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Made in us
Unbalanced Fanatic




Atlanta, Ga

This is a pretty straight forward question that I've been meaning to ask. It comes after several instances of having models, either losing some detail with their paint, or having a small area of the paintjob scratched off.

I've seen some methods that involved some of the more transparent washes, or even some items that would allow someone to glaze models so that they become more resistant to being scratched.

One has to wonder. Do the Tyranids consider drop-assault troops... fast food? 
   
Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





Varnishes / clear coats are what you're looking for.

You can buy them in various levels of shine from gloss (generally too shiny for miniatures) to satin and matte. They will inevitably change the sheen of the model which will change how your paint job looks.

But also before you start painting, it's a good idea to wash your models with soap and water (I like to use dishwashing soap as it strong, doesn't leave a residue and is easy to get off) to get any oils or release agents off the models, then handle them with gloves until you get a coat of primer down on them to avoid getting oils off your fingers onto the plastic of the model before they're painted. That can significantly strengthen the bond that further layers of paint have on the model.
   
Made in us
Unbalanced Fanatic




Atlanta, Ga

AllSeeingSkink wrote:
Varnishes / clear coats are what you're looking for.

You can buy them in various levels of shine from gloss (generally too shiny for miniatures) to satin and matte. They will inevitably change the sheen of the model which will change how your paint job looks.

But also before you start painting, it's a good idea to wash your models with soap and water (I like to use dishwashing soap as it strong, doesn't leave a residue and is easy to get off) to get any oils or release agents off the models, then handle them with gloves until you get a coat of primer down on them to avoid getting oils off your fingers onto the plastic of the model before they're painted. That can significantly strengthen the bond that further layers of paint have on the model.


I've attempted to use varnishes & clear coats in the past. Though I think it was the lack of verity that kept me from really getting something that served my needs at that time. I'll take a look at some of the more available items in that product range. As for cleaning my models, that is something that I've been doing for a long time. Though I think it also just comes with the territory of having them handled on such a constant basis. And I have seen that even my carrying case is capable of taking layers off some of my models in the past. One contender being a dreadnought that I've noticed was losing it's side paint, due in part to carrying foam, which is strange to me. Because I've never seen that kind of wear coming from them before now, and I've noticed that it's been doing the same to some of my models shoulder pads.

One has to wonder. Do the Tyranids consider drop-assault troops... fast food? 
   
Made in us
Martial Arts Fiday






Nashville, TN

What paint are you using?
How tightly are those models packed in foam?

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Made in us
Unbalanced Fanatic




Atlanta, Ga

 SlaveToDorkness wrote:
What paint are you using?
How tightly are those models packed in foam?


Depends on what models they are. Reaper and Valejo paints mostly, though I do still use some standard citadel paints on the smaller infantry models. While vehicles/walkers and the such, get reaper paints due to how easy it is to control, and generally just how better they are for cost.

As for how tightly they're being packed. They generally have more than enough room, however my motor pool case has been getting somewhat cramped after I had to re-organize it. The bases of the dreadnoughts stay wedged in a set place that I cut and they use plastic card dividers to keep them from shifting. Neither of them are stored with their arms on either, because those sit in a plastic case that's in the zipper compartment on the outside of the case.
These models are currently fighting for room with three magnetized Nemesis Dreadknights, two storm hawks, and a storm talon in the bottom section of the case.

I was talking to a friend of mind when I first noticed the paint coming off, and he said that it might be from exposure to something on another players hands. Which I do recall now that there was a guy who would covertly try to damage other players models at another shop, but I feel that such a premise is unlikely in this instance.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/06/14 01:20:00


One has to wonder. Do the Tyranids consider drop-assault troops... fast food? 
   
Made in nl
Annoyed Blood Angel Devastator




netherlands

clear coats

full compagny of bloodangels,
5000 pnt imperial guard
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Made in us
Stubborn Dark Angels Veteran Sergeant





Halifax, Nova Scotia

I spray on Vallejo Matt Varnish (I've had enough bad experiences with GW's Purity Seal to specifically avoid it).

It provides a nice even finish too.

I also use a magnetic tray system for transporting models, so they're not getting rubbed against anything.
   
Made in no
Longtime Dakkanaut






Basicly add a thick coat of gloss varnish and then a thin layer of either matt or satin to remove the gloss shine.

We humans has oil and grease on our fingers at all times and that is what wears off the paint, tipping or bumping models will chip them.

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Thane of Dol Guldur





Bodt

Varnish (only need one type) and careful handling.

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Made in us
Unbalanced Fanatic




Atlanta, Ga

 Asmodai wrote:
I spray on Vallejo Matt Varnish (I've had enough bad experiences with GW's Purity Seal to specifically avoid it).

It provides a nice even finish too.

I also use a magnetic tray system for transporting models, so they're not getting rubbed against anything.


Bad experience with magnetic trays. Though I only used one for moving small army list. The whole tray got dropped and managed to flip upside down in the fall, nearly obliterating half of the army.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
 FrozenDwarf wrote:
Basicly add a thick coat of gloss varnish and then a thin layer of either matt or satin to remove the gloss shine.

We humans has oil and grease on our fingers at all times and that is what wears off the paint, tipping or bumping models will chip them.


Sounds like a bit of busy work, but I'm more than wiling to give it a try. How long does that setup usually take to dry?

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/06/15 03:32:33


One has to wonder. Do the Tyranids consider drop-assault troops... fast food? 
   
Made in us
Fixture of Dakka






Oborosen wrote:
I've attempted to use varnishes & clear coats in the past. Though I think it was the lack of verity that kept me from really getting something that served my needs at that time.

Uh, I don’t know what you were looking at but there’s the same variety in varnishes now as there was 20 years ago. You have brush on enamels; brush on acrylics; propellant sprayed enamels and acrylics and airbrushed. In at least five distinct sheens.

We can all thank VOC regulation for the loss of Testors Dullcote as sold for years. Best propellant varnish ever made and I will fight you fer it. I’m currently shooting Golden UVLS Matte at all my new work; it thins well for airbrushing and goes on nice without clouding. If you are REALLY hard on models you should go with the above and shoot a few layers of gloss which is harder than the flatter sheens and over coat it in the final sheen you want.

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