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Made in us
Despised Traitorous Cultist





New Jersey

Hey all, so I just wanted to drop in a few pictures of some weathering work I've done on my Sicaran Battle Tanks tracks, get all of your opinions, thoughts, and critiques. Obviously I'd love to know if you like it, dislike, or how I can make it better, mind you, this all just work in a progress! lol
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Made in us
Legendary Master of the Chapter






It looks a bit coppery imho

but maybe its the light combined with the blue/green/turquoise color.

what exactly are you going for?

 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in us
Despised Traitorous Cultist





New Jersey

 Desubot wrote:
It looks a bit coppery imho

but maybe its the light combined with the blue/green/turquoise color.

what exactly are you going for?


Well the chasis isn't completely perfect yet(It's going to be the Forge World Style Iron Hands with the greenish/oil slicked black), I still need to do more work there. But as far as the tracks go, they are Typhus Corrosion for the muddy effect, with Necron Compound Dry Brush to show the wear-and-tear that the tracks of any armored vehicle go through IRL, then used Ryza Rust was applied via sponge for spotty weathering as rust builds, and then used Nilakh(Think thats how its spelled) Oxide to show water and corrosive liquids coming out of the spaces in tracks, and track links where it built up. So just going for grimy, corroded, rusted tracks.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
And I also see what you might be getting at, if your saying what I think, I may have some areas where I applied too much Ryza Rust. If thats what your saying of course?

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2016/07/20 23:28:34


 
   
Made in us
Legendary Master of the Chapter






Im just saying the combination of the rust and nilakh or whatever makes it look like copper instead of steel tracks.

if anything i think you dont really need the nilakh color.

id go rust color base> steel colored dry brush to show the high spots where it would wear faster> wash browns and blacks (maybe the new gloss washes for that wet greasy look mmmmmmm)

then sponge up some high spots with rust again to make it pop.

having the tracks be more rusted also would contrast super nice against the stark iron hand colors. imho

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2016/07/20 23:46:01


 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in us
Despised Traitorous Cultist





New Jersey

 Desubot wrote:
Im just saying the combination of the rust and nilakh or whatever makes it look like copper instead of steel tracks.

if anything i think you dont really need the nilakh color.

id go rust color base> steel colored dry brush to show the high spots where it would wear faster> wash browns and blacks (maybe the new gloss washes for that wet greasy look mmmmmmm)

then sponge up some high spots with rust again to make it pop.

having the tracks be more rusted also would contrast super nice against the stark iron hand colors. imho


Hmmmm... I could see your point there, I'll have to check it out, and try it on one of my older tanks and compare the two, and which ever looks better I'll stick with, but your input is appreciated! and I will definitely check it out and see how it goes.
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut





Outer Space, Apparently

As Desubot said, the Nihilakh Oxide gives the impression that the tracks are made of copper - not an ideal material for super heavy tracks!

When I repainted my Leman Russ tanks, I just used Stirland Mud instead of Typhus Corrosion to build up the effect on the tracks, and also flicked it up the tank's lower plating to give the effect of mud that had splashed up it and dried there. If you want to add more definition to it, you just add a light drybrush of Terminatus Stone

You could try that instead if you're not happy with the current job, but outside of the oxidation, I think it looks pretty cool I would also add that some rust in all the recesses of the track links will make the effect more realistic, as rust tends to build up in those areas first

G.A

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2016/07/21 00:10:57


G.A - Should've called myself Ghost Ark

Makeup Whiskers? This is War Paint! 
   
Made in us
Despised Traitorous Cultist





New Jersey

Thanks man, Only weather I've done so far is just the tracks, the real work is the chasis, I've got to add alot more Biel-Tan/Agrax/Nuln Oil to the actual chasis to get the perfect blend of colors for the Forgeworld Color Scheme with that worn weather greenish/brown.

As far as the Nilakh Oxide, I did it as if it had rolled through corrosive liquids, such as an acid swamp, or just a pool of corrosive liquids.
   
Made in fr
Fresh-Faced New User




Perfect for an abandonned tank i guess, but it's a bit too far for a working tank.

Though, could you make a tutorial ?
   
Made in us
Legendary Master of the Chapter






 Tech4417 wrote:
Thanks man, Only weather I've done so far is just the tracks, the real work is the chasis, I've got to add alot more Biel-Tan/Agrax/Nuln Oil to the actual chasis to get the perfect blend of colors for the Forgeworld Color Scheme with that worn weather greenish/brown.

As far as the Nilakh Oxide, I did it as if it had rolled through corrosive liquids, such as an acid swamp, or just a pool of corrosive liquids.

IF its corrosive or gross things that you want then maybe go with a more yellow green (like radiator fluid color)

maybe use vajello fluorescent colors in yellow and or green. second option would be to mix those with a gel medium or a varnish type so it looks slightly goopy.

though you might be hitting nurgle Territory soon

 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in us
Despised Traitorous Cultist





New Jersey

Thiberius wrote:
Perfect for an abandonned tank i guess, but it's a bit too far for a working tank.

Though, could you make a tutorial ?


I can't take credit for this to be honest lol, I was doing research on some weathering effects as well as just looking for general ideas on a tank and stumbled across a video on youtube that pretty much covered everything I needed to know, the only difference is I didn't use any air-brushing. But heres the links!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lKGti5URbCk - Part 1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cp5M1s-ss18 - Part 2

The weathering for tracks is in part 2. But it's full of great techniques that really help you!


Automatically Appended Next Post:
 Desubot wrote:
 Tech4417 wrote:
Thanks man, Only weather I've done so far is just the tracks, the real work is the chasis, I've got to add alot more Biel-Tan/Agrax/Nuln Oil to the actual chasis to get the perfect blend of colors for the Forgeworld Color Scheme with that worn weather greenish/brown.

As far as the Nilakh Oxide, I did it as if it had rolled through corrosive liquids, such as an acid swamp, or just a pool of corrosive liquids.

IF its corrosive or gross things that you want then maybe go with a more yellow green (like radiator fluid color)

maybe use vajello fluorescent colors in yellow and or green. second option would be to mix those with a gel medium or a varnish type so it looks slightly goopy.

though you might be hitting nurgle Territory soon


Papa Nurlge loves everyone..? But yeah, I get what your saying, and I'll probably cover the oxide and still have alot of weathering work to do(As well as painting the chasis, the FW Scheme for IH is not coming out just how I want so time to rethink it! ).

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2016/07/21 17:35:04


 
   
Made in us
Douglas Bader






You shouldn't have any rust on the tracks. Any rust that did start to accumulate would be immediately worn off as the track scrapes along the ground. For weathering tracks you mostly want dirt and dust accumulating in the low points, possibly with some bright bare metal scratches on edges that would see the heaviest wear.

There is no such thing as a hobby without politics. "Leave politics at the door" is itself a political statement, an endorsement of the status quo and an attempt to silence dissenting voices. 
   
Made in fr
Fresh-Faced New User




Thanks a lot mate !
I'll give it a try, for any destroyed tank/building/stuff that would lay down on a battlefield

I've tried a good technique, but i don't have any pics here, i'll post it later (follow this sub)

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2016/07/22 12:15:13


 
   
 
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