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When doing model fine details and symbols do you prefer to...  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
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When doing model fine details and symbols do you prefer to...
Use standard decals
Create your own custom decals
Use detail on the original model itself
Deliberately buy upgraded parts for models with Symbols and detail on, to save using decals.
Model your own GS fine detail
Paint on fine details free hand
Don't bother with detail, just a basic paint job
I Don't Paint
Other (write in)

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Made in se
Growlin' Guntrukk Driver with Killacannon





Sweden

I think I have painted the black templar chapter symbol like 200-300 times. it was so difficult the first couple of times but now I can whip that up in a minute or two.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2018/06/28 07:47:12


Brutal, but kunning!  
   
Made in gb
Blood Angel Terminator with Lightning Claws





Cloud City, Bespin

I do either brass etch, water transfer or buy upgrade parts,

For example my veteran tactical squad has crux terminatus pauldrons, I don’t like the flatness of transfers/ etch when terminators have tha same, also it’s an honour to be in the 1st company so why not have relic armor

 queen_annes_revenge wrote:
Straight out if the pot, bang it on. What else is there to know?
 DV8 wrote:
Blood Angels Furioso Dreadnought should also be double-fisted.
 
   
Made in gb
Legendary Dogfighter




england

Impossible to vote anything other than other as it completely and entirely depends on the models
   
Made in it
Scouting Shade






Personally I use most of those: mostly I use the details on the model itself. At times I use decals, like for banners and flat drapes for my DoK amd Darklings, but I do some really easy freehand for my Kharadrons.
   
Made in us
Wicked Ghast




Decals. all the way. I'm firmly convinced that Microsol and Microset were created with divine inspiration!

My painting is so bad I don't need my attempts at freehand mucking up whatever minor progress I seem to make!

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2019/05/14 02:38:20


 
   
Made in ca
Dipping With Wood Stain






It depends.

Most times I'll GS the detail on or freehand it.

With Adeptus Titanicus though, I'm planning to try out the transfers.

I'm always of the mind that whatever way is easiest for each application, is the way I do it. I always try and find the way of least resistance for any project, and anything that saves time is a go-to.
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User



Charlotte, NC

I prefer to use detail on the model, but I'll freehand where needed. I'm contemplating buying some detail parts from third parties.
   
Made in us
Omnipotent Necron Overlord






I paint it on or buy a 3d printed symbol. Transfers are just too finicky for me.

If we fail to anticipate the unforeseen or expect the unexpected in a universe of infinite possibilities, we may find ourselves at the mercy of anyone or anything that cannot be programmed, categorized or easily referenced.
- Fox Mulder 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





Virginia



https://www.amazon.com/Sakura-Pigma-30081-Micron-Blister/dp/B001CRI6O2

Best $5 you can spend on doing black details like script.
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut






Free hand black wing and free hand red blood drop on my Angels Revenant chapter.

See my gallery: https://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/images-125134-61845_My%20Angels%20Revenant%20Army.html

For the Emperor and Sanguinius!

40K Blood Angels ; 1,500pts / Kill Team: Valhallan Veteran Guardsmen / Aeronautica Imperialis Adeptus Astartes; 176pts / AoS Soulblight Gravelords; 1,120pts  
   
Made in us
Armored Iron Breaker




Charlotte, NC

I generally use custom Decals that someone else made. I may change the colors, but that is about it.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2020/09/30 16:24:16


My Hobby Blog: https://tinylegions.blogspot.com/

http://www.classichammer.com- New Games with old Rules 
   
Made in us
Hacking Interventor





3D print the symbols and paint on those.

"All you 40k people out there have managed to more or less do something that I did some time ago, and some of my friends did before me, and some of their friends did before them: When you saw the water getting gakky, you decided to, well, get out of the pool, rather than say 'I guess this is water now.'"

-Tex Talks Battletech on GW 
   
Made in de
Fresh-Faced New User





In the past I often used a combination of standard decals, upgrade / detail kits and free hand painting.

I dont know how common the detail kits are in Wargaming/Tabletop, but in model building we are often use photo etched parts to detail the interior and exterior of models. A good example for this would be the Czech Manufacturer Eduard, which has a buch of this in his shop.
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





Other:

Find a local artist to commission.
   
Made in nl
Regular Dakkanaut





I have no idea what this discussion is about or what half the options mean. What are decals? What is GS? How can you buy upgraded parts (you mean the bits that Forgeworld sells for some 40k stuff)?
   
Made in us
Last Remaining Whole C'Tan






Pleasant Valley, Iowa

Jandgalf wrote:
I have no idea what this discussion is about or what half the options mean. What are decals? What is GS? How can you buy upgraded parts (you mean the bits that Forgeworld sells for some 40k stuff)?


Decals refers to waterslide decals, ie text and/or iconography printed on paper that when soaked in water, produces a soft decal you can place onto the model to reproduce said text or iconography.

Some people are very good at freehanding detail, for example, painting script lines onto a parchment or purity seal. I myself am terrible at freehand, so lean on decals to reproduce those details.




GS is green stuff, a 2 part epoxy that is commonly used in this hobby to sculpting. Prior to digital sculpting, many models were made of green stuff before being cast. It's still commonly used to fill gaps and sculpt details, and of course, traditionalists still sculpt entire models out of it.


Upgraded parts can mean either forgeworld, or 3D printed details that you either design or print yourself or buy elsewhere such as shapeways, etsy, ebay, or otherwise.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2023/02/21 22:04:30


 lord_blackfang wrote:
Respect to the guy who subscribed just to post a massive ASCII dong in the chat and immediately get banned.

 Flinty wrote:
The benefit of slate is that its.actually a.rock with rock like properties. The downside is that it's a rock
 
   
Made in us
Perfect Shot Dark Angels Predator Pilot





New York

That stuff’s gotta be modeled on. Tremendous respect for the freehanders out there, but I have neither the skill nor the eyesight for that anymore.
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





Texas


So, recent thing that worked.. ish:
Did this really cool celtic knot wolf for my McFarlane marine shoulder in Illustrator, but even making the "cords" bigger, the detail was way too intricate. So, got a piece of plastic, flipped the image and printed it. then went and rubbed the ink off to the shoulderpad... It didn't come out 100% and I had to go back and redo the lines in both black and the background color. It did make a kind of old, worn feeling- buuut, the scale was way larger than what I'm used to, and even then the curvature was screwing up the flat plastic, and the ink smeared.

I vote we all look into mixing 3d print technology with a super-fine airbrush so that you can print vector designs onto a mini!
   
Made in de
Sinister Chaos Marine





Frankfurt, Germany

'other'. When it comes to flat surfaces like a rhino top I'll use and IW decal, but with shoulder pads I just black one out and keep it like that.

'Awsum' is the highest rating I can give something based on quality. Example: I would call it an 'Awsum' AWS-8Q instead of an 'Awesome'

also, Yes-Close To The Edge is the best song of all time and I'll virus bomb/PPC anyone who says otherwise

I aspire to paint the most models I've ever painted in a year this year, my quest updates semi-regularly here:

https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/813118.page


 
   
 
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