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would anybody be able to identify this model please

i know its dark eldar, i just dont know what edition or what model

3rd Edition Talos.


Looks like you're missing one of the arms but you've got the claw for it.


Actually looks like it's missing the twinlinked splinter whatsit off the top of the tail bit, and maybe the fiddly little spikey bits that went along the sides towards the back. Still, a bit of repair and some spare guns and he should be back up in no time.

Because a pic is worth 1000 of those, um, thingys, whatdayacallthem?

 Azreal13 wrote:


Because a pic is worth 1000 of those, um, thingys, whatdayacallthem?

I believe they are called Words. You know, the things on the Word Bearers' armor.

Ahh so he doesn't have the claw either, just the pointy thing what goes on top.

I know a lot of people disagree but the new Talos is sooooo much better than that one.

Verviedi wrote:

 Azreal13 wrote:


Because a pic is worth 1000 of those, um, thingys, whatdayacallthem?

I believe they are called Words. You know, the things on the Word Bearers' armor.

You mean the Whatsit Bearers, right?

 Azreal13 wrote:

Verviedi wrote:

I believe they are called Words. You know, the things on the Word Bearers' armor.

You mean the Whatsit Bearers, right?

Shortsale Bearers.

I'll give you that the new Talos fits the new aesthetic better, and in some ways it's cooler. They've had a lot of time to work on their sculpting plus it was a modular plastic kit as opposed to the chunky metal talos of olden days.

Having said that, the old Talos will always be more sinister/hardcore/metal/whateveryoucallit because it's actively torturing someone in plain sight and literally being fueled by that pain. So it wins thematically, for me at least

 GrimDork wrote:
I'll give you that the new Talos fits the new aesthetic better, and in some ways it's cooler. They've had a lot of time to work on their sculpting plus it was a modular plastic kit as opposed to the chunky metal talos of olden days.

Having said that, the old Talos will always be more sinister/hardcore/metal/whateveryoucallit because it's actively torturing someone in plain sight and literally being fueled by that pain. So it wins thematically, for me at least

Do you mean the model is? I can't see that, is it on the bottom? If you mean fluff wise, don't they both do that?

The old one does have a bit of vintage charm but the new one is my favourite kit in the DE range I think

At the base of the tail there's an entire flayed upper torso exposed with a metal helmet on his head doing god knows what.

Huh. I never noticed that. That's pretty cool!

i have the claw and the twin-linked splintercannon thinggies but super glue doesnt work to make it go back on, any ideas how to make it go back on?
in addition would it be legal to use in a standard casual 40K game?

asdrubeal vect124 wrote:
i have the claw and the twin-linked splintercannon thinggies but super glue doesnt work to make it go back on, any ideas how to make it go back on?
in addition would it be legal to use in a standard casual 40K game?

Not only is it legal in a casual game, but I'm pretty sure it's legal in a tournament. Any and all games workshop figures are fine to use, no matter the release year. Even if the sizes and everything have changed.

For example, I'm pretty sure my old tyranid biovores (tiny things on small bases) are still legal to use, even though the new ones are 3x the size and on much bigger bases.

Sculpting for advantage is frowned upon, but if its an official release then you didnt do anything.

HOWEVER : They may require you to put the old model on the correct current base size? Especially as some old models were on square bases... I'm not sure about that tbh. I still have some square based warriors I havent changed over.


PS: This is all from my own knowledge, and therefore I may be totally wrong.

The old Talos is also a serious contender for minis you don’t want thrown at your head. Big chunk of spiky lead.

Kids these days with their plastic and resin. Back in the day, we played with a table full of potential murder weapons.

 Nevelon wrote:


Kids these days with their plastic and resin. Back in the day, we played with a table full of potential murder weapons.

Potential murder weapons? Obviously you were playing 40K wrong back then, if they were only potential murder weapons.

 Nevelon wrote:
The old Talos is also a serious contender for minis you don’t want thrown at your head. Big chunk of spiky lead.

Kids these days with their plastic and resin. Back in the day, we played with a table full of potential murder weapons.

As I remember, the old Juggernaut models still hold the title there. I still have a scar from where one hit me.

2nd Ed Metal SM Dreads, no spikes, but a lot of right angles!

lol, so i started a thread for people to reminisce glad to be of service, Do any of you have any tips for possible ways to glue his arm and splinter cannon back on???, would magnetizing it work

 asdrubeal vect124 wrote:
lol, so i started a thread for people to reminisce glad to be of service, Do any of you have any tips for possible ways to glue his arm and splinter cannon back on???, would magnetizing it work

Hard to magnetize old metal models with pieces hanging off at angles like that. I would avoid that and try for pinning the pieces and creating firm placements for them using GS.

 techsoldaten wrote:

 asdrubeal vect124 wrote:
lol, so i started a thread for people to reminisce glad to be of service, Do any of you have any tips for possible ways to glue his arm and splinter cannon back on???, would magnetizing it work

Hard to magnetize old metal models with pieces hanging off at angles like that. I would avoid that and try for pinning the pieces and creating firm placements for them using GS.

Yup, Pinning and GS, the two main staples of metal minis. While you can get away with just superglue for some things, models with spindly bits and small contact points are unforgiving.

alright then.. XD where do i get this GS?

 asdrubeal vect124 wrote:
alright then.. XD where do i get this GS?

http://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Green-Stuff

GW sells it. Like most hobby supplies, you pay twice as much for half the product, but it works. It’s your basic 2 part epoxy. Check you local craft/hardware stores, you can probably find a better deal. Or online.

That said, I use the GW stuff. I bought one pack of it sometime back in the 90s, and still have most of it. I just use it for joints and patches, so a little goes a long way. People who sculpt with it burn through it a lot faster though.

alright, i dont expect to be "sculpting" with it, i would just like to get it back on so it looks semi-new xD

on a side note, how the heck do you magnetize a model in the first place... i've seen loads of people have them and makes me jealous

 Nevelon wrote:
The old Talos is also a serious contender for minis you don’t want thrown at your head. Big chunk of spiky lead.

Kids these days with their plastic and resin. Back in the day, we played with a table full of potential murder weapons.

The Talos was released in 1998 at least. GW had stopped using lead in their models in 1996. [/wargaming nerd]

Grimtuff wrote:The Talos was released in 1998 at least. GW had stopped using lead in their models in 1996. [/wargaming nerd]

I bow to your superior pedantic nature. I lived through the change to alternate alloys, but still refer to metal minis affectionately as lead, even if they are “white metal” “ralidium” “pewter” or whatever they want to call themselves. I’m an old grognard like that...

asdrubeal vect124 wrote:alright, i dont expect to be "sculpting" with it, i would just like to get it back on so it looks semi-new xD

on a side note, how the heck do you magnetize a model in the first place... i've seen loads of people have them and makes me jealous

First, get the right tools. You will need a stack of magnets, a pin vice w/ bits the same diameter as said magnets, and some superglue. Probably some green stuff, depending on the mini and how careful you are drilling.

(and since I recently took a picture of my tools for another thread


For marines I use 2mm diameter, 2mm deep magnets. Other armies and projects might need different sizes. Mostly it’s just a case of being careful, and making sure everything is pointing in the right direction. The other thing is to be sure you get the magnet flush, and don’t sink it too deep into the model. Dropping a little ball of GS into the hole can fix that. It’s also useful to have when you need to build a spot to stick the magnet.

Here is an example:


The back of the marine was easy, you basic drill and slot. For the jump pack I needed to do more work. I started by dropping a ball of GS into the hollow, then placing the magnet where it needed to be. Then using a spare bit of sprue I pushed it mostly in place. Last step was to take a spare backpack, lightly wet it (so the GS didn’t stick) and pressed it into place to get the nice recess for the nub on the back to fit into to line things up. If you wander over the the P&M section of the boards, people much better then I can give you more detailed advice.

alright i'll head over there thank you nev
and best of luck to ye if we ever meet on the field of battle,
beware i wont be honourable if i'm fighting with DE

Word of advice, don't buy green stuff from GW, you'll pay significantly over the odds for it.

The real name is kneadatite, and can be bought for much less if you look for this.