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so, i have finally aquired a glue capable of holding my Typhus model together, now, when i tried painting him, the paint simply thinned and would not hold, i do not have any purpose primer, and have simply been using my black paint for the purpose. so what do? i believe someone said something about washing the model first?

also, on the topic of putting paint on,how do i get it off? whats a good way to strip paint off of previously painted models?

 13whited wrote:
so, i have finally aquired a glue capable of holding my Typhus model together, now, when i tried painting him, the paint simply thinned and would not hold, i do not have any purpose primer, and have simply been using my black paint for the purpose. so what do? i believe someone said something about washing the model first?

also, on the topic of putting paint on,how do i get it off? whats a good way to strip paint off of previously painted models?

There's your big fault, you didnt use any primmer.
And as for finecast it doesnt require to wash before primming. as it's mixture makes up for it.
washing is normally done with normal resin meanwhile finecast is a mix of resin and bad plastics.. anyway
i'm not so sure how to stripp finecast but brake fluid works excelent on both metal and plastic models, just dont let it stay on longer than 30min.. and remember rubber gloves but as you havent even used any primmer i think it would be good enough to use soilent green or any other daily use soap to clean your house with. let it rest in the soapy water for a day and use a rough toothbrush.

 13whited wrote:
so, i have finally aquired a glue capable of holding my Typhus model together, now, when i tried painting him, the paint simply thinned and would not hold, i do not have any purpose primer, and have simply been using my black paint for the purpose. so what do? i believe someone said something about washing the model first?

the spray primers work wonders, but resin just sucks up a lot of paint... wish I could be more helpful here, but honestly... buy plastic when you can. (I know for many characters this isnt possible though, so you kinda gotta grin and bear it)

 13whited wrote:
also, on the topic of putting paint on,how do i get it off? whats a good way to strip paint off of previously painted models?

Now THIS I can help with. There is a product called Simple Green. It is sold in gallon jugs at the various "Mart" stores (K-, Wal-). Costs about $5-8.

1. Submerge the model you want to strip in the SG (I use it straight from the bottle, no need to dilute it) and let it soak for at least 12 hours. I generally do about 5-10 models at a time.

2. After the soak, extract a model and using the absolute softest bristled toothbrush you can find (I use a children's toothbrush because it is smaller and has the softest bristles) gently brush off the paint. It will definitely froth up when you scrub the miniature, but just a quick dunk into the soak will fix that. Be careful not to scrub too hard that you wear away some of the details though.

3. Run under water to rinse the leftover SG off, then let it dry before repainting. (I generally give it at least a 24hr dry time, just to be sure)

You might have to repeat the soak and scrub a couple times for the more detailed bits, but as a general rule, it is a 1 shot thing.

THIS WORKS FOR RESIN, PLASTIC, AND METAL MODELS


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 phatonic wrote:
i'm not so sure how to stripp finecast but brake fluid works excelent on both metal and plastic models, just dont let it stay on longer than 30min.. and remember rubber gloves but as you havent even used any primmer i think it would be good enough to use soilent green or any other daily use soap to clean your house with. let it rest in the soapy water for a day and use a rough toothbrush.

So we're cleaning with dead people now? lol ^^

There is simple green, purple power, LA totally awesome
the list is large for different striping agents

Resin models can come with some release agent that can mess with paint and primer layers so its best to wash them first (like in simple green).

It shouldn't be too hard to get a primer. especially from auto stores.
If not there are various brush on primers or even gesso IIRC that can be used to prime.

primer helps paint stick to the model which normally wont on bare plastic (not well anyway)

good luck

Finecast shouldn't really need washing before painting as it doesn't require a mould release agent. However it definitely does require priming. Primers contain etching agents which are designed to "grab" a surface and promote adhesion.

you should always wash metal and resin models first.... essentially, antthing that isn't pure injection moulded plastic, will need to get washed first.

Primer is a secondary issue. Applying paint straight out of the pot and doing a lot of dry-brushing will act like a very crummy primer. I've not had any issues painted over resin without primer. It's not perfect, but it's still paintable. Your issue is first and foremost a lack of washing.

You really do want to wash your Finecast figures. I've had entire sections of primer slide right off of models with large smooth areas (insides of cloaks). Wash like you would any resin but don't make the water too warm or you model will get all bendy.

I will also agree that washing Finecast is a definite must. It is best best to treat it the same way you would resin: wash with a toothbrush, mild dish soap, and warm water and rinse it clean warm water.

As far as plastic goes, if you handled it during assembly, it wouldn't hurt to wash to before you prime/paint. Your hands, even after washing them, still produce oils which can effect the paint application on plastic models. It is part of reason you shouldn't directly handle models while painting them either.

dawn power disolver will also work for stripping, and faster than purple power, simple green, etc. you need to be priming. army painter color primers are great.

Be careful with Dawn Power Dissolver on Finecast. I tried Fairy Power Spray (same/similar stuff) on a Finecast sprue and it softened so much I could practically bend it into a circle. Don't leave it in for very long! I'd try scrubbing it every half hour just to be sure if you go this route.

You need to wash the miniature in lukewarm water and prime it.

 sing your life wrote:
You need to wash the miniature in lukewarm water and detergent and prime it.

Fixed that for you, just water won't remove any oil/grease based substances but will run off them just like the paint is.

 azreal13 wrote:

 sing your life wrote:
You need to wash the miniature in lukewarm water and detergent and prime it.

Fixed that for you, just water won't remove any oil/grease based substances but will run off them just like the paint is.

The last FC model I bought only needed a dip in water before I painted it.

 sing your life wrote:

 azreal13 wrote:

 sing your life wrote:
You need to wash the miniature in lukewarm water and detergent and prime it.

Fixed that for you, just water won't remove any oil/grease based substances but will run off them just like the paint is.

The last FC model I bought only needed a dip in water before I painted it.

That's....that's not really the point....

The next model you paint may have mould release on it, or you may accidentally get something oily on it while you're assembling it, or any one of a dozen things that could go wrong.

By always doing the best thing (scrubbing with a soft toothbrush or similar in warm water and some detergent) you will almost certainly never have a paint job effectively fall off the mini because of an undetected foreign substance interfering with the paints adhesion.

I had any number of resin minis paint up just fine without washing them, until I didn't. I'm just trying to advise the OP (and yourself apparently) the best way of avoiding dealing with the same hassle.

This question was answerd perfectly very early on. simple green is what you need. and when you dont have primer i have had luck with krylon camo paint in case you have that laying around. Under no circumstances should you use a strong solvent like brake fluid. Doing this will make ur model soft and when you touch it will leave fingerprints(trust me I know) brake fluid was for back in the good old days when GW used metal and they still provided a quality product

Thank you all for the feedback, it's almost all been helpful. typhus is now assembled and painted (sadly still no primer, but i can strip it and fix it when i have more inclination) and my plague marine squad is soon to follow...now if i can get the motivation to finish my land raider...