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Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





Oceanic

What's the best modeling glue out there?

What makes it the best?

Personally, I'm digging the "Army Painter" super glue. I've used several different brands and nothing seems to glue two pieces together faster than Army painter.

My only issue with it is that it's a little runny and you don't notice you just glued your finger.

Also, it glues forge world resin amazingly. Nothing else I've used glues Forgeworld like the Army Painter one.

One of the reasons I'm asking is, Army painter super glue is hard for me to get here in Hawaii.

Thanks for sharing

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Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut




The BSI Insta-Cure is what I've been using for years for non-styrene. It's sold at most every hobby store I've been in, usually with the store's logo printed on it since that's the market that BSI caters to. I use the medium viscosity, gap-filling version (purple label).

What makes it the "Best"? It works. It's cheap. It's available.

The Army Painter stuff left me less than impressed, I'm glad it worked for you.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/03/20 18:53:36


 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





Oceanic

helotaxi wrote:
The BSI Insta-Cure is what I've been using for years for non-styrene. It's sold at most every hobby store I've been in, usually with the store's logo printed on it since that's the market that BSI caters to. I use the medium viscosity, gap-filling version (purple label).

What makes it the "Best"? It works. It's cheap. It's available.

The Army Painter stuff left me less than impressed, I'm glad it worked for you.


My FLGS has the gold version, $16 and it wouldn't stick ork feet to the base last night.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCiJ5Xnv1ClgVcGmmb-zQBlw

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Made in us
Savage Khorne Berserker Biker






Loctite superglue and Testors model glue with the metal tip appicator. IMHO


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Made in us
Slippery Scout Biker




Warrenton, VA

For plastics I was a HUGE fan of Tenax 7... Unfortunately due to a change in Federal Laws, it cant be made or sold in the States anymore...

I am using Ambroid Proweld. It is decent, just don't use the crappy brush that comes in its lid... I use an older sable brush for application.

For superglues, I am a fan of Gorilla Glue Superglue. Great stuff.

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Made in ca
Monstrous Master Moulder



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I was using Testors glue for plastic models and I ran out (it was crazy old glue) and bought some sort of crappy plastic model glue at a local hardware store.....needless to say it only worked half the time and sucked (I wish I knew the name so I could warn you)

Right now I am actually just using Gorilla Glue (which is just super glue) only thing it sucks for is sticking things to uneven bases (damn you polyfill bases)
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut




Johnnytorrance wrote:
helotaxi wrote:
The BSI Insta-Cure is what I've been using for years for non-styrene. It's sold at most every hobby store I've been in, usually with the store's logo printed on it since that's the market that BSI caters to. I use the medium viscosity, gap-filling version (purple label).

What makes it the "Best"? It works. It's cheap. It's available.

The Army Painter stuff left me less than impressed, I'm glad it worked for you.


My FLGS has the gold version, $16 and it wouldn't stick ork feet to the base last night.


Assuming that you're talking about plastic orks, it's not surprising. Use a plastic glue for that. I use the Testor's Model Master for most of my plastic figures. I use Plastruct plastic welder when I'm doing scratch builds with basic plasticard or building large kits. Got to use the proper glue for the task at hand. Any type of CA is not the right glue for plastic kits. Use plastic cement for plastic to plastic joints and save the CA for the metal and resin kits.

$16? How big was the bottle? I don't buy CA in bigger bottles than about 3/4 oz.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/03/20 23:35:10


 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






Pa, USA

Loctite Ultra Control Gel, or plain Loctite Original Liquid superglue.

I just glued a crabjack together last night, and messed up the polarity of a magnet. Let's try pulling it off... and let's try prying it off.... and no...

I was aiming to compare the Loctite vs Gorilla Glue, but I'm too happy with my Loctite. The gel is great for shock resistance. I'm gonna try the automotive gel next when I hit Advance Auto this week.

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The Frozen North

@Yourswordismine, Tenax 7 is definitely my favorite glue to use on styrene, when and what was the change that removed it from the market? I know that a couple years ago they ceased production for a time, however it became available again (something about finding a new source for bottles according to the supplier) and is still available at my local hobby shop. If it is indeed being pulled I will be buying out their stock while I can.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/03/22 01:43:19


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USA

 fenrir1997 wrote:
Loctite Ultra Control Gel, or plain Loctite Original Liquid superglue.

I just glued a crabjack together last night, and messed up the polarity of a magnet. Let's try pulling it off... and let's try prying it off.... and no...

I was aiming to compare the Loctite vs Gorilla Glue, but I'm too happy with my Loctite. The gel is great for shock resistance. I'm gonna try the automotive gel next when I hit Advance Auto this week.



I have 1 gabillion plastic orks assembled with the Loctite, love it so much. I hate plastic glues because they basically melt the models together and that never sat with me. I was also interested in the Gorilla Glue because I used some Gorilla tape to reassemble my living room the other day, but I have like 10 bottles of Loctite left from a sale I caught once. One day I'll try something new. Best part about the Loctite IMO is that I use it on my metal Battletech minis with no issues, and my plastic and resin GW models no issue.

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Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






commissarbob wrote:
@Yourswordismine, Tenax 7 is definitely my favorite glue to use on styrene, when and what was the change that removed it from the market? I know that a couple years ago they ceased production for a time, however it became available again (something about finding a new source for bottles according to the supplier) and is still available at my local hobby shop. If it is indeed being pulled I will be buying out their stock while I can.


Was a favorite of mine as well. However, it is still available in a round about way.

There was no new law banning manufacture, however the company was bought and the new owner did not want to continue dealing with the HAZMAT certs needed to manufacture it. The demand was high enough though that Micro Mark picked up manufacture using the exact same formula as Tenax 7R.

http://www.micromark.com/same-stuff-professional-plastic-welder-refill-2-fl-oz,9002.html

More recently, the original Tenax crew managed to buy the brand from the new owners and are (were, have...not sure if they are fully up and running) making the same glue with the same yellow label again at a new location. I know they were planning on being fully operational by last summer, but often times the various OSHA, EPA and other agency inspections drag on for a long time when dealing with large volumes of solvents.
   
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Fort Worth, TX

I use both Loctite Ultra Control Gel and Gorilla Glue super glues. The Loctite for precision spots, the Gorilla for larger areas.
For plastics, I use the standard Testors orange/red metal squeeze tube.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/03/23 15:59:39


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Pious Warrior Priest




UK

Any kind of Gel superglue is great. Doesn't smell as much, easier to control and doesn't run all over your fingers. Using a little tube of bostik currently and it even dries clear on the acrylic bases I'm using.

For plastic glue, anything with a brush applicator is best.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/03/23 16:19:46


 
   
Made in us
Steadfast Grey Hunter





Sanford, FL

+1 for the Loctite Ultra control gel. I use it on plastic, resin and metal. Strongest and toughest super glue on the planet IMO.

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