Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Edit: 11/13/13 I've changed some of the decals so far to be smaller and more of them. But with space to cut. I'll be updating others as soon as I can.


Here is some artwork I made for printing your own Infinity Decals. They are in .png format and high resolution so they can be enlarged or reduced with little change.

Things to know about decal paper: Unless you have your own decal printer you can not print with white as a color. Right now I have white in some of the decals but I'll be making a new version taking out the white. One way to have white is to first paint it and then lay down the decal. Then paint out the areas you don't want the white.

Most decal paper comes in 8.5x11inch but can also be a quarter of a page as well. I've made these files on that size.

You can buy White decal paper to get the white but the icons will need to be be changed a bit for that. I'll work on making a version for that.


You can buy decal paper at hobby stores or online. Note: Make sure you know what kind of printer you have. Inkjet or Laser. There is different paper for each. I have not seen Laser but I would think it would be better. If any of you do it please let me know.

As of now I've only been able to do the main rule book icons and I hope to add on Human Sphere at some point soon. I'm currently working on Nomads.

If you have requests for different colors I may be able to do some. Feel free to contact me.

Also let me know if you have suggestions to make them better.


Pan Oceania – Updated 10/30/12
General
Neo Terra
Acontecimento Shock Army
Military Orders
Terrain size

Haqqislam — Update 2/20/13
General
Hassassin
Qapu Khalqi
Terrain Size

Yu Jing – Update 10/31/12
General
Imperial Service
Japanese Sectoral Army
Terrain size

Nomads – Update 11/28/12
General
Corregidor
Bakunin
Terrain Size

Combined Army – Updated 11/1/12
General

Ariadna – Updated 11/28/13
General
Caledonian
Merovingienne
Terrain Size

Aleph – Updated 12/5/12
General
Terrain Size

Tohaa – Updated 1/31/13
General

Pretty cool - thanks!

Fantastic stuff - thank you VERY much for sharing!

This is impressively useful. Thank you kindly.

Very very useful, and wonderfully done! Great stuff and thanks a lot!

@CDK: The main difference between inkjet and laser decal film is that the inkjet ones need a waterproofing varnish layer applied prior to their use as decals. The laser stuff is inherently waterproof.

I've used the laser stuff for my star wars marines (501st) and the imperial rosette was a pain to paint, but a doddle to print out and apply to all of the vehicles. Print, trim and apply. None of the faffing around that the inkjet stuff requires.

Cost was the same (local model store has both types in white AND clear and there is a minor difference in price amongst them all).

Laser or inkjet I would put on a thing layer of varnish just to protect it.

I think decals, once you get used them are so worth it. Why free hand when you don't have to.

Also, if anyone needs color changes or adjustments, let me know and I can do it.

Very awesome, thanks for these. Ill link it in the 'Infinity for Beginners' thread.

Edit: The terrain thread seemed more appropriate.

Are the decals thin? I tried decal paper once before and they were ridiculously thick.

I'm confused Dweller. Did you know you're supposed to peel the clear bit off of the backing paper? The thick paper bit goes in the bin and the clear layer which your print onto goes on the model.
Also the decals CDK posted are just the images for printing onto decal paper, he's not selling the printed sheets i don't believe.
If that's not what you meant i apologise.

Sometimes if you are printing your own decals the printer can put on a thick layer of ink. I've found though that most brands of decal paper is thinner than say your standard GW decal sheet. Which means you have to be even more careful.

The pictures I posted are .png files so they should be a pretty good resolution for printing. Just make sure you keep an eye on the percentage you are printing at. Print out on regular paper first to see if you got the size at what you want.

Very useful. This would take you a lot of time.

Thank you!!!

Casey's Law wrote:I'm confused Dweller. Did you know you're supposed to peel the clear bit off of the backing paper? The thick paper bit goes in the bin and the clear layer which your print onto goes on the model.
Also the decals CDK posted are just the images for printing onto decal paper, he's not selling the printed sheets i don't believe.
If that's not what you meant i apologise.

Err yeah, sorta confusing. I should have specified I ordered decal paper from MicroMark and it was quite thick, after applied to a model. Like, unusably thick. Are there other varieties of decal paper that aren't so thick and closer to the thinness you get from the decals in a model kit?

I'd love to be able to print out custom decals at home, but after my experience with the micromark paper i'd be hesitant.

Ah, i'm with you now, sorry if i sounded at all patronizing. I couldn't figure out what you were saying because although i researched this i haven't put it into practice yet.

I believe Testors paper is the best way to go. I got a lot of information from this thread:
Link.

Hope that helps!

I've updated the decal sheets to be smaller and with new icons.

For all the links above?!?

Wow!

Thanks!

 CDK wrote:
Laser or inkjet I would put on a thing layer of varnish just to protect it.

I think decals, once you get used them are so worth it. Why free hand when you don't have to.

Also, if anyone needs color changes or adjustments, let me know and I can do it.

Well, yes. I ALWAYS varnish after application anyway but my point was that the Inkjet ones REQUIRE the varnishing BEFORE application as well. The laser ones do not.
Inkjet ink doesn't set properly on the film and will wash away without this important step.
Laser film is waterproof and it takes scratching to get the colour off.

What a guy!

Working on Haqqislam and Nomads now. It would be easier if Devil Team would get the army creator done. I would get the logos from there to remake.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 chromedog wrote:

 CDK wrote:
Laser or inkjet I would put on a thing layer of varnish just to protect it.

I think decals, once you get used them are so worth it. Why free hand when you don't have to.

Also, if anyone needs color changes or adjustments, let me know and I can do it.

Well, yes. I ALWAYS varnish after application anyway but my point was that the Inkjet ones REQUIRE the varnishing BEFORE application as well. The laser ones do not.
Inkjet ink doesn't set properly on the film and will wash away without this important step.
Laser film is waterproof and it takes scratching to get the colour off.

I've never worked with laser so you are probably right on there. They way I learned it though was to put down a gloss varnish to help the decal contour to the surface easier. After than you can put what ever varnish you like on.

Nomads have been updated and Ariadna Caledonians have been updated to have McMurrough.

Aleph Decals updated. They are all on one sheet.

Just made a big update. Tohaa, Haqqislam, etc.

What a legend! Remind me to link this in the sticky if I haven't already.

Are these still for sale?

steve2112 wrote:
Are these still for sale?

Aren't they free to download? I don't think they were done as a money making venture.

 CDK wrote:

I've never worked with laser so you are probably right on there. They way I learned it though was to put down a gloss varnish to help the decal contour to the surface easier. After than you can put what ever varnish you like on.

That's basic principle of APPLICATION of the decal to a model. ALL decals work better like this.

I'm ws talking about the PRODUCTION ASPECT OF decals. Inkjet printer ink only SITS on the surface of the film - the varnish here is needed because when you wet them you reactivate the ink and it WILL wash away - and the varnish will prevent that. This is a separate thing to applying the varnish to the model prior to the application of the decal OR the application of varnish OVER the decal when you are done to lock it all down.

Laserprinters fuse the toner onto the film. It becomes PART of it. Doesn't wipe off, only scratches off. No lacquering required TO THE DECAL itself prior to use.
You will still get better results if you apply the lacquer TO THE MODEL before application and after application.

I HAVE a laserprinter AND the Testors laser film. It's a lot less fiddly to work with than the inkjet version. You must get the right one for your printer - as the wrong one in a laser printer will gum it up (they have different heat tolerances, and the inkjet ones melt inside the machine.)