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1. Anyone have a different paint scheme for Custodes Weapons? Mainly the blades. I like the blue i do, but i got this image in my head of a red blade, but cannot find any good reference material for them. 90% of pictures are either green or blue.
2. Any good place to get different bits for the Custodes heads? I'm not a fan of the plumes personally and am trying to look for buncha head pieces that might look good?
3. Cloth Banners! I REALLY like the idea of a small cloth banner instead of the plastic ones, but my search for finding small cloth banners is running into some dead ends. Heck i'd take someone that does commission just to see how much /if they could. idk i just like the idea of a free flowing cloth-like banner on my Vexilus Praetor in Terminator Armor! This isn't imperative and if it can't be done/is difficult i'll probably just give up on the idea, but idk it seems interesting to try n do.
4. Someone told me Forgeworld Models are RESIN, but i'm not sure what this actually means in terms of painting? Do they paint the same do i have to buy different paints? Or can i just put a slab of gold safety coat on and then just paint as normal?
5. Also i'm looking to not make them so incredibly GOLD, but maybe like a burnished gold almost bronze? BUT i got no idea and my expierementing on minis well ive ran out of minis to try gak on lol. So any tips here would be great!
Thanks for reading/the help!

No idea on the first two, but the usual way for flowing banners I've heard (though not tried) is to print out the design on paper then attach and shape it with 50/50 water and white glue.

Resin paints just like metal or plastic, though I'm told its a bit more important to soap and water wash then fully dry it to get any mold relase off.

Metallics usually take a tone from their undercoat color. Red-brown or green basecoats then your metallic, especially with a P3 corrupted bronze or Vallejo bronze layer, and a wash with the color you want in the shadows (thinking a green, red brown, or purple -brown like scale 75's african skin) might get you started somewhere where you want to be?

For number 5 have you tried NMM? Green stuff world do paint set for NMM gold/yellow

1. I did a painting course & the first exercise was doing 'power' blades. We were told that doing red ones were more difficult than other colours. I did a red one & with the technique they were teaching, it wasn't too hard.

2. You could try the following bits companies:
https://www.spellcrow.com/space-knights-c-9_38.html
https://puppetswar.eu/models-and-bits-50/sci-fi/mankind/bits/heads.html
https://maxminishop.com/collections/conversion-parts/products/steam-knights-helmets-10
https://bitsofwar.com/20-heads
https://www.anvilindustry.co.uk/heads-helmets-crests
https://www.sciborminiatures.com/en_,shop.php?group=153

3. Cloth at such a small scale doesn't flow like a 'full-sized' equivalent unless you choose a very fine material like silk. However as soon as you paint it, its properties would change & would become stiff. It would be easier to roll out a slab of greenstuff & fold it carefully over the model This is still quite difficult.

4. They are resin. You will need to scrub them with warm soapy water. I recommend buying a cheap electric toothbrush (an Oral-B rotary one or similar) to make the process easier. This is to get rid of the release agent they put in the molds. However, sometimes the resin the FW use sometimes isn't mixed properly. The unmixed parts feel slimy and very shiny. Unless you scrub with a wire brush, paint just won't stick. If this happens give FW a call & they should replace the part with no quibbles. They will also replace broken, heavily warped (some warping is acceptable as it can be fixed by applying heat eg warm-hot water & bending the part back into shape) or where they has been a miss-cast - either slippage or where the resin hasn't flowed fully into the mold. Note that FW will nearly always have a degree of small holes that will need filling. Fill larger ones with greenstuff or milliput. Small ones can be filled with superglue.
You need to use superglue to glue the bits together. There is very little time to get the bits in the correct position so ensure you dry-fit all the pieces before applying glue.
Use a standard acrylic primer & you can use acrylic, oil or enamel paints or even a mixture of all three.

5. You could try Metalcote by Humbrol (https://www.humbrol.com/uk-en/shop/paints/enamel-paints/finish/metalcote.html?). These can be buffed to a shine which is quite cool. You might be able to put a yellow ink wash over it to make it gold.
However this is how I do 'old' gold:
Black undercoat; tinbitz* / runelord brass basecoat; drybrush of shining gold* / retributer armour; maybe a light drybrush of mithril silver* / stormhost silver. I sometimes throw a wash of brown in there after the gold drybrush & then do another drybrush of gold over (once the wash has dried).
Note that I don't use the Citadel 'dry' range, just normal paint.
* = old Citadel colours / closest current colours (I think).
To speed up painting a whole force, I would be tempted to use Retributor Armour spray over a black primed base then one or two brown washes & then a light drybrush of gold.
Hope that helps.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
You might also want to look at this new product from Greenstuff World:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C-L9BHOahdw&feature=youtu.be&fbclid=IwAR0oEtz7O9pMQ7_xuZayJPhFC8Aq6GOMBxO0XW2bvvfBhM9Q14THE8Z7Khg

Resin paints the exact same as plastic. Put a primer on it and go. You may need to wash as mentioned, but I don't usually bother. I just wipe them down with a cloth.