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The Ghost ark.


Has 10 necron passengers inside it, each of which consists of 5 or 6 separate, very small and very fiddly bits.

My ones are empty.

Just wanted to jump in a defend the Lycheguard/Praetorian kit. The wrists match up with certain arms. If you mismatch the arms/hands it becomes a nightmare.

 reds8n wrote:
The Ghost ark.


Has 10 necron passengers inside it, each of which consists of 5 or 6 separate, very small and very fiddly bits.

My ones are empty.

I think if you build it that way it ends up looking better. Less hassle and a better result! Woo!

The Monolith annoyed me greatly. It just doesn't go together very well... probably the age of the kit but I heard that it's not an uncommon problem.

 reds8n wrote:
The Ghost ark.


Has 10 necron passengers inside it, each of which consists of 5 or 6 separate, very small and very fiddly bits.

My ones are empty.

LAZY!

(I have drop pods where I didn't model the inside stuff because, feth it)

Anything that incorporates Resin and Plastic. Fellblade Tracks, And Demios RHino tracks are by far the worst Kits I have done thus far.

vascosantos wrote:
Any metal from any range or warma/hordes plastic"resin" kit, the molding lines and lack of poses are just horrible

I honestly don't mind the WM/H kits for their "poses" what does really bug me are the mold lines..... in my experience GWs are worse in scale (as in, larger mold lines) but PPs are just in the worst places (I've gotten rid of some awesome detailed sculpting due to the mold line being ON that detailing... looking at you Convergence light vectors!)

 reds8n wrote:
The Ghost ark.


Has 10 necron passengers inside it, each of which consists of 5 or 6 separate, very small and very fiddly bits.

My ones are empty.

If they aren't there, I assume an opponent can shoot through the gaps



Kroot for me, so.many.little.bits.

 reds8n wrote:


My ones are empty.

Look better empty too. It would annoy me too much to have them in the model, even when they're disembarked..

My justification is that it'll make it really hard to paint with them in it and I can use the bits as markers, terrain etc etc .


None of this will happen, but I like to put the effort into my delusions.

Nyss Hunters are not a fun kit to make.

Not kits I hate, but kits that have needed a huge amount of patience - the infinity aleph starter box, and in particular the dakini tacbots. Just tiny, tiny parts. Getting those shin plates on required tweezers, and a rock steady hand...

Going old school here.

Epic 40k Ork Gargants/Great Gargants.

 OrlandotheTechnicoloured wrote:
Any kit (modern) that puts a sprue gate (or mould edge) over detail

This. On the topic of mold design, I'm actually somewhat annoyed by the whole "hidden mold line" design philosophy. While it sounds great, tolerances just aren't tight enough (with many companies, at least), come production time, to make "hidden" mold lines actually hidden. If you're even moderately picky about model prep, you're now left with mold lines (shift, usually - not just simple flash) in the least accessible areas, instead of over broad faces where the fix would be more necessary, but infinitely easier. Armored limb has a rounded knee/elbow cop? Run it straight down the middle, where a quick sanding erases any presence and the contour is easy to maintain. Running it around the perimeter gives me a lopsided piece of armor that I can't clean up, thanks to the surrounding plates.

Materials are my other main gripe. I have no problems with GW/Mantic styrene or pretty much any metals, but I hate materials that are either incredibly brittle (whatever styrene/glass hybrid Battlefront used for the Open Fire! PaK40s - one had two breaks before I even opened the box, and cracked again during removal) or don't abrade well (Bones plastic is somewhat annoying, Mantic sprueless plastic/restic is worse - not to mention the hideous tear-outs I find on nearly every part where it originally joined the sprue).

As for specific kits, I'm currently trudging through the Open Fire! Shermans, so they're certainly the freshest annoyance. Aside from the whole "we messed up, so go ahead and gut the whole inside of the right-hand side/track piece and see what you can do" issue that is already well documented, the tops have the same fit issues that most people hate about Rhino-chassis vehicles. Without meticulous dry-fitting, shaving, gap-filling, etc. you'll never get them flush - the little guides and ledges are all there, the upper hull simply doesn't fit into them.

Old DE Ravagers and talos

Any of the orginal Tau plastics (Firewarriors, Crisis Battlesuits and Devilfish hulls); they all seem to have similar problems with mold misalignment/slip and/or distortion.

I've spent endless, frustrated, hours clamping battlesuit bodies, filling joint lines on Devlifish and trimming flash on Firewarriors.

None of which is helped by the super-clean look that I want to achieve with Tau.

necron vehicles, landraider kit and any of that restic crap that mantic uses

What bugs you about the Land Raider kit?

 H.B.M.C. wrote:
What bugs you about the Land Raider kit?

You mean the fact that it costs an arm and a leg isn't enough?

I hate with a burning passion the Drop Pod kits.

For GW, the Grey Knight power armor box. The two handed swords/arms are just a pain to allign properly.

For Malifaux, there was an ease to the metal models. Now, the Guild Riflemen box was great looking, but, a pain to figure out how they went together. The plastic kits look great, but are spindley (not sure if that is a word).

Dwarf gyro copters, tomb scorpions and the tomb's kinds catapult were an absolute disaster to build. I'd rather stub my toe than build another metal tomb scorpion again.

I hate assembling Shoota Boyz. I'm constantly tempted to use slugga boyz just because they're so much easier to assemble.

 kronk wrote:
The New DV models are gorgeous, but HOLY gak do they have a lot of bling to paint on each model!

This leads me to perhaps my #1 model peeve. I tend to see construction challenges as stimulating, but on the new GW models sculpted in whatever sort of CAD program they use, the relentless and unfixably ugly phenomenon of detail smear. I don't know if there's an established or technical term for what I'm talking about, but it is exemplified by the claws on the pelt on Kranon the Relentless' cloak. You need some sort of trompe-l'oiel painting technique to mask it.

The PanOceanian Dragao was a true PITA to assemble. The Jotum was only marginally less annoying.

I have a metal Hive tyrant that defied nearly all methods I could think of to put together. Main problem surfaced from the legs. Glueing and pinning werre useless. Green stuff did nothing. Finally I turned to JB weld. It worked pretty well though this is the only model which it has lasted on. . .

I agree that the SM bike kits is also a pain. The two halves of the bike just never quite match up perfectly. Even the tires don't fit together well. I haven't had to put one together but I heard a friend swear frequently over a LSS.

Empire State Troops - Halberdiers specifically. Unless you glue the arms in exactly the right position and have them pointing in exactly the right direction, they have no chance of ranking up.

I painted all ten million of the skulls on the Garden of Morr kit.
But one more skull probably would have pushed me over the edge.

For me its Drop Pods and Monolith's. The edges never seem to line up.

 Necro wrote:
For me its Drop Pods and Monolith's. The edges never seem to line up.

As far as GW kits go, I have to agree with you on the drop pods.


Another annoying kit that I had, was a 1:18 scale Ferrari F2001 Formula 1 car.... Combine the fiddly, flexible and fairly weak plastic that Tamiya uses, with the fact that those fiddly pieces have to hold the weight of the model (which honestly isn't all that much, its like a real formula car), and that they are tiny when trying to cut off the sprue, and it was a royal pain to assemble. I was just thankful that it looked great put together and on display.

See this? This is by far one of the worst models i have ever worked with. It is a beauty when done and really looks what it should and it is really easy to assemble... The problem?

You see that ankle in the foreground? All of the models vast weight rests on that one ankle. Is this the one that is molded onto the kit, thus making it inherently strong? No. It is the one held in place by a thin resin peg. With all of the models weight leaning forwards.
I have reglued it. Then i pinned it. Then i pinned it agin. Finally, on mine i added a tree stump to the base and had it gripping it in one of its claws, thus giving it extra support. But the amount of time i have had to re-pin and greenstuff that leg is insane.

Currently, I reserve a remarkable hatred for the Dreadball Deluxe set which was anything but deluxe...

Here you have the very unfortunate combination of very soft, almost impossible to clean, restic and gigantic mould-lines cutting right across a lot of itze bitzy detail. I've currently thrown those guys back in the box while I wait for the time when I finally work up the energy to resculpt all the damage that cleaning the models did.


As a special mention, I would like to mention Battlefronts models. Yes, all of them! That company simply does not understand the how to design a kit so that it goes together easily. Point in case is the Panthers and King Tigers that I've recently assembled. Having to glue the skirts onto the side of the tanks is bad enough (but can be done with a few blobs of greenstuff carefully hidden behind the skirt) but gluing those front fenders on... Who on earth came up with the idea of have to glue a fairly meaty piece of metal to a resin hull, attached only by a razor-thin edge a few millimeters across? I've glued, re-glued, and then glued some more and I still hardly dare touch them. And unfortunately, in contrast with the skirts, there's no way of reinforcing the underside of the seam with greenstuff as that would be visible.