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Forest base test prints done. Super shiny because the copper filament was in and still plentiful



Trees to follow.

I found some starcraft buildings on thingiverse that seem.to match my tank scale. some bunkers and supply depots will be on the bed soon

Look how cute these things are!







Wook at da wittew firing ports and da snooky wooky pipey wipeys

Scraft bunkers! Awesome!

Random progress!

First up, finally stitched together my WOR portal terrain. Need to get it primed up and ready for airbrushing. Planning on using this to be an infantry display piece in my detolf.







The thing stopping the priming, are these little.blighters taking up space in my spray box



Mostly now based and washed. Also mostly drybrushed for a simple highlight. Planning on picking out some pipes and gubbins in point colours for visual.interest.

... to hang Starfighters, tra la la la la, la la la la







Random plastic baubles is basically what 3d printers were made for

Oh, that's awesome

The print lines actually accentuate the design, I've never seen something like that.

I just set it to concentric fill for top and bottom. The shiny filament does help in this case

Wheeeeee... this bunny is happy. A few years ago I saw a kickstarter for some amazing jetbikes. I didn't go for them as they were resin and I didn't really have a need for them.

Now that Van Saar have stupid flying things, I find I have a need for them after all... and they are available as STLs!



I also.didnt need to go through some kind of hoop jumping using patreon, so thats good too. I'm thinking using the legs and the forearms and GSing in van Saar torso, upper arms and head. I'll need to see what scaling is like, but the jetbike guys look to have similar proportions to the newer.necromunda stuff so should fit nicely.

That looks vastly more sensible than the hoverboards!

Since we're both using a Mono, what software are you using for slicing and supports? From what I'm reading, Chitubox doesn't work for the Mono, meaning that you need either Prusa or Lychee Slicer?

I have a Prusa FDM printer as well so I use prusa slicer. You can set up everything by pretending it's an SL1 and then save presupported STLs. Drop them into the Anycubic workshop thingy and you can hollow and slice.

I've only really used the auto support function and it's been fine so far. I'll be trying out some more complicated 28mm scale stuff soon though so I'll see if I need to whip out some hardcore manual supporting action

EDIT:- Double post, please remove.

In other news christmas resin arrived so operation OPFOR has begun

Now to go tire the kids out so I can post process in peace a bit later!


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First OPFOR tanks rolling off now. A medium and a pair of lights as compared to my Hawkwood mediums.for the "good guys".

I was contemplating bumping the turret size.up.a bit more, but I actually think it looks fine as.it is. The magnet mount raises it up.a touch too high, but you only really notice that if you are looking side.on, so it should look fine on the table, and I prefer a bit too high rather than the turret scratching over the hull.every time I turn it. The Hawkwoods.are on that side of the equation, so I need to varnish the hell out of them.shortly.



And some detail shots. The lights are supposed to have some plasma bottle type gubbins hanging off the rear.of the turret, but they were too delicate for printing at this scale.and one came.off.each turret, so.i just snapped both off. They are not really missed but a bit of a shame they didn't survive. The secondary turret MG will.also be repurposed as secondary close support MGs on my supermech spider thingy.

Mechs are up. They came out nicely. Sufficiently interesting for the scale without too many super delicate fiddly bits. Definately have enough dakka for a power level 3 beastie










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Printing update.

Managed to get a few more light vehicles and another medium tank printed today.










That gives me my 4 Wolf scouts and 2 Bison IFVs to go with 2 of the 3 medium tanks and both of the mechs. I'll print the other 2 Bison tomorrow after my jetbike finishes its 12 hour run... hoping it works ok. Then its just the supermech left to complete the OPFOR. Then I need to paint the buggers...

Hmm... I was running some prints.through at 0.01 and 0.03mm layer heights without adjusting the exposure times.

And I was wondering why I needed to chip the rafts off the build plate... d'oh...

I've re-sliced a test file at 0.03mm with a reduced exposure time to.see if it helps. I have also found the setting in Prusa slicer to let me make angled.raft.edges to make it easier to get under with the scraper... a day of discovery,

In the down side, I've been getting some failed prints off my prusa :( also trying a 0.1mm layer height there when I usually run at 0.2 with no problems. I'll give it one more chance before I revert back to the thicker layers and just live with a slightly bumper end result.

To be fair though, the main failures were actually due to dirty great gaps in the files.i was trying to print that I didn't notice when slicing the things...


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So the 0.03mm settings at 6 base layers at 25s each followed by 1.5s per layer seems.to have worked nicely. Stayed stuck to the print bed.

I've mocked up so.e 0.01mm settings gs based on scaling the above. Time will.tell if it works as.well.

Thanks to.a.remarkably good set of files from thingiverse, my nascent arctic base to be fought over using Horizon Wars now has heavy cargo lift capabilities











Printed at 0.1mm layer height on my prusa. I was pleasantly surprised at the quality of the finish. Should just need the primer layer to smooth off the print layer grooves.

The landing pad is from a set of No Mans Sky files also from thingiverse. Took a couple of failed prints before I got a good version, but it looks fine now. Currently printing a 2 storey command centre type thing to be linked to the landing pad. I'm rather liking 10mm scale for being able to print nice detailed things at a scale that is quick to paint and easy to store

First resin failure today :(

I think I managed a double whammy of rubbish support placement and exposure set to too low. Thankfully the super low exposure means that it was easy to peel the failed bits off the FEP. Doesn't look too damaged either. Just a bit scuffed.

Back to the drawing board

Work is horrible again... boooo.

Managed to get some things printed off though

First off is a rather nice high mobility truck thing from Czech Republic. Printed at 0.1mm layer height on my Prusa, I think it looks really good. Going to run a second one off so the arctic base can have some more scatter gubbins to go with the moon rovers.





Just realised I didn't post the moon rovers here. Lookit how cute they are...



Also finally managed to.test out the resin trees I printed a while back





Big enough I think for an ancient arctic pine wood around the base can also be used for 28mm scale quite easily as well.

They are a bit heavy in resin, and somewhat wasteful I think, so I'll try a set on the prusa to see if I can cheap them up without significant loss of awesomeness.

Try 'em on the Prussa and dip 'em in some clump foliage or flock. That'll disguise any loss of detail.

I've been too busy and its been too cold in my utility room to get the airbrush going so hobby ADD to the rescue. Found some nice road tiles on thingiverse, so printed them up at a a scale that I think matches my little tankies nicely. If I had any Infantry they would probably show the kerb to be about half a metre deep, but I dont want to lose the lovely detail by scaling the thickness down.



I scaled it as if it's a standard 2 directional road allowing 2 big lorries with a bit of space on each side. The tanks obviously hog rather more space on the carriageway



And then I was thinking ahead to the inevitable painting. And what all roads need are road markings. 3D Builder to the rescue!

I made a couple of stencils for line markings for the t junction and straight segments. They just slot in between the kerbs, so super easy to place. 3d modelling packages make it so easy to make stencils!




And modified a set of HO scale road markings I found on thingiverse for arrows, parking spaces and assorted other things.



Printing off more tiles as we speak, and I modified up a couple to make an off street car park.

All the above should make pai ting the tiles super quick with a grey, black and white spray can and a bit of drybrushing.

As my board is snow themed, also planning on biw to add dirty snow drifts. Thinking of using a base of kitchen rl soaked in PVA with a sprinkling of baking powder laced paint over the top. I will do a bit more research

And now with some basecoats on. I think the stencils work fine. A bit of bleed, but then again actual road markings are not exactly fine art.



Next steps.are to wash the pavements and then dry brush the ever living hibbledy hoo out of them

And then print a few more to allow.a.decemt sized road system. And then muck about with fake snow. Hmm... starts to sound like quite a lot when.listed like that, however I managed to paint all of these in about an hour so far,.so.it shouldn't take too long.

Hey those stencils are awesome! Sam would wish he had some when we did the roads of ruin for the studio shoot! (I'm with Printable Scenery)

More simple stencil work for a car park feel. Need some kind of open area for the tanks to fight through... hmm... need some civilian vehicles to run over now. Damn the rabbit hole just keeps getting deeper!

Most of the tiles need a little bit of tidying up to get rid of some unforeseen spray lines and a touch of over spray here and there, but much easier to do that than hand paint the details.

Printed a few more straight sections. I'll.probably leave it at that.



Also printed a rather nifty No Mans Sky ancient relic monument portal thingy. The arctic research base needs something to be researching after all Some of the details ended up a bit rough up close up, but some messy stone style dry brushing should hide that

Blah... taken 3 months to get around to printing the forest bases...

On the plus side, I am now cranking out forest bases





Had a slight false start where I printed the round base to be exactly the same diameter as the hole in the base pad. Tolerance was such that it just didn't quite fit properly. Dropping the scaling by 1mm was enough to get it to fit nice and snugly.

Base also has a slot for magnets.



I deliberately printed the trunks horizontally to get a bark-like pattern and I think it worked nicely. Simple spray, wash and drybrush should get a nice effect.

Speaking of bases, I also printed a couple of resin terrain bases for my Bobcat mechs. To avoid it looking like the mechs are floating above the snow, I included some recessed footprints. Again tolerance required a trial to confirm the positioning, but was super easy using the "subtract" tool from 3D Builder.

I sliced the actual model.to.a thin layer of the base of the foot, scaled that up a bit and then embedded it in the base model. The subtract tool then just deletes all parts of any model that overlaps the selected part.







And here with the feet in place. It turns out the base of the printed feet aren't super flat, so I'll scrape it down a it and see if it fits a bit more snugly.



I am also hugely entertained by the fact that the new "official" source of models for Horizon Wars also picked up the Antenocitis Workshop STLS that I am using

So I am effectively printing the official models, but entirely legally... awesome!

https://stratominis.com/2020/01/01/hardwar-horizon-wars/

Switching focus again a little, I printed off a.model.to use as a counts.as spider rig for my Van Saar gang.

Now it's got a scoosh of paint on it I think the back is a bit too messy even for my low standards. The front looks good i think. Printed at 30 microns.



But the back, where I put all the supports.is.a.bit of.a hot mess



I want to use contrast paints so I thought I would go for.another shot to try and get a smoother finish and spent last night mucking about with chitubox and MDSWs support recommendations to.see if I can refine it a bit. I have another couple of trials on the print bed just now and will.report back tonight hopefully.

Yes, as your supports should come right off with almost no or very little marks - it usually is the supports are set to go too deep into the model so you do not get the feature of the small, fine point on the end of the support right where it touches the model.

Printing at .03 layer your should be getting really fine results.

Finally got around to getting the resupported file.printed and primed.



The rear looks so much better. I used chitubox and MSDWs settings. I used the auto support function, but then deleted some of the supports that seemed to be redundant. I also realigned the model to be less horizontal and it seems to have made a difference as well. I did a.second version using the same alignment as previously and the rear was much worse than the one in the pic. Seems a bit finicky really.

However I have a good copy to paint up now, so on with the show. Also been painting my forests. Progress later tonight.

So glad that it worked out. It still seems like your mini has some rough edges and layer lines - there really should not be any, unless that is the way the sculpt is.