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Ha ha. I'll keep that in mind for when I have a flyer.

needs to say tanks a lot on it though

Would've gone for fine-cast toilets. Oh well, better wait for forgeworld to get on that. Interesting stuff here, as always!

the terror toilet idea is something someone has to do!!!

and lol..dave... some peeps defenitly have too much time on their hands

and if i didn´t already said it... the painted box looks very good!

It was a "special payload" - there is a story behind it that I didn't read, but it was dropped over VietNam Probably some General got to take a dook in it first.

hmm.... seems a general of the same spirits () of apocalypse now...


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Charlie doesn't poo ?

Nice box Dr.. now that next project sounds right to me. Go get a flyer!

Thanks guys.

Dave: I suppose that shows just how necessary toilets are in the world.

I have a question;
This is the base colour of the cloak for Guardian #9. It will be camouflaged.
Question is, what sort of camouflage should I do?


Should I do it like the rangers on the GW site?


Or like a "typical" camo' scheme?


Or something different?
Or make it look like a kind of active/adaptive camo'?

Thoughts, Ideas, Suggestions, Inspiration....?

And as a treat, here's the painted box in a more natural environment.

wow , I don't think I looked at the labels on the bottles before

 Theophony wrote:
wow , I don't think I looked at the labels on the bottles before

Thanks Theo.
Yeah, the bottle of wine is just some squiggles and splodges but the other two bottles there (although you can only see one in this picture) should both be recognisable around the world.

the idea about adaptive camo sounds interesting... maybe with a kinda electricity field effect? as if the cloak just has brought the eldar ranger out into the open again... graven did such an effect for his mantis warrior...

 Viktor von Domm wrote:
the idea about adaptive camo sounds interesting... maybe with a kinda electricity field effect? as if the cloak just has brought the eldar ranger out into the open again... graven did such an effect for his mantis warrior...

I remember Graven's MW. This chap doesn't have a set background to work with though.

I am open to ideas of what adaptive camo' affect to use.
I wasn't thinking so much of the Predator "light bending" type of camo', but more of a "produce a camo' pattern that works well with the environment" type camo'. So the cloak here would look like it was "switching" from off to on, but probably not using the bright lightning cut off that is often seen on the Tau stealth team (as I do have some of them, and one will likely get that effect).

But I was also thinking of the effect that you see with the elven cloaks in the LoTR films, where when he covers himself, he looks like a boulder/piece of ground.

Still throwing ideas about at the mo, so feel free to throw ideas in the pot.

In other news, I have been playing with the plaster that arrived today. Will see later how those turn out.

I say go for organic camo

 shasolenzabi wrote:
I say go for organic camo

Example?

Depends on your setting really. I set things in a desert environment. Thus beige. I think maybe grey or grey dappled effect. Kind of blends in anywhere colour.

 Dr H wrote:

 shasolenzabi wrote:
I say go for organic camo

Example?

The spitfire is an example of organic camo, the lines are not straight, and have a rough look, organic, one can add in other colors, but pick the colors if desert, sand/brown and reddish or black maybe mustard color

woodlands uses loam green, forest green, brown and the black squiggles

My own camo is an example of "organic" style camo.

Camkierhi wrote:Depends on your setting really. I set things in a desert environment. Thus beige. I think maybe grey or grey dappled effect. Kind of blends in anywhere colour.

I tend to use good ol' mud and rocks for my bases with the occasional piece of greenery. Ta.

shasolenzabi wrote:

 Dr H wrote:

 shasolenzabi wrote:
I say go for organic camo

Example?

The spitfire is an example of organic camo, the lines are not straight, and have a rough look, organic, one can add in other colors, but pick the colors if desert, sand/brown and reddish or black maybe mustard color

woodlands uses loam green, forest green, brown and the black squiggles

My own camo is an example of "organic" style camo.

Oh I see. I thought it was a technical term for a style of camo' I hadn't heard of...
That's a hurricane actually, but it's really not easy to tell the difference from above, so I'll let you off.

Cool, ta. I do like that style of camo', which is why a lot of my model aircraft have it (if it was an official option).

Yeah, I call it organic as opposed to splinter pattern, or digital pattern camo


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Oh I see it as Hurricane now, but either plane was instrumental in the Battle of Britain!

 shasolenzabi wrote:
Yeah, I call it organic as opposed to splinter pattern, or digital pattern camo

It's a perfectly valid name for it. I couldn't think of one which is why I used a picture.
I assume it does have an official name, but

Oh I see it as Hurricane now, but either plane was instrumental in the Battle of Britain!

Indeed and both had that style camo'.

Too many variations to have a single name, but 2, 3, 4 and 5 color camo in any pattern exists

 shasolenzabi wrote:
Too many variations to have a single name, but 2, 3, 4 and 5 color camo in any pattern exists

Yeah, I suppose.
But what does the man in charge of ordering a new tank say to the paint-shop when he wants it to look like that? He can't say, "Y'know the wibbly wobbly one in green and brown"... It's probably just some alpha-numeric code from the What Camo! catalogue. *shrugs*

As I said, I had a go with casting with the dental plaster...

...It wasn't a total success...


So I'm about to have a look at changing the moulds.
To remove the lip around the edge, which will make it easier to get the casts out the mould.
To not be so ambitious with how thin I can make the casts.
And I'll use more plaster in my plaster, to see what difference that makes.

The toilet turned out ok, except for the broken base. But that was because the mould leaked a little and the level dropped, making it too thin to hold together.
I can at least experiment on it and see how it handles some gentle tidying...

I can find use for even the broken ones

 dsteingass wrote:
I can find use for even the broken ones

Indeed.
They're just not that useful for what they were intended.
Next lot is in, so will have to see how they turn out.

In the mean time I shall do some painting.

A suggestion.

And again as with all my suggestions, I am probably wrong.

When I am mixing up cement to patch in an awkward spot or even using Polyfilla, I sometimes use a diluted PVA mix instead of just water. This seems to add almost plastic qualities to the mix. I have used this several times in modelling. It adds rigidity to the few things I have tried to mould. It maybe worth a shot to get the thickness you are after and maintain a less fragile piece. The only slight word of warning would be, I generally use this mix to give better adhesive qualities. So it may cause probs for mould release.

Anyone please chip in here if I am wrong. I have personally had some success, but don't want to give bad advice here.

With dental plaster and silicone, you don't generally need a mold release agent. Not sure about the InstantMold though.

Yeah, there's no problem with sticking to the Oyumaru. The internet tells me it's a silicone based plastic and I've not found anything that it's stuck to permanently yet. It only sticks to itself when both bits are hot as well. So shouldn't be a problem.

I'll give that a go with the next pour, thanks Cam.

Dental stone is very fragile until its apx 1/8 in thick.

i´ve read that adding PVA helps to make the plaster less brittle too...

well we live, we learn, eh?...

and a rock painted camo claok...that would probably be an easier way....but risky to get right nevertheless...

Galorn wrote:Dental stone is very fragile until its apx 1/8 in thick.

Ta. Yeah, that first go ended up at probably 1/32in in places... I didn't intend to do it that thin, just how it turned out.

Second batch turned out better as they were thicker. One still broke, but into nice larger pieces (that I'm testing glue on).

I also discovered that the second batch were not quite set in the middle when I took them out the moulds, which might explain why one broke.
I've noticed that the first batch are whiter than the second batch, that may be a function of dryness and a way to check on their progress. This is currently under test.

A third batch is in the moulds, but I'll leave them much longer in the hope that they will be set (and stronger) when I do remove them.
I also have a test with some pva added to see how that differs.

I've also noticed that the first batch is very soft to sanding/carving, will have to see how the later batches (with more plaster and pva in) compare.

Viktor von Domm wrote:i´ve read that adding PVA helps to make the plaster less brittle too...

well we live, we learn, eh?...

and learning is fun.

and a rock painted camo claok...that would probably be an easier way....but risky to get right nevertheless...

Yeah, not sure how that could be done yet and still look like a cloak.
I haven't touched the cloak yet, so ideas are still welcome.
I've been painting the other bits of him (mostly the gun) today, so progress is still happening.
I should ask the internet for more camo' ideas too...

On the camo, just a thought but Grey, brown and dark green triangles of different sizes maybe. Be a bugger to paint, but would kinda look like the elven LOTR cloaks as worn by Frodo etc in movie.