Switch Theme:

Anyone Prime Models While On Sprue?  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in ca
Monstrous Master Moulder



Space Cowboy Cruising Around Olympus Mons

Hey everyone,
I am just about to go pick up a scout squad with snipers for my Space Marine army and I had a question about priming.
I wanted to see if anyone has ever tried to prime models while still on the sprue?

I know I would have to file down the mold lines and such but the only problem I see if where you clip the bits out from.
After you prime the models it would leave a big edge of unprimed area but couldn't this be fixed easily with a small file and a quick coat of black or white or whatever colour I choose to prime with?
   
Made in gb
Lit By the Flames of Prospero





Bearing Words in Rugby

Meh, I did that with a whole CSM battleforce, and wasted a can of spray.. You're better off doing it squad by squad, mainly because painting on white leaves a different effect to spraying it on, so unless you wanna go over those mold lines and the places you've cut from again with the spray can, then just do it with squads :3

Muh Black Templars
Blacksails wrote:Maybe you should read your own posts before calling someone else's juvenile.
 
   
Made in us
Hierarch




Pueblo, CO

I've only ever primed on the sprue once. The biggest issue I've come into is getting paint into/onto the gluing surfaces, which can be a right pain when you get to assembly.

Things I've gotten other players to admit...
Foldalot: Pariahs can sometimes be useful 
   
Made in us
Hurr! Ogryn Bone 'Ead!



The Frozen North

Take your time and do it right... Trim the parts off and clean up all the mold lines first before even thinking about putting any paint on it. You will have much nicer looking models in the long run.

You say that I am crazy. I say that you are right! 
   
Made in us
Storm Trooper with Maglight





Raleigh NC USA

The only thing I even consider doing on sprue was the old IG tank tread sprue.

There is a word for a wargamer with an empty paint bench.

Dead.

Mierce Miniatures wrote:

Plastic is getting better - but the quality of resin still pees all over it -
 
   
Made in us
Perfect Shot Ultramarine Predator Pilot






San Jose, California

For scouts, I would probably cut them off, clean up the mouldlines, mount the individual pieces and then prime.

being recalculated~4.5k 750 875 My p&m blog where there are space marines http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/545810.page DA:90+S+G++M++B--I+Pw40k12+D+A++/wWD-R+T(M)DM+
 TheDraconicLord wrote:
Holy crap, you have been pumping out Smurfs like a man-possessed
 Kid_Kyoto wrote:

Morris, tragically sold his soul to the Chaos Gods of Flowers, Dancing, Laughter and Friendship. The Morris Heresy is on record as the shortest and least successful heresy in Imperial history.
 Camkierhi wrote:
thats the best group of ass I've seen on the net, and I've looked at alot.
 
   
Made in us
Hurr! Ogryn Bone 'Ead!





SoCal

 HisDivineShadow wrote:
The only thing I even consider doing on sprue was the old IG tank tread sprue.


Same here. Otherwise my crippling OCD compels me to always clip and trim flash off all parts, never priming on sprue. I primed some parts (aside from said treads) and it caused me more grief in the long run fixing everything.
   
Made in gb
Lesser Daemon of Chaos





Hampshire, uk

As people have said above. it causes more hassle than it solves.

Now I'm airbrushing most of my Stuff. I clip everything off. and drill a tiny 1.2mm hole on the places that get glued. i then mount the bits onto cocktail stick. After trimming and cleaning, I poke these into a large piece of Polystyrene, like you get in an electrical item box. And i use that to hold the items wile i am under coating and base coating.

If you prime and paint stuff on the Sprue. you then have to repaint and clean up areas that where holding that piece.

Latest Blog Post: 7th edition first thoughts and pictures.

 
   
Made in us
Hoary Long Fang with Lascannon





Seattle, WA

The only time I ever did this was when I had some small bits for a commission. I've never done it with anything else.

Sven Bloodhowl's Great Company 2750
Nihilakh Dynasty WIP
Loki's Thousand Sons: 700 WIP

DQ:80-SG-M++B--I+Pw40k13#-D++A+/fWD-R+T(M)DM+ 
   
Made in us
Blood Angel Captain Wracked with Visions






Cut/clip the parts off the sprue, clean them up and test fit them before you start doing anything with them. Your miniatures will look better for it, and there should be fewer issues when it comes time to glue them all together.

 
   
Made in gb
Slaanesh Havoc with Blastmaster




UK

A friend of mine paints all of his Dark Eldar while they're on the sprue.

The result of this is that his models are insanely fragile, because gluing paint to paint when you assemble is a pathetically weak bond. Between having to clean paint off surfaces to be glued and having to clean and tidy up mould lines and the areas where it was actually attached to the sprue, it's not really worth the effort. You're switching some necessary work at the start of a project into necessary work at the end of a project, and making even more work during the assembly stage.

   
Made in us
Storm Trooper with Maglight





Raleigh NC USA

I'm quite anal about mold lines as well. I often find myself cleaning them from impossible to see areas.

Only to realize it, and continue anyway.

There is a word for a wargamer with an empty paint bench.

Dead.

Mierce Miniatures wrote:

Plastic is getting better - but the quality of resin still pees all over it -
 
   
Made in ca
Monstrous Master Moulder



Space Cowboy Cruising Around Olympus Mons

I agree about the clipped areas and how it'll look like junk if I don't sand them and prime them at the same time now that I think of it.

I normally take everything off the sprue and sand down mold lines and everything but I find I miss areas on the model when I use the spray primer.

Is there some better way to set the bits up to be primed?
   
Made in gb
Secretive Dark Angels Veteran



UK - Warwickshire

Certain components can be done like this, where one of the connections to the sprue is on a face that will be glued. Often this is legs attached by feet, heads by necks etc. I would hope that a sprue designer would endeavor to place these points as strategically as they can without compromising the mold quality.
I would still cut away and clean any connections that should be painted, and the mold lines before spraying though.

Can be handy to clip away the surrounding sprue, leaving a section to hold with most of the components free to work around and clean up, You could even build most of the model attached to the legs like this I suppose... much in the way many of use would pin to a cork by the feet I guess.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/05/30 03:25:10


'Ain't nothing crazy about me but my brain. Right brain? Riight! No not you right brain! Right left brain? Right!... Okay then lets do this!! 
   
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

chiefbigredman wrote:
I normally take everything off the sprue and sand down mold lines and everything but I find I miss areas on the model when I use the spray primer. Is there some better way to set the bits up to be primed?
I always remove parts from the sprue before priming for the all the reasons previously stated, but "off the sprue" doesn't have to mean "fully assembled." Every piece will have to connect to the rest of the model, somehow, meaning there is an as-of-yet unjoined surface you don't want painted. That's a prime candidate for your handle or temporary attachment point. Hidden undersides of feet or bases can be stuck to corks or empty bottles with poster tack. Guns and pipes can have a toothpick shoved down the (drilled, obviously) barrel. Limbs can be drilled for pins (glued in for use during assembly , or simply jammed in there temporarily for painting), or held onto corks or dowel lengths with poster tack on the mating surface (which simultaneously acts as a mask). Any of those methods gives plenty of access to the part, allowing you to spray from all the necessary angles for perfect coverage. Some parts you can simply spread out flat on some scrap paper or cardboard to spray, then flip and repeat once dry. What I would consider the ideal method varies from part to part, but there's always a way. Usually more than one, actually.

The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
 
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: