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Made in gb
Ridin' on a Snotling Pump Wagon






How do!

Had an idea for my forthcoming Necromunda campaign setting. For background, I’m aiming for the opening campaign to revolve around the settlement of a new dome, and the Gangs exploring and expanding into it. This will lead to a single, permanent settlement which will be built up over time and successive campaigns.

To go for a proper, gnarly “this isn’t just lived in, but we live here, I thought giving my players the chance to create their own posters and gang graffiti would be a good way to do that. And as the title suggests, I reckon custom waterside transfers would do the trick.

Equipment wise, I think I’m pretty much set. I’ve got a PC and a colour laser printer, and I’ve sourced laser printer suitable waterslide stock.

I’m hoping it really is as easy as that for production, barring suitably rescaling whatever insignia the players come up with, then applying the accursed things. If I can get it to work, I’m really, really hoping that as the campaigns come and go, and potentially gangs with them, we’ll see a layering of such posters, insignia and graffiti build up. I could even adapt it to be a sort of harbinger of things to come.

Perhaps I fancy setting the Gangs against a nascent Genestealer Cult, the first inkling of what’s going on being the appearance of suitably GSC related graffiti. Literally something for the players to spot, and perhaps have an intelligence test for their models to put two and two together?

What I’m looking for here are hints, tips and notifications of Early Mistakes I might be able to avoid.

All help gratefully received!

   
Made in gb
Frenzied Berserker Terminator




Southampton, UK

My knowledge is entirely theoretical and it sounds like you've gone beyond what limited advice I can offer. All I can say is it sounds like an awesome idea and am looking forward to seeing what you do with it!
   
Made in us
Courageous Questing Knight





Texas

Hey, Mad Doc! I have made quite a few custom decals over many years and have run into just about every issue, tip, trick you could think of. It is rather lengthy, so here it goes:

- Be sure you buy the correct transfers for your printer - there are inkjet and laser versions and it sounds like you have a laser.
- Be sure to buy the ones in clear or white as suits your designs. Since you cannot print 'white' you use the white of the transfer sheet to show through your design; however, this has the entire design against white and might be difficult to cut around the decal design without there being a white border, so either use the white border in the design or make your design with a simple edge you can cut around.
- If using clear transfers these can be cut any shape and when applied you will not see where you cut it, just the design.
- Use white transfers on dark backgrounds and clear on light backgrounds - and make sure your designs have color contrast, as a dark red design on clear against a black background will almost disappear, etc.
- Be sure to seal your decal sheet after printing VERY LIGHTLY. I use the Testors decal spray, which works great. If you saturate the decals with the sealer you will not be able to soften them very well when applying to get any bending or forming if the surface is not completely flat. If you do not seal enough the color could bleed or wash off when applying any top coats - even laser printed ones!
- Alway put down a coat of sealer where you will apply the decal, otherwise you will get tiny bits of trapped air if applying directly on top of normal painted acrylic - this will leave your decal area looking grey. Any acrylic clear is good, EXCEPT FLAT! I use semi-gloss acrylic, apply the decal, then after all dry, apply another coat on top. The top coat of clear acrylic can be any finish, semi or flat, depending on the final result wanted. You should use a final spray of some sealer over all of the model and that will make the different coats all disappear.
- Be sure to use a decal set solution to brush onto the area where you will slide your decal. There are a lot out there and I use Testors Decal set, which has always worked good for me. It softens the decal to apply and conform to the area nicely.
- Do not over soak the decal in water. Just dip it in the water for about 10 seconds and then lay it out for a minute or two until the decal slides easily off the sheet. Use tweezers, brushes, etc. whatever works for you to slide it into position. I like to use a small flat brush with a little of the decal set to move around until right where I want it, then gently push down with a soft paper towel to remove all air. If on a complex shape and not bending well, leave the decal set on it for a moment, poke the spot with an x-acto and press down with your paper towel and it should apply nicely.
- if possible, print an extra decal or two, as you can sometimes bend or fold over when applying and you have to trash the decal and use another, especially if they are either super tiny or have a really complex edge/surface.

I will say that I have made custom decals for models that worked better than the decals that actually came with the model. Applied better, smoothed better and edges blended better. The biggest pain for me is having a design with a complex edge that is tough to cut around if using the white transfer sheets due to the color scheme. Other than that, just follow the steps and all should be good!

Have fun!

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2021/10/21 14:01:39


My Novella Collection is available on Amazon - Action/Fantasy/Sci-Fi - https://www.amazon.com/Three-Roads-Dreamt-Michael-Leonard/dp/1505716993/

 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







I would also add that big blocks of colour may not stick well to the printer paper.

The big sector numbers I printed didn't last well, but I may just not have given it enough time to dry/cure/adhere/whatever. This was laser paper in a laser printer. Now mine are for Necromunda, and the damage to them actually helps sell the weathering aspect, but that might not be your preferred outcome

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2021/10/21 15:09:03


Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in gb
Ridin' on a Snotling Pump Wagon






Thanks for the tips so far. Especially the sealer tip. Didn’t even know I’d need that.

And yeah, I don’t mind some gnarlier ones. All adds to the look!

   
Made in us
Courageous Questing Knight





Texas

@Flinty - I LOVE that 'Caution Snipers' sign!!!

For the decal sealer you can also use a super light spray of just about any acrylic, but found it does not work as well as the actual decal sealer spray. The acrylic keeps the decals from conforming the best they can and it could be the decal sealer is just a lighter version, as I think it is acrylic-based, too.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/10/22 14:26:32


My Novella Collection is available on Amazon - Action/Fantasy/Sci-Fi - https://www.amazon.com/Three-Roads-Dreamt-Michael-Leonard/dp/1505716993/

 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







Credit where its due

https://www.deviantart.com/chensamurai/art/Caution-Snipers-60783459

Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in gb
Fresh-Faced New User




Has anyone got designs that they could share or are already online as downloadable?

I was thinking of doing the same, but wanted to avoid all the sizing issues that would go along with it. That said, I just picked up some models yesterday and can use their transfer sheet as I guide I guess.
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







The great thing about printing your own is that you can measure the space you want to put them in

Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
 
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