Switch Theme:

Painting Metal Models  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in us
Stalwart Veteran Guard Sergeant





California

Hello painting community.

So I've been looking into getting some Imperial Guardsmen as allies for my Blood Angels. I love the way the Armageddon Steel Legion looks, very awesome in my opinion. But when I looked into getting some models, I see GW only sells them as metal models.

Are metal models harder to paint than plastic? I'm pretty hesitant about getting those models because of it lol. And are the GW metal figures single pose, or can you customize their poses or bitz?

Any advice will help, thanks!

Only in Death does Duty end

3rd Company

Bravo Two Seven "Ironhides"  
   
Made in us
Perfect Shot Black Templar Predator Pilot




Roseville, CA

Metal models aren't really any different, in fact I prefer painting metal as the heavier weight makes them easier to control for those of us who do most of their painting while holding the model (no vice grips).

The one thing that i always find myself doing that is a problem is actually kinda dropping the model while painting it and letting paint chip off of the edges. While plastic models and resin don't have this problem, the weight of the metal model causes quite a thud, and you'll lose your work. I have a metal Sanguinor and the nose was always getting chipped as I painted the backpack because I would let the model rest on its nose.

Make sure you use a good quality primer too, paint doesn't adhere to metal as well in my experience so you want something that's a real primer that will chemically bond with the model as much as possible.
   
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

BrotherVord wrote:
Make sure you use a good quality primer too, paint doesn't adhere to metal as well in my experience so you want something that's a real primer that will chemically bond with the model as much as possible.
Solid advice, that. On the painting end, that's all you really need to worry about - once the model is primed (and allowed to cure a bit), you're just laying paint on paint, same as with any other model.

Model prep may or may not be any more difficult, depending on the sculpt and your available tools. White metal is soft enough that you can cut thin parts with a knife, but scraping mold lines is less effective than on plastic (you aren't usually removing material, you're burnishing... with a tool ill suited to the task, no less). Files and emery boards will do a much better job, here. I like to take some fine steel wool to metal models, too, if they're looking a bit rough or oxidized, to get a nice, smooth surface (where appropriate). Not sure how many pieces the Mordians come in, but if they're multi-part, you may want to pin some of the joints, which adds to the construction time. Looking at GW's website image, though, I would guess that most, if not all, are one-piece affairs. As for customization potential, metal can take some limited bending and reposing just by hand pressure. Beyond that, it's pretty much the same as plastic, except it requires a bit more elbow grease when cutting and drilling. The number of pieces per model has more to do with a kit's potential flexibility than the material.

The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
 
   
Made in ca
Longtime Dakkanaut





Calgary, AB

I've found that there are issues with paint sticking to edges or where there are many creases. These places somehow become the attention of more wear and tear, so the paint will chip more. You will more likely than not have to use a varnish to protect the model when finished if you aren't already in the habit of doing so.

15 successful trades as a buyer;
16 successful trades as a seller;

To glimpse the future, you must look to the past and understand it. Names may change, but human behavior repeats itself. Prophetic insight is nothing more than profound hindsight.

It doesn't matter how bloody far the apple falls from the tree. If the apple fell off of a Granny Smith, that apple is going to grow into a Granny bloody Smith. The only difference is whether that apple grows in the shade of the tree it fell from. 
   
Made in us
Colonel





This Is Where the Fish Lives

Oadie hit the nail on the head. Metal models definitely take more prep-work than your run-of-the-mill plastic models, so be prepared.

Here is a pretty good (if in depth) article on the subject: http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.com/2009/11/tutorial-how-to-prepare-metal-miniature.html

 d-usa wrote:
"When the Internet sends its people, they're not sending their best. They're not sending you. They're not sending you. They're sending posters that have lots of problems, and they're bringing those problems with us. They're bringing strawmen. They're bringing spam. They're trolls. And some, I assume, are good people."
 
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: