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Made in us
Pulsating Possessed Chaos Marine





Vero Beach, Florida

It's every time I get done with a model, a couple of months later (sometimes even a couple weeks) my models begin to chip. I paint Chaos marines and they seem to be notorious for losing paint on their greaves and especially their backpacks and shoulder pads. I am really not sure what to do. I've heard of some sort of glossy thing that you can coat your models with to prevent stuff like that. Y'all have any suggestions?

"Glory to the Iron father!"


 
   
Made in us
Ambitious Space Wolves Initiate




Are you priming?

   
Made in ca
Dakka Veteran




Victoria, BC, Canada

Ephriel wrote:
Are you priming?


I second this!

40k Orks 12000 points and growing
Ultramarines 2500
Salamanders 3500
Necrons 4000
Skitarii/cult mech 2500
Vampire Counts 3000 Points


 
   
Made in us
Pulsating Possessed Chaos Marine





Vero Beach, Florida

Yes, forgot to add that in, I do prime. It does help but cheaping still occurs.

"Glory to the Iron father!"


 
   
Made in us
Homicidal Veteran Blood Angel Assault Marine






Do you put a sealer on? Or just leave it once painted? Do you handle the models a lot before painting? Sometimes your skin oil can contaminate and weaken adhesion to the surface.

4500
 
   
Made in ca
Dakka Veteran




Victoria, BC, Canada

Ive personally never had a problem with paint chipping on models. Ive been doing it for 8 years or so. Build em, primed with GW chaos black, paint with GW paints... Never had an issue, Knock on wood haha!

40k Orks 12000 points and growing
Ultramarines 2500
Salamanders 3500
Necrons 4000
Skitarii/cult mech 2500
Vampire Counts 3000 Points


 
   
Made in au
PanOceaniac Hacking Specialist Sergeant




Lake Macquarie, NSW

The stuff is called varnish (GW calls it 'ard coat), and it comes in several varieties - you want the matte version. When it's too humid it creates a "frost" effect, so be careful of that. If it does happen, this article is about how to recover from it.

"Going to war without France is like going deer hunting without your accordion."
-Norman Schwartzkopf

W-L-D: 0-0-0. UNDEFEATED 
   
Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





If you don't want paint coming off your models...

1) Wash them in soapy water before you prime them (gets off mould release and also gets off any oil contaminants from your hands that might be on there from when you were handling them). I use dish washing detergent, as it doesn't have any conditioners that would leave a film on the model. You can noticeably feel the model is less slippery after washing it.

2) Prime them. Use a good primer, not just regular paint. Avoid handling them too much between washing and priming so you don't get oils off your hands between the plastic and the primer.

3) While painting, avoid handling the model, mount it to a cork or an old paint bottle so you don't have to touch the model itself while painting.

4) Once you're finished painting, apply a varnish. The toughest thing to do is a gloss varnish, if you don't like the gloss finish, apply a secondary coat of a satin or matte varnish to take away the shine. The gloss is the toughest, so apply that first and then apply either satin or matte to knock down the shine. Personally, I like Satin the best, it gives the most natural look to me, matte is a bit too dull, but each to their own.

If you do that and paint still chips off, you are probably handling the models too roughly.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/04/03 05:08:04


 
   
Made in us
Pulsating Possessed Chaos Marine





Vero Beach, Florida

 troa wrote:
Do you put a sealer on? Or just leave it once painted? Do you handle the models a lot before painting? Sometimes your skin oil can contaminate and weaken adhesion to the surface.


Yes, sealer! That's what my friend suggested. I don't know how to use it though, or when I should apply it. I do handle the models a bit, never thought of that.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
AllSeeingSkink wrote:
If you don't want paint coming off your models...

1) Wash them in soapy water before you prime them (gets off mould release and also gets off any oil contaminants from your hands that might be on there from when you were handling them). I use dish washing detergent, as it doesn't have any conditioners that would leave a film on the model. You can noticeably feel the model is less slippery after washing it.

2) Prime them. Use a good primer, not just regular paint. Avoid handling them too much between washing and priming so you don't get oils off your hands between the plastic and the primer.

3) While painting, avoid handling the model, mount it to a cork or an old paint bottle so you don't have to touch the model itself while painting.

4) Once you're finished painting, apply a varnish. The toughest thing to do is a gloss varnish, if you don't like the gloss finish, apply a secondary coat of a satin or matte varnish to take away the shine. The gloss is the toughest, so apply that first and then apply either satin or matte to knock down the shine. Personally, I like Satin the best, it gives the most natural look to me, matte is a bit too dull, but each to their own.

If you do that and paint still chips off, you are probably handling the models too roughly.


Now this is very detailed. Thanks much for the information. But what of this cork? Or old paint bottle? How do I mount them?

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/04/03 05:12:44


"Glory to the Iron father!"


 
   
Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





Instead of holding the model itself while you paint it, it helps to mount the model to something that you can hold.

Some people like to drill pins in to the feet and mount on cork, like so:

http://www.leagueofpainters.com/?p=1059

If the model is already glued to its base, I'll just blutac it down to an old paint bottle.
   
Made in us
Pulsating Possessed Chaos Marine





Vero Beach, Florida

Whats blutac?

"Glory to the Iron father!"


 
   
Made in au
Anti-Armour Swiss Guard






Newcastle, OZ

Tacky non-permanent poster putty. Usually in strips.




I'm OVER 50 (and so far over everyone's BS, too).
Old enough to know better, young enough to not give a ****.

That is not dead which can eternal lie ...

... and yet, with strange aeons, even death may die.
 
   
Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





 Lord Tarkin wrote:
Whats blutac?
Sorry, didn't notice you were American! Yeah, it's tacky poster putty...

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/231164616757?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=107

You can get it at places like Walmart.
   
Made in us
Pulsating Possessed Chaos Marine





Vero Beach, Florida

Ohhh ok, thank you, it's alright Allseeingskink. I'll try that then. Thank you everybody for your genious, this thread was quite a lesson.

"Glory to the Iron father!"


 
   
Made in de
Longtime Dakkanaut





Germany

There is GW purity seal, its a satin or matte varnish if I remember right.

Also, I got this trick: putting the purity seal directly on the model, even before priming helps to prevent chipping, as it forms a somewhat flexible layer that absorbs shocks much better. Only necessary for metal modells though.

Waaagh an' a 'alf
1500 Pts WIP 
   
Made in us
[ARTICLE MOD]
Huge Hierodule






North Bay, CA

You can also buy spray varnish. I like krylon gloss followed by armp painter matte. After painting and during play, try to pick up the models by their bases only. Lastly, you didn't mention how you were storing and transporting your figures. If they are being thrown into a box, they are going to get a lot of wear and tear.

   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User




Houston, TX

I usually blu-tac 25mm based minis to a soda bottle cap (the plastic screw on kind) since the bases are usually attached when I paint. For larger ones, I blu-tac to a cake decorating nail.

Some paints (like Vallejo Model Color) rub of very easily even on primer and need to be sealed if they are going to be handled.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2014/04/03 15:45:54


:3000 2nd edition
3000 pewter/lead
2500 Raven Guard
6000+ 
   
Made in us
Pulsating Possessed Chaos Marine





Vero Beach, Florida

 Ifurita wrote:
You can also buy spray varnish. I like krylon gloss followed by armp painter matte. After painting and during play, try to pick up the models by their bases only. Lastly, you didn't mention how you were storing and transporting your figures. If they are being thrown into a box, they are going to get a lot of wear and tear.


You're right, I didn't mention that. I store them sitting on a shelf, standing up. When I transport them I place them in a shoe box. Maybe that's part of the reason but I use to carry them in miniature carriers and the same thing happened. I guess I'll try matte varnish. Another thing is that I never really primed them with spray, I use to prime them abaddon black.

"Glory to the Iron father!"


 
   
Made in ca
Longtime Dakkanaut





Calgary, AB

 Lord Tarkin wrote:
It's every time I get done with a model, a couple of months later (sometimes even a couple weeks) my models begin to chip. I paint Chaos marines and they seem to be notorious for losing paint on their greaves and especially their backpacks and shoulder pads. I am really not sure what to do. I've heard of some sort of glossy thing that you can coat your models with to prevent stuff like that. Y'all have any suggestions?


metal or resin model? Have you washed the model before priming and painting?

Otherwise it's the usual diagnostic questions: checked your primer for quality? Are the conditions as suggested on the can? Temperature fluctuations? Is the paint you are using good?

15 successful trades as a buyer;
16 successful trades as a seller;

To glimpse the future, you must look to the past and understand it. Names may change, but human behavior repeats itself. Prophetic insight is nothing more than profound hindsight.

It doesn't matter how bloody far the apple falls from the tree. If the apple fell off of a Granny Smith, that apple is going to grow into a Granny bloody Smith. The only difference is whether that apple grows in the shade of the tree it fell from. 
   
Made in us
Pulsating Possessed Chaos Marine





Vero Beach, Florida

Resin models. Never ever washed my models. I'll include that in my work from now on.

"Glory to the Iron father!"


 
   
Made in ca
Longtime Dakkanaut





Calgary, AB

 Lord Tarkin wrote:
Resin models. Never ever washed my models. I'll include that in my work from now on.


there is your problem: mold release agent.

15 successful trades as a buyer;
16 successful trades as a seller;

To glimpse the future, you must look to the past and understand it. Names may change, but human behavior repeats itself. Prophetic insight is nothing more than profound hindsight.

It doesn't matter how bloody far the apple falls from the tree. If the apple fell off of a Granny Smith, that apple is going to grow into a Granny bloody Smith. The only difference is whether that apple grows in the shade of the tree it fell from. 
   
Made in us
Pulsating Possessed Chaos Marine





Vero Beach, Florida

Thank you. I never would of thought that was the problem. Timet try some blutac


Automatically Appended Next Post:
How do you know if paint is good?

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/04/04 01:54:59


"Glory to the Iron father!"


 
   
Made in ca
Longtime Dakkanaut





Calgary, AB

One of them is pigment, another is whether it's already 3/4 dried out. I've got some paints keep using despite having been brought back from the brink, and it's just not the same. I don't. Know what brand--or non-brand--of paint you are using. I've used some pretty cheap, pretty crappy acrylic paints. If you got it from GW, FLGS or an art supply store, you got nothing to worry about. Despite what people say, the bottled acrylic paint they have at walmart have for krafts is actually pretty good.thick and goopy, so not great for models without patience and prep-work, but brilliant for terrain and regular painting on canvas.

Also, it depends on. Your thinning.its been a while, but I recall cracking being an issue if i thinned the paint too much and it pooled. Doesn't sound lime you ahouldhave that problem though

This message was typed on an inferior crApple iFail. Product. I don't have the carrot go back. And correct the auto failed grammar. And spelling.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/04/04 07:24:49


15 successful trades as a buyer;
16 successful trades as a seller;

To glimpse the future, you must look to the past and understand it. Names may change, but human behavior repeats itself. Prophetic insight is nothing more than profound hindsight.

It doesn't matter how bloody far the apple falls from the tree. If the apple fell off of a Granny Smith, that apple is going to grow into a Granny bloody Smith. The only difference is whether that apple grows in the shade of the tree it fell from. 
   
Made in us
Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot





Los Angeles, CA, USA

 Lord Tarkin wrote:
 Ifurita wrote:
You can also buy spray varnish. I like krylon gloss followed by armp painter matte. After painting and during play, try to pick up the models by their bases only. Lastly, you didn't mention how you were storing and transporting your figures. If they are being thrown into a box, they are going to get a lot of wear and tear.


You're right, I didn't mention that. I store them sitting on a shelf, standing up. When I transport them I place them in a shoe box. Maybe that's part of the reason but I use to carry them in miniature carriers and the same thing happened. I guess I'll try matte varnish. Another thing is that I never really primed them with spray, I use to prime them abaddon black.


There is your problem. Abaddon Black is not primer. You either need a spray can of Krylon black primer, or you could use an airbrush. Paint is NOT primer.
   
Made in ca
Longtime Dakkanaut





Calgary, AB

 Todosi wrote:
 Lord Tarkin wrote:
 Ifurita wrote:
You can also buy spray varnish. I like krylon gloss followed by armp painter matte. After painting and during play, try to pick up the models by their bases only. Lastly, you didn't mention how you were storing and transporting your figures. If they are being thrown into a box, they are going to get a lot of wear and tear.


You're right, I didn't mention that. I store them sitting on a shelf, standing up. When I transport them I place them in a shoe box. Maybe that's part of the reason but I use to carry them in miniature carriers and the same thing happened. I guess I'll try matte varnish. Another thing is that I never really primed them with spray, I use to prime them abaddon black.


There is your problem. Abaddon Black is not primer. You either need a spray can of Krylon black primer, or you could use an airbrush. Paint is NOT primer.


I also use paint as primer. It's possible to do it, just not healthy for your brushes and not the greatest way to use paint. Primer helps, but it is not essential, but that depends on what you're aiming to do as well. I for instance will not waste primer on horde army.

15 successful trades as a buyer;
16 successful trades as a seller;

To glimpse the future, you must look to the past and understand it. Names may change, but human behavior repeats itself. Prophetic insight is nothing more than profound hindsight.

It doesn't matter how bloody far the apple falls from the tree. If the apple fell off of a Granny Smith, that apple is going to grow into a Granny bloody Smith. The only difference is whether that apple grows in the shade of the tree it fell from. 
   
Made in gb
Incorporating Wet-Blending





Wales: Where the Men are Men and the sheep are Scared.

Use an actual primer rather than just undercoating in acrylic.



 
   
Made in us
Three Color Minimum




Panama City, fl

my method, prime (my personal favorite is "rustoleum auto primer", the gray is a great place to start)> put down base colors> then a second color> airbrush gloss varnish> apply washes> clean up colors and highlight> optional: if you plan on weathering, this is a great time to do this step> matte varnish.
I don't seem to have much of a problem, just be careful to not put on too much paint in each layer to lose detail.
HOWEVER, once you put that last matte varnish, you can go a little heavier as long as it doesn't obscure the paint too much (clouding effect is a great way to ruin an otherwise nicely painted model.)

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/04/05 19:42:56


Dark angels 70/100 of deathwing, 50/100 ravenwing, 80-100 3rd company
IG +6k pts
and a sampling of different armies
warmachine, 40-50 points of:
protectorate, legion, and convergence armies 
   
Made in us
[ARTICLE MOD]
Huge Hierodule






North Bay, CA

I agree the the most likely cause of your problems is the use of abaddon black instead of a real primer. You can buy Krylon or Rustoleum flat black primer very inexpensively. It will stick better, be less expensive, and cover faster than your current method.

   
Made in us
Blood Angel Terminator with Lightning Claws





North West Arkansas

Excellant advice here! Wash in soapy water, prime, then do something like this to keep your grubby mitts off the model, also wash your hands before you start. Then my bit to this thread is to use something like this to hold your model so you don't touch it while you paint.

[Thumb - IMG_3784.JPG]

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/04/06 00:56:36


Crush your enemies, see them driven before you and to hear the lamentations of the women.

Twitter @Kelly502Inf 
   
Made in us
Pulsating Possessed Chaos Marine





Vero Beach, Florida

Ok, abaddon black is the problem then. What do I do if that has already been done?

"Glory to the Iron father!"


 
   
 
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