of Thingiverse need to take all the glory

I have another bounty hunter ship from Cochin to go to complete the wet. I was thinking of doing an x-wing but I think it would be too big and unwieldy for kill team... although a parked x-wing would provide a nice intermediate layer with the flat wings... I shall ponder further

Also Imperial terrain still needs to deliver a massive transport with a playable interior. I will need to see what space I have in the future before embarking on that beat though.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2020/04/14 16:06:39


Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
 
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