Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
Times and dates in your local timezone.
Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.
Well, the utter wasting of a good brew, at least. Maybe not so much the “why does this tea taste OH GOD NO!”, but it’s been closer more often than my ego would care to admit...
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/11/08 22:27:06
ced1106 wrote: For assembly-line painting, if your locality of physics causes your miniatures to dry just after you apply paint, washes, and glue, sure, go for it. I'm not going to "pop off" a miniature and risk the dried part of the wash sloughing off or bits of basing material coming off the base before the miniature has dried.
The image of a dakkanaught spraying wash everywhere trying to remove a model from a holder just reminded me of this video...
Oh god. you had me there. I almost choked on my coffee. Two thumbs up, would watch again.
Sometimes I wonder if people intentionally try and think up problems instead of seeing the merits in what the product can be used for.
It's a GW product. There's no question that you're right. I mean, GW have enough legitimate issues to bitch about yet people desperately try to do exactly what you've illustrated here.
Automatically Appended Next Post:
Warpspy wrote: Honestly i don't get it.
It seems like a waste of money for me... if you want to paint GW style, whole squads at a time, its main advantage is pointless as you have to change and manipullate the model every time you want to paint a new colour (if you want to paint like in a "production line"). If you want to paint a model for cabinet display, usually you paint the model and its base separately...
I think this is like that fancy plastic thing, but much more cheap and readily available:
I find that wine corks are the best to this purpose. You drill and pin the feet of the mini with some wire and press it in the wine cork . The result is strong enough to be painted easily. Then after being painted, its a matter of cutting the excess wire, drilling a pair of holes in the base (in case you didn't do it yet) and attaching the model to the base. After that, the cork is even reusable... And you can sculpt things on it, even polymer clay that needs to be baked, as the cork won't melt in the oven.
So people thinking in buying this, well, anyone can do as they wish, but as i said, i don't get it
Simply put: It's not for you. I don't like the idea of drilling and pinning models to a cork for painting. I also paint a lot of older metal models and like to leave the tab intact. I rarely but sometimes need to use paint pots for individual models, so these things might be a better solution for me in those situations. It's not a one-size-fits-all tool, but I'm sure it can work nicely for some people in various situations. So I don't see a problem with it.
I'd certainly prefer the ease of clip-on, clip-off tool than fething about with wire and drilling, and I can certainly afford one or more of the tools, so...
On the corks subject. Another option is attaching the model to the cork with the base, via using blutac or similar stuff. Adding a little bit of blutac to the base of the cork will keep it from falling or moving when you place it on the table. However, i said the drilling feet things because i'm used to painting the model and the base separately, and gluing them together after being painted.
Of course i have not any problem with people buying and using this thing, the only thing i was saying is that in my opinion, i see it worthless and i don't get why people would buy it... but i also don't understand smoking and people keeps doing it, so i guess each on their own. I'm expressing my opinion as everyone else, that's it, i'm sorry if someone felt bad about it, as it's not my intention
Consider your thought of using blu tac for the cork, but instead of using cork, using something like a paint pot (or a piant pot filled with water or more blu-tac for extra weight/stability) so you can put it down and leave it on a table upright for awhile. Same thing, but slightly different, right? And different enough to be significant, right?
Now look at this tool as another "similar-but-different" variation on that same theme. Cork-and-wire. Cork-and-Blu-Tac. Paint Pot-and-Blu-Tac. Weighted Paint Pot-and-Blu-Tac. That one from the kickstarter with the finger holder. Citadel Model Handle thingy.
I'm not saying that I love it or that it'll be useful for me at all. I have no idea. I'll need to handle one in person to see how it feels, what the weight is like and if it's stable to be left on a table in the way I like. But it's another tool. You can use it or not use it. It's entirely optional.
You can buy Apple Barrel craft paints and use them happily with good results or use Citadel or Reaper or Army Painter or Vallejo or Scale 75. You can use the Citadel Modelling tool or dental tools or metal sculpting tools or silicone-tipped sculpting tools with different hardness. You can use Milliput or Vallejo Plastic Putty or Citadel Liquid Greenstuff, or GW-branded Greenstuff or Kneadatite from anywhere else or Pro-Create or Testors tube putty or Squadron Green putty or none of them or all of them. You can buy your "weathering powders" from Forge World or Kromlech or Vallejo or MIG or any number of Dry Pigments (which are the same thing) from the art supply store. Again. Multiple options. No obligations.
This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2017/11/09 02:34:09
An extra topper for the painting handle is planned i guess.
It will be interesting to see what this 'extra topper' is and when (or if) it shows up.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/11/10 18:38:58
'It is a source of constant consternation that my opponents cannot correlate their innate inferiority with their inevitable defeat. It would seem that stupidity is as eternal as war.'
- Nemesor Zahndrekh of the Sautekh Dynasty Overlord of the Crownworld of Gidrim
It looks like the clamp just screws onto the handle, so it should be easy for GW to make a larger clamp and other options for the handle.
'It is a source of constant consternation that my opponents cannot correlate their innate inferiority with their inevitable defeat. It would seem that stupidity is as eternal as war.'
- Nemesor Zahndrekh of the Sautekh Dynasty Overlord of the Crownworld of Gidrim
I picked one up today. The GW store was sold out but the store down the road still had a few.
It's okay, it does fit 25mm and 20mm square bases, they can be a bit trickier to get in but once they're in it's fine.
It's a good size, bigger than I was thinking from the pictures.
It's pretty easy to get models in and out. It does take 2 hands but I think it'll be fine for assembly line painting. You don't have to violently pop out the models like a previous poster was saying, just hold the base with one hand, open the clamp, angle the base and the model slides out easily.
The downsides, the head is a bit chunkier than it needs to be. I obviously wasn't expecting to have awesome access to the model as if you'd mounted it on wires, but the head blocks off more than is necessary IMO, especially if painting a model with a smaller base because such models will sit in a deeper groove in the head.
I'm also going to have to learn to brace my hands together when using it. In general when painting you try and rest your hands on each other in some way, I think it should be fine with the handle, just have to get used to a slightly different position.
Overall I think it'll be good for reducing hand strain which is what I bought it for.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/11/11 08:25:44
If the head can be removed, this thing is crying out for additional extras, like a soft touch clamp for holding individual bits which would be great for me as I do a lot of sculpting so and I do get hand cramps, not to mention the odd tremor. You could sit this down on the table, and use your spare hand to steady the other, that would be fantastic, it's tricky to rig something up that's reliable.
Be Pure!
Be Vigilant!
BEHAVE!
Show me your god and I'll send you a warhead because my god's bigger than your god.
I haven't been able to get models in with 1 hand at all. With both hands it's easy, hold the base and one side of the holder with one hand and the other side of the holder with the other.
Not much of a problem, I just hold my brush in my teeth while swapping models.
40mm is the max but it is a tight fit. Holds it a bit harder than I'd like, get worried I'm going to mar the base edges.
Yodhrin wrote: Aye, but even if it comes to that it seems easy enough to just press the openy-thingie and take the model out of the clampy-wotsit by holding the base.
When I get my version out on the market, 'openy-thingie' and 'clampy-wotsit' are totally going on the instructions...
Don't forget to add TM to the terms!
The Auld Grump
Kilkrazy wrote:When I was a young boy all my wargames were narratively based because I played with my toy soldiers and vehicles without the use of any rules.
The reason I bought rules and became a real wargamer was because I wanted a properly thought out structure to govern the action instead of just making things up as I went along.
2000 Khorne Bloodbound (Skullfiend Tribe- Aqshy)
1000 Tzeentch Arcanites (Pyrofane Cult - Hysh) in progress
2000 Slaves to Darkness (Ravagers)
5000pts 
6000pts 
3000pts
Imperial Fists 405th Company 
Black Templars 4000 
Deathwatch 6000
