The runners start with a three square lead ahead of a hungry Gnasher Squig chomping at their heels. The turn order is established each turn with a D6 roll the highest scoring runners moving first. Each goblin moving forward or diagonal a number of squares equal to his D6 roll.

Once all Goblin runners have moved the squigs give chase rolling a D6 each and moving in the same way.

Squigs don't have to chase the goblin they were behind at the beginning. Any Squig that can catch a goblin with his D6 roll must do so. A caught Goblin gets chomped and is out of the race!

There are bonus X markers along the track. Goblins grabbing a bonus as they race along will be allowed to substitute their next D6 roll for a D8 roll.
Any X bonuses missed by the Goblins can be picked up and used by the Squigs!
The first Goblin over the finish line is the winner. Or the last to be caught by the squigs.

This is the Whakka-Squig arena. There are nine squigs in the centre ready to break D6 squares in every direction.

Once the squigs are scattered the Goblin whacker is dropped into the centre of the arena.

He has one D20 roll of movement points to go around and whack as many squigs as he can. Moves can be made to any adjacent square including diagonals.

Points per squig are awarded as indicated for each band on the arena from 1 to 4 with squigs in the outer bands being worth more than an easy to reach central squig.

Tot up the points and see who won. Between the initial squig scatter, the D20 roll, the number of squigs reached and their value there are a few ways to get lucky.

This original classic green sport sees the Night Goblin Fanatic take centre stage in a field of targets.

Rolling a series of 3 Scattering D8's the fanatic will bounce around the field collecting 2 points per snotling, 3 points per squig and 4 points per corner target.

A roll of a "hit" on the scatter dice allows the fanatic to move the D8 roll in the direction of his choice. However he must move the full distance in a straight line.

The fanatic who picks up the most points wins.

No great surprise that archery is on the list given the ubiquitousness of goblins with bows in every goblin collection . So what are the official GobOlympic rules?
The contenders line up and before them are arrayed in increasing levels of difficulty a selection of targets.

First in turn is the hungry squig. Assuming the very best efforts of each shooter will be made (in the interest of remaining unchomped) the goblins will require a D6 roll of 3+ to hit the squig running at them.

Anyone who misses gets chomped and is eliminated from this round.
Next up is the Snotling Shoot. A roll of 4+ will be required to hit these smaller targets.

Anyone who "can't even hit a snotling" will be mercilessly mocked and boo'd off.
The last challenge requires a 5+ roll to hit the target and pick up the full 3 points for the round.
The medal goes to the most points scored after 3 rounds with any ties going to sudden death where the goblins shot simultaneously at each other. Last goblin standing takes the victory.

The doom diver catapult is set some distance away from the target area.

The diving goblin rolls a D20 for his outward flight.

The flying goblin is moved forward this many squares and then scatters D8 squares.

The goblin is again placed accordingly but of course being a highly trained and skilled athlete he can now flap D6 squares in an attempt to land squarely on target.

1 point is awarded for landing within the Squig field, 3 points for the Snotling field and 5 points for the gold.

Each "athlete" will get three attempts and any points scored will count toward their total.

This is a game of speed and skill in the ancient goblin art of netting. The competitors take up their positions in the corners of the arena cage and five bats are released inside.

Each bat scatters D6 squares in turn and any bat landing within a goblins netting zone must make a roll for its initiative.

The goblin also rolls for his initiative trying to equal or beat the bat. If he succeeds the bat is removed from play and added to his count behind his corner.


Sometimes a bat's move will take it right through a netting zone and out the other side. If this happens the goblin can roll to try and snatch the bat but he'll need a 6 to grab it.

The game continues until all the bats are caught and the goblin who has bagged the most bats at the end of the game wins.
But what if the game ends without a clear winner? (Like in this test game where two goblins had two bats each and one goblin had one) Then we play a round called 'the Golden Snatch.'

This is a one on one battle over a single bat and the netting areas are bigger. The goblin who snatches the last bat wins.

The Steeplechase is run on a long circuit as big as you like with as many jumps as you have walls, fences, hedges or logs to furnish your course with.

Draw a start/finish line anywhere you like and line up your wolf riders.

The obligatory dice-off is required to decide the turn order.

To move you roll 3 D6. This tells you how many squares your wolf has run this turn. (The track is drawn on the same squared grid as all these have been) If you encounter a jump you must roll a D6 to see how well your wolf takes the jump.

In this example the wolf moves off the starting line rolling a total of 11 on his three D6. After moving forward 5 squares he encounters a jump and rolls a 5 (not a good jump!). Since he still has 6 movement points available he can clear the jump and finishes his move one square beyond it with his remaining point of movement.
If the jump roll exceeds the points remaining then the wolf has failed to jump and the players turn ends at the fence. He'll have more points to jump it next turn.

But of course being goblins out athletes aren't above a bit of foul play. Should you happen to be passing an opponent you can (indeed you are positively encouraged to) try to knock him off his wolf.
Players engaged in a little close quarters action roll off against each other with the attacker winning draws.

The losing goblin is laid out in the dust and misses a turn as the victor speeds away laughing.

Any player passing a prone goblin on the track can stick the boot in while he's down. In fact he is obliged to as a goblin sportsman.

Even though the unfortunate victim is in no position to defend himself he nonetheless presents a hazard to the attacker who must roll for the attack as usual. If he rolls a one he must stop there and may go no further this turn. (He got a little carried away stomping on the opposition)

The race lasts as many laps as you feel you have time for and the first Wolf Rider over the finish line is obviously the winner.

This classic test of knightly skill is played on a strip 19 squares long. (Why? Because that's the width of the distance between two wolf riders at either side of my board.)

The competitors both roll their first dice simultaneously, moving their wolf riding knight as many spaces as their roll.
They roll again and move closer.

And again.

And at the point the two pass it's crunch time. These last dice rolled will indicate the speed and power of each rider at the moment of impact.
Each player now rolls a D6 for the attack and the higher roll will win. Draws will be awarded to whichever goblin had the higher closing speed in the final movement roll.


If one goblin beats the other's roll by 2 or more the loser will be un-wolfed. (Knocked off his wolf)


Any goblin rolling a 1 for his attack has missed his target. In the event of both goblins rolling a 1 neither hits the other and no points are awarded. (And everyone boos!)

One point will be awarded for a successful strike and two points for knocking your opponent off.


The goblin with the most points after three clashes wins the round.

The proliferation of blades in a goblin army being what it is it was all too obvious that a spot of fencing would be on the cards.

Players take their places 8 squares apart in a piste 28 squares long. The end squares are marked to warn of the end of the playing area.
To begin they both roll their movement dice and move toward their opponent.

The player who rolls higher will move his full distance forward driving his opponent backward toward the end of the piste. A player who is pushed over the end square and steps off the end of the piste concedes a point.

When the movement phase is complete and the combatants are presumably face to face in adjacent squares (if they are not then roll and move again) then it is time to strike.

Each player rolls a D6 and consults the chart. A roll of a 5 or 6 will indicate a high or low attack. These can successfully be fended off by an opposing roll of a 3 or 4 defending high or low.
A roll of a 2 will cause your goblin to step back one square out of range of the strike.

A roll of a 1 is a fumble which might allow the opponent an opportunity to counterattack. If your opponent rolls a fumble and you rolled a 5 or 6 you obviously take the point. If you rolled a defensive 3 or 4 you have a chance to exploit the fumble by counterattacking with a successful roll of 4+ to take a point.

When a point is scored the play is reset with each goblin is placed back on the starting lines 8 squares apart to begin again.

If no point is scored, either due to a successfully defended strike or a couple of fumbles or a step back then it is time to roll movement again followed by another attack and so on until a point is scored or conceded by going off the piste.

The first goblin to score 5 points takes the victory.