Switch Theme:

How to sculpt shattered rock?  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in us
Last Remaining Whole C'Tan






Pleasant Valley, Iowa

Hi guys,

Looking for some sculpting tips. I 3D printed a piece of Necron terrain, and I want to make it look like it emerged from under the earth, shattering the rock layer above it as it broke through the surface.

How would you visualize that? I am thinking sorta concentric rings, like a gunshot through glass. edit Oooh, or a sub surfacing under ice!

The real problem - how would you sculpt it? It's a big print, so I was going to use Sculpey and bake it, but no clue how to avoid fingerprints, and how to get the sharp corners you would expect on broken stone.

Thanks!

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2020/09/11 15:53:11


 lord_blackfang wrote:
Respect to the guy who subscribed just to post a massive ASCII dong in the chat and immediately get banned.

 Flinty wrote:
The benefit of slate is that its.actually a.rock with rock like properties. The downside is that it's a rock
 
   
Made in us
Grumpy Longbeard






Why not cut the sharp "rock" features out of foam?
Imho, it would be waste of time to sculpt strait, clean rocks. Especially in large scale!

I would ether cut them from foam, or cast rough surface with plaster of paris into a dirt mold and break that with a hammer when dry.

For sculpting.
To keep fingerprints out when sculpting just wear latex gloves or those latex finger cots.
Or use a burnishing tool or a rubber sculpting tool to smooth-out the surface.

Depending on the sculpting medium! different solvents aid in smoothing out the surface detail. Like water for clay or mineral spirits for oil based scupley that does not dry out.
However I am not a sculptor, I just know that solvents aid with smoothing, however I don't know what solvents in what ratios for what materials, sorry




 
   
Made in us
Last Remaining Whole C'Tan






Pleasant Valley, Iowa

I like the plaster of paris idea quite a bit, and I already have a ton. Thanks!

What kind of foam are you thinking?

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2020/09/11 16:52:39


 lord_blackfang wrote:
Respect to the guy who subscribed just to post a massive ASCII dong in the chat and immediately get banned.

 Flinty wrote:
The benefit of slate is that its.actually a.rock with rock like properties. The downside is that it's a rock
 
   
Made in us
Grumpy Longbeard






 Ouze wrote:
I like the plaster of paris idea quite a bit, and I already have a ton. Thanks!

What kind of foam are you thinking?


KEEP in mind!
That I have not tried to cast plaster into the dirt mold! I just think that it should work, unless you mix it very liquidy.
I just wouldn't want to spend the time in making a mold for one cast piece that will be broken up anyways. If packed dirt in the backyard works, then cool! Like the old school sand metal casting.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2020/09/11 16:57:10


 
   
Made in us
Grumpy Longbeard






Like, if it works for metal and glass, should work for plaster
SHOULD
[Thumb - .jpg]

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2020/09/11 17:00:38


 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







Have you checked out the rock effects possible with cork tiles? You should be able to tear up cork and layer it to look like different strata being displaced.

Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in us
Crazed Zealot





Have you looked into using cork board? it beaks up into a great rock looking texture!

This stuff works great for me. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000V4OLP0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Vince Venturella's Hobby Cheating video on bark and cork basing and terrain.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2020/09/11 19:17:01


 
   
Made in us
Last Remaining Whole C'Tan






Pleasant Valley, Iowa

I just bought some cork sheeting, and will try both the plaster and cork to see which looks better.

Thanks for the advice, all.

 lord_blackfang wrote:
Respect to the guy who subscribed just to post a massive ASCII dong in the chat and immediately get banned.

 Flinty wrote:
The benefit of slate is that its.actually a.rock with rock like properties. The downside is that it's a rock
 
   
Made in us
The Marine Standing Behind Marneus Calgar





Upstate, New York

Slate roof tiles and a hammer?

Only half joking. Get some real rock on the brittle side and take a wack at it.

   
Made in gb
Thane of Dol Guldur





Bodt

For broken stone, you could just fill a disposable Tupperware with plaster. Once it's set, go to town with the hammer.

Heresy World Eaters/Emperors Children

Instagram: nagrakali_love_songs 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut




Central California

Another vote for the cork tiles. Also, lawn and garden chipped bark can be used.
Hope we get a share when you finish. Love your idea.

Keeping the hobby side alive!

I never forget the Dakka unit scale is binary: Units are either OP or Garbage. 
   
Made in us
Last Remaining Whole C'Tan






Pleasant Valley, Iowa

I poured some plaster of paris onto an old wrinkled shopping bag, let it dry, and then smashed it with a hammer. It didn't work as well as I had hoped - there was not enough texture on the top/bottom. It would work great for basing minis, though, because the chunks would be a lot smaller and the "flatness" less apparent.

On the plus side, I had all the stuff in the house, and it only cost a few cents of mats and few minutes of time, so... eh.

Still waiting for the cork tile I ordered to arrive. I might venture out and look for slate.

Thanks again for the ideas.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2020/09/14 10:06:19


 lord_blackfang wrote:
Respect to the guy who subscribed just to post a massive ASCII dong in the chat and immediately get banned.

 Flinty wrote:
The benefit of slate is that its.actually a.rock with rock like properties. The downside is that it's a rock
 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







The benefit of slate is that its.actually a.rock with rock like properties. The downside is that it's a rock and in my experience a pain in the bum to keep on the base.as its heavy and needs a.lot of sticking down. Also if you want to have anything other than a solid planted 2 foot stance on the model, then pinning needs a proper power tool, compared to a normal.pin vice to pin into cork.


Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in us
Last Remaining Whole C'Tan






Pleasant Valley, Iowa

Just as a heads up, I haven't abandoned this idea - in an act most unusual for me, I have followed through and am now painting the basing. I will be posting pictures soon, maybe even today.

I wound up going with cork because it was cheap and I didn't have to leave the house; I just got some off Amazon.

I will try slate at some point in the new future, though. I already have some very small slate chips I have used as basing, just nothing this big (bigger than a knight base, I think).

 lord_blackfang wrote:
Respect to the guy who subscribed just to post a massive ASCII dong in the chat and immediately get banned.

 Flinty wrote:
The benefit of slate is that its.actually a.rock with rock like properties. The downside is that it's a rock
 
   
Made in us
Last Remaining Whole C'Tan






Pleasant Valley, Iowa

I wound up finishing it and did a Showcase thread.

Here are the base pics:

Spoiler:




I suspect a better painter could have done better with it, and even though it's not exactly what I was going for, it came out kinda neat anyway.

I will try again at some point with actual slate.

Thank you again for all the advice!


 lord_blackfang wrote:
Respect to the guy who subscribed just to post a massive ASCII dong in the chat and immediately get banned.

 Flinty wrote:
The benefit of slate is that its.actually a.rock with rock like properties. The downside is that it's a rock
 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut




Central California

That is very nice! Absolutely gets the message across. Thanks for the follow up picks, and congrats on some nice terrain!

Keeping the hobby side alive!

I never forget the Dakka unit scale is binary: Units are either OP or Garbage. 
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: