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i was just wondering what kind of glue you all use for GW plastic models.
i use some testors stuff with a "precision tip" but still manage to get it everywhere.
im thinking of maybe switching to something with a brush.
Now gw models are posed specifically with long joins with lots of tight contact, that stuff works pretty well getting into all the grooves, rather than regular poly.
Revell Contacta Professional is my go-too glue for plastic models. Works well and all I have to do is keep a flame source (eg lighter or matches) and tweezers handy to burn out any dried in glue if the nozzle gets clogged up.
Locktite Super Glue Brush On is my go-too for anything that requires superglue. I typically only get the small packs because I don't do enough work with it to burn through a big set before it loses its performance and goes "off"
Depends on what I'm gluing. There's no "one ring to rule them all" - they each have strengths and weaknesses and specific use cases.
Construction adhesive if I'm gluing foam to mdf basing (because it doesn't shrink and warp the basing). PVA if I'm adding flocking/grass/sand. PVA/water/surfactant for bonding it all down.
Polycement if I'm assembling a HIPS kit.
Superglue and/or epoxy for metals (epoxy for the larger pieces).
I'm OVER 50 (and so far over everyone's BS, too).
Old enough to know better, young enough to not give a ****.
That is not dead which can eternal lie ...
... and yet, with strange aeons, even death may die.
For GW plastic models, I use Citadel glue for large components. It creates a very secure bond. I use Tamiya Extra Thin liquid cement for smaller parts - it is great for modern GW multi-part figures, as you can put them together then add a few drops of cement to secure everything. Liquid cement is also great for smoothing the finish on assembled parts.
Build a man a fire, and he'll be warm for a day. Set a man on fire, and he'll be warm for the rest of his life.
Revell Contacta Professional for strong bond and Tamiya Extra Thin for things like fulfilling small gaps, smoothing plastic after scrapping mould lines etc.
another vote for Tamiya Extra Thin here, hold the parts together, apply that with a brush and let it seep into the join, apply gentle pressure and the seem line basically vanishes
for superglue stuff it varies, usually the cheapest liquid stuff I can get, with Gorilla gel where needed, then when set the cheap stuff added to get into all the contact areas
shmvo wrote: Tamiya thin glue is trash. It's great if you've not used any other thin glues before, but it's a bad thin glue imo
Mr Cement S or Mr Cement SP are way better. Thinner, cleaner, easier to control, better bond. SP is my go to
Super glue-wise since using the 'black' super glues with the rubber additives I could never go back. AK black widow is what i tend to use
Are those Mr Hobby (Gunze) products? Only reason why I'm using both Tamiya cements (regular & fine) is because the thin cement doesn't form a strong enough bond on larger joins. Mr Hobby is a top notch brand, I will give their thin cements a try based on your recommendation, thanks!
any super glue will do, I prefer using extreme power 'thick' from Hobby Lobby; stay away from GW citadel glue as its plastic glue, less forgiven than super glue. only time I would even consider using plastic glue is at a thin joint between plastics.
shmvo wrote: Tamiya thin glue is trash. It's great if you've not used any other thin glues before, but it's a bad thin glue imo
Mr Cement S or Mr Cement SP are way better. Thinner, cleaner, easier to control, better bond. SP is my go to
Super glue-wise since using the 'black' super glues with the rubber additives I could never go back. AK black widow is what i tend to use
Are those Mr Hobby (Gunze) products? Only reason why I'm using both Tamiya cements (regular & fine) is because the thin cement doesn't form a strong enough bond on larger joins. Mr Hobby is a top notch brand, I will give their thin cements a try based on your recommendation, thanks!
Yeah that's the stuff! It's more watery (?) feeling that tamiya, and super easy to control how much you get into a joint.
shmvo wrote: Tamiya thin glue is trash. It's great if you've not used any other thin glues before, but it's a bad thin glue imo
Mr Cement S or Mr Cement SP are way better. Thinner, cleaner, easier to control, better bond. SP is my go to
Super glue-wise since using the 'black' super glues with the rubber additives I could never go back. AK black widow is what i tend to use
Are those Mr Hobby (Gunze) products? Only reason why I'm using both Tamiya cements (regular & fine) is because the thin cement doesn't form a strong enough bond on larger joins. Mr Hobby is a top notch brand, I will give their thin cements a try based on your recommendation, thanks!
Yeah that's the stuff! It's more watery (?) feeling that tamiya, and super easy to control how much you get into a joint.
Apologies for necroing this thread, but just wanted to thank you for this recommendation! Got my Mr Hobby SP cement and I love it. A definite step up from Tamiya Extra Fine, much stronger bonding. This one's a winner folks!
small update...
bought some Mr Hobby SP and finally got to try it.
great stuff.
question to you folk using it though.
do i have to mate the parts and brush it in the seam like it says or can i apply some to both pieces and then mate them?
unless i grow a third arm mating and applying the glue is a little difficult sometimes.
of course time will answer my own question but i figured id ask.
managed to save a lumineth regent with this stuff so im pretty stoked about it so far... broke a sword and snapped the legs at the base.
my old glue would have made a mess of it.
old glue
Spoiler:
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2023/07/19 11:29:27
Superglue all the way for most things. I like putting the tiniest amount on every single contact point to make miniatures (metal ones in particular) more durable and I often assemble them in such a way that they have more contact points (for example a sword in hand touches the edge of a cloak or the shaft of the spear touches the thigh etc)
For terrain I also use some Pattex construction glue and PVA.
question to you folk using it though.
do i have to mate the parts and brush it in the seam like it says or can i apply some to both pieces and then mate them?
unless i grow a third arm mating and applying the glue is a little difficult sometimes.
of course time will answer my own question but i figured id ask.
managed to save a lumineth regent with this stuff so im pretty stoked about it so far... broke a sword and snapped the legs at the base.
my old glue would have made a mess of it.
nice, thanks tauist.
i watched that video and laughed though. he put one swipe of glue on. i paint it on three or four times... lol
im still not sure how applying the glue first and then mating the pieces together will work though. so far ive had good success so i assume it will be ok.
i just get a little confused because i apply it and then it almost instantly disappears so i question whether or not it's going to get sticky but so far so good.
I'm using up the last of my super glues Loctite and duro (I think) just the typical stuff you find in a hardware store, which I've used imprecisely on metal minis, and that will be the end of it. I'll take some recs from this topic.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2023/07/23 00:07:24
usernamesareannoying wrote: nice, thanks tauist.
i watched that video and laughed though. he put one swipe of glue on. i paint it on three or four times... lol
im still not sure how applying the glue first and then mating the pieces together will work though. so far ive had good success so i assume it will be ok.
i just get a little confused because i apply it and then it almost instantly disappears so i question whether or not it's going to get sticky but so far so good.
As long as the parts stick to each other, you're good! My use of the SP glue is, I hold the piece together in my hand and apply glue onto the seam from the outside (I like to drop the brush to a spot where any spillover wouldnt be super objectionable, but so far I havent encountered unwanted spilling of glue), has worked perfectly every time so far. With Tamiya Extra thin, the same process was a bit of a gamble, sometimes the parts didnt stick, or excess glue spilled from the seams and made a mess of the join. SP glue just has some special sauce in it, behaves much more predictably and with a much better bond
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