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Hey guys, first time poster - have to make it a good one! In this case, it will blow you away!

After searching the interwebz far and wide for ways to strip plastic and resin minis WITHOUT losing detail or melting it, I gave up as was going to just use Simple Green...instead, I tried something new that looked promising!



This stuff works wonders on plastic AND resin minis!!!! Plain and simple, this is how I did it.

What you need...

Krud Kutter Graffiti Remover - $9.99 (US)
Toothbrushes - get some cheap, $1, FIRM or hard bristles.
Glass Jar if soaking


[b]What to do!

1.) Wash mini off - just for gaks and giggles!
2.) WEAR GLOVES and use in a well ventilated room! ( Trust me on this one...the fumes sting your nose and the
3.) Soak or spray mini - soaking works best for large figures while spraying is good for more pinpoint stripping (i.e. weapons, parts of clothing, etc. etc.)

Soaking: Leave in glass jar for 5 - 10 minutes. The paint will get tacky (no, the actual mini isnt melting, so dont freak!). Shake excess off and SCRUB with your toothbrush till you cant scrub no more! Rinse, repeat!
Spraying: Spray mini directly until heavily saturated and let sit for a few minutes ( 1 coat of paint can be generally taken off without waiting to begin scrubbing, however, heavier/more coats of paint require longer soak time; recommended wait time - 2 minutes after spraying)

4.) SCRUB WITH THAT TOOTH BRUSH!!!!!!!!!!!!
5.) Rinse with hot/warm water
6.) Repeat until results are satisfactory
7.) Thoroughly wash off mini in cold or lukewarm water and let air dry.


Things to note.....

Krud Kutter will eat your sink up - don't strip your minis in a nice sink!

Mind the paint that sprays from the brush as you're working the paint off the model - this can (in my instance) get all over your sink, and if not wiped up quickly, will stain and be a pain in the ass to clean up

You can strip all paint off your minis with Krud Kutter - including Citadel black / white spray can basecoats, as well as Taimya primers. - Scrub until you get to the original color of the mini, this might be slightly stained but nothing a new basecoat cant fix

Detail is the name of the game here - focus on scrubbing high detail areas to ensure you get all paint off - dont be afraid to put a little muscle into it! Just be careful not to break the mini!

Don't worry about getting into hard to reach areas - this can be covered up with a new dark basecoat.

I recommend using a black base coat to hide the little bits of paint you might have missed. I have not tried white basecoat but when I do, I will update this!

Be cautious when scrubbing around details of the model that are poorly connected to it - i.e. chains, syringes, weapons, etc - prolonged scrubbing of these areas increases the chance you will break it off, especially if its finecast!



I was able to completely strip my Hellbrute (with nearly 6 layers of paint on it!) in about an hour - 10 minutes of soaking, then scrubbing, rinsing, then repeated! I was also able to strip my finecast Lilith Hesperax in only 15 minutes down to the bare finecast - without ANY loss of detail whatsoever! Hope you guys find this informative. I will be working on a better example with pictures in the near future!

Oh btw....


You're Welcome!

Dettol (must be the brand, not sure of its availability outside Great Britain) is an anticeptic that removes paint from any metal or plastic model without fail... Yet to try it on resin!

As soon as you mention protective gear and sink eating power, it's not the best way. There's just as effective ways to strip minis that don't force you to wear protective gear or worry about what your sink will look like afterwards.

Welcome to Dakka though.

There are similiar post about this on Dakka all over. Can anyone show before and after shots?

 sphynx wrote:
Dettol (must be the brand, not sure of its availability outside Great Britain) is an anticeptic that removes paint from any metal or plastic model without fail... Yet to try it on resin!

Outstanding! I havent heard of that before so it must just be over seas. From what I understand, Krud Kutter is pretty available here in the states. Post some pics of your results on resin when you get the chance!


Automatically Appended Next Post:

Gundor wrote:
There are similiar post about this on Dakka all over. Can anyone show before and after shots?

Sorry, I didnt take any pics before beginning to strip, but bot models had 4-5 layers of paint on them. Here is the hellbrute...



This is after soaking (didn't want to waste so much krud kutter on 1 mini, so I sprayed heavily, let sit over a mason jar to catch the drip) and scrubbing. This had the heaviest paint layers, with nearly 6 layers of paint just on the skin from feth ups and re-basing him. Notice how all the detail is still there and still looks perfect, even after scrubbing, washing and soaking repeatedly for about an hour.


Here is the hellbrute now - a citadel chaos black basecoat over top.



Now here is something different - Lilith Hesperax! She had fewer layers of paint (3-4, 5 on some spots) but when using Krud Kutter with resin - you have to let soak longer - generally 20-30 minutes, followed by HEAVY scrubbing, since the paint like to cling to the resin really well. Again, no detail loss whatsoever on her - ignore the face, its partially melted, NOT from Krud Kutter, but from an earlier fuckup I made with acetone.



I am going to position her like she is jumping over something, change the arms to a venom blade and chain with blade (both from Wyches), and maybe add a mask to her face and use her as my new Succubus!

Again, with Krud Kutter - you can get ALL the paint off, you just need more patience then what I had. Both of these jobs were done in less than an hour. That was the biggest factor - time. I wanted to strip the minis rather quickly, and be able to paint them. With other chemicals, you general have to let it soak for longer (i.e. Simple Green soaking can take up to 3 days to strip 1 mini!)




Automatically Appended Next Post:

 Johnno wrote:
As soon as you mention protective gear and sink eating power, it's not the best way. There's just as effective ways to strip minis that don't force you to wear protective gear or worry about what your sink will look like afterwards.

Welcome to Dakka though.

Thanks! I should clarify - Krud Kutter isnt uber toxic, its actually a green chemical, so its all enviroment friendly. It can irritate your skin and it does smell funny. However, the key here was time and more importantly - it works on resin. Also, its simple - I've soaked Lilith for nearly a 1/2 hour (maybe longer, i didnt keep track of time ) and the resin mold was still hard as it should be and even the thin bits werent bendable. (Resin + simple green soaking = weapons and thin pieces on mini get tinted green and become really flexable - I havent found a fix to this as of yet). With Krud Kutter, i could throw the mini in - plastic or resin - and forget about it - didnt need to watch to make sure gak was melting or anything. Thats why I'm jerkin off Krud Kutter so much - its simple as gak to strip with and works unbelievably well.

As for the sink - yeah, that part does suck - I keep the water running when spraying the minis to make sure it rinses out of the sink, but the little bits that did get over the sink that I didnt immediately clean have eatten through the gloss protective layer of the sink and left it with a gritty feeling.

However, as gakky as it is - I've tried a lot of ways to strip minis - airbrush cleaner, acetone, brake cleaner, simple green, etc., etc., - but Krud Kutter is by far the best I've used.