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Vallejo Non Metallic Metal Color kit - the right start?  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
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Made in ch
Legendary Dogfighter





RNAS Rockall

Yaho,

So I bought this a while back and presently tried out the silver/iron on a Kastellan robot bought for the purpose. The result was *dire* despite using an airbrushed black foundation and base coat as well as a number of decent brushes with 2-3 layers of thinned paints for each highlight step. The reviews hint that it's the wrong colour selection, and by virtue of being game colour instead of model colour I found the results as a whole to come off rather 'tacky' and mono-blocked instead of the blending the model paints seem to do better.

1. Has anyone tried this kit and found a similar problem?
2. I wasn't really able to get anything like the gentle blending steps indicated in the guide, is there a particular paint application technique required for NMM?
3. Is there a better started kit?

At the moment NMM isn't particularly appealing since I get better, faster results with metallic inks and airbrushing, but I figured it would be worth trying something new - sadly the kit hasn't sold me on the method :|

Some people find the idea that other people can be happy offensive, and will prefer causing harm to self improvement.  
   
Made in us
Contagious Dreadnought of Nurgle






I have that set, and I really like it for NMM gold. Angel Giraldez is probably my favorite miniature painter so having the guide by him is a bonus. I haven't really used the steel colors yet, I made up my own recipe for that type of NMM. I recommend not going with a starter kit if you don't like the results from these colors; just experiment with colors you think would look good.

NMM is definitely a challenge and it takes a really long time to get decent results compared to most other styles of painting. My previous army was a Ravenwing army done in NMM and it was a horrific process.

From what I learned, glazing in many, many very thin layers is what you have to do to get the blends you need, especially since the whole idea is to quickly transition between areas of very high contrast. It just takes a long time to do. NMM is also all about lighting, so studying volumes and lighting is an obvious thing to do.

If you really want to get into NMM it is just going to take a lot of practice and experimentation. I can highly recommend Angel Giraldez's books because he paints solely in NMM and has some really nice guides. His 'Angel Giraldez Masterclass: Miniature Painting from A-Z Vol. II' book, in spite of its name, is mostly devoted to NMM style painting and it's a great reference.

Would you mind sharing pictures of what you've done so far?

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2018/02/23 19:05:28


 
   
Made in us
Nurgle Chosen Marine on a Palanquin





An interesting article on NMM the old masters way: https://surfacefragments.blogspot.com/2012/10/how-old-masters-created-look-of-gold-in.html?showComment=1519324788024#c4433208166937050785
   
Made in us
Contagious Dreadnought of Nurgle






That's a pretty nice demonstration of color selection. The master 2d painters used a very limited amount of colors to render metals on canvas. In the article it shows gold examples with 4 brown values that start near black and progress ever so slightly into lighter values, then one color that is much closer to white for contrast. That contrast is the key to NMM. You could use the same type of color selection for any type of NMM; three or four very dark values, then one almost white contrast color. So if you wanted to do steel, you could simply use black and white and make several mixes that are each slightly lighter than the last, using white or a very light grey to create your contrast.

 
   
Made in us
Nurgle Chosen Marine on a Palanquin





 Luciferian wrote:
That's a pretty nice demonstration of color selection. The master 2d painters used a very limited amount of colors to render metals on canvas. In the article it shows gold examples with 4 brown values that start near black and progress ever so slightly into lighter values, then one color that is much closer to white for contrast. That contrast is the key to NMM. You could use the same type of color selection for any type of NMM; three or four very dark values, then one almost white contrast color. So if you wanted to do steel, you could simply use black and white and make several mixes that are each slightly lighter than the last, using white or a very light grey to create your contrast.


That was the most interesting concept for me: three to four dark colors and only ONE highlight color.

   
 
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