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Made in us
Mysterious Techpriest







For my AdMech models I've run into a giant Question Mark Shaped Wall.

What types of glue do you recommend?

I will be attaching plastic to plastic, resin to plastic, and in one case an old metal backpack to a plastic model.

Plus I have to attach magnets to both plastic joints and resin joints.

Thank you!

 BorderCountess wrote:
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SamusDrake wrote:
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Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







Plastic to plastic I always recommend polystyrene cement. There are various forms, but Revell Contacta has always worked for me, and the thin metal applicator allows getting into tight spaces and being nice and precise.

For everything else, gel superglue. The thinner stuff is less useful when the potential for poor surface to surface contact comes in through imperfect resin or metal casts.

Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

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Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut




UK

I'm another Revell Contacta fan - the bottle with the precision nozzle works fantastically well.

With glues like that for plastic to plastic it only works on plastics. It basically melts the plastic, then the active part evaporates and the plastic sets solid. So it only works on plastic to plastic surfaces.

NOTE - if the nozzle clocks you can clear it by.
a) Reversing the metal part into the bottle (pull it out and put it in the other way around). This can sometimes melt out the stuck part.

b) Using a flame (match etc...) to burn out the cured glue in the nozzle. I tend to hold mine with tweezers and remove the metal nozzle entirely and then just heat it with a lighter. It will splutter a bit and burn out pretty fast.

For everything else - superglue. Personally I'm a fan of Loctite brush-on. It's fairly thin and easy to apply with the brush.
Just be sure with superglues
1) Ensure the 2 surfaces join as flush and smooth as possible

2) Score both join surfaces with the pointed tip of a blade/scalpel. A cross hatch pattern works well.

This ensures a tight connection from part 1 and a big surface area of varied angles with part 2. This dramatically increases the tacky holding curing time to a few moments. If you just try and seal two smooth surfaces together it can take AGES to form a bond strong enough to hold itself.
It will still take 24 hours or so finish fully curing

NOTE superglues go "off" fairly fast once opened. You can tell as it starts to get thick in the bottle; more gloopy to apply and stops setting well. Don't be shocked if you don't get through much before it gets to this state. You can slow it down by putting it in a fridge between uses; but in the end unless you are doing a LOT of model work or very big models with big join surfaces; expect to not get through a whole bottle. For this reason small bottles work great

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2025/01/13 00:15:59


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