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Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







Yeah, I think the layer lines are showing up quite a lot in those pics. Next learning point is to see how to reduce the layer lines

The image below shows the model render and it's pretty smooth.
[Thumb - Screenshot_20210319-180207_Samsung Internet.jpg]

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2021/03/19 18:06:51


Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in us
Courageous Questing Knight





Texas

I would probably angle him about 20 degrees back so it is minimal supports and make sure your supports are not going too far inside the model so just the fine tip is touching and comes off clean. The render is super cool and detailed, so you should be getting good results in the .02 to .03 layer range with AA set to 0 or off.

Also, do not set your layer exposure too high - just at the time to expose properly (might have to do a test) as I looked back at some of my first prints and I way over did the exposure and it mushed the details. When I put a properly exposed mini next to it, it is quite an improvement.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/03/23 13:48:39


My Novella Collection is available on Amazon - Action/Fantasy/Sci-Fi - https://www.amazon.com/Three-Roads-Dreamt-Michael-Leonard/dp/1505716993/

 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







Hmm. I had put it pretty horizontal to minimise supports to all the wacky protruberances. I might try one more time with your recommendation.

In other news, trees!









Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







Managed to finish the trees. That just leaves a bunch of other stuff I need to do to finish the Horizon Wars project... like painting the opfor and all the buildings ive printed for it. And then there is the Necromunda stuff...

So obviously the thing to do is to get distracted by other things!

I have. A preorder on for Stargrave and just picked up the New Modiphiusised version of 5 Parsecs from home. Conveniently I also just backed Gridwars for some nice generic sci-fi dudes, dudettes and beasties of mechanical and biological origin. Ooooohhh. I feel a raptor based crew coming on as well!

I am also running a 40 hour print of a 28mm scale Kodiak from Mass Effect Andromeda to act as a drop ship. I already have a Mako from a previous modelling project to work with, so at least I don’t have to print one of those, even if I do have to paint it still.

Dagnamit, why can’t I just win the lottery and retire to spend my whole time playing with toys!

Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in gb
Growlin' Guntrukk Driver with Killacannon





Scotland, but nowhere near my rulebook

Those trees have come out very well indeed.
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







Thanks Graphite. I’m really happy with them

So my new side project just came off the print bed. Looks great!

Allegedly the Kodiak is supposed to be able to carry 12 fully kitted out troopers in the mass effect universe, so I think it’s about the right size as a utility shuttle for a 6 person crew for 5Parsecs and Operation Last Train, and the 8 crew for Stargrave. Looks about the right size for that.









Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







While the primer dries on the shuttle, Red Force gets its "stripes"





Its a bit messy because of the way the stencil cant quite get into contact with the surface due to the details, but I'm not planning on tidying it up much. Tracks, guns and some spot colours, and they are almost ready to go.

Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







Haven’t update this for a while. No new printing, except for stencils. Been having fun with the Kodiak... and the stencils...






Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







As I was a pondering the inter web recently I came across MatStation as a vendor of STL comestibles.

And one of the nicest tributes to the spider tank from the original Ghost in the Shell anime I’ve ever seen.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=r-IsysrqUlU









Now I got all excited and immediately printed the presupposed files. Big mistake. Why do people think it’s a good idea to put supports on the visible surfaces?

Even with the tiny feathered supports it still wrecks the surface. Printing a slightly smaller resupported version now.

Currently adding some mechanical tentacles to the square thingies on the front and printing a bit smaller for use in Necromunda. Thinking I can put some Van Saar las weapons in the weapon pods to use as the brute spider rig thingy. Different form factor than the concept art of a guy in a suit, but it matches the spider theme and I loves it I does!


This message was edited 4 times. Last update was at 2021/04/12 10:33:00


Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in gb
Growlin' Guntrukk Driver with Killacannon





Scotland, but nowhere near my rulebook

Yeah, that's for the Van Saar, that is. Any pilot should be crouched in the main body as with a Tau suit.
   
Made in us
Courageous Questing Knight





Texas

 Flinty wrote:


Now I got all excited and immediately printed the presupposed files. Big mistake. Why do people think it’s a good idea to put supports on the visible surfaces?



I cannot seem to ever find anyone else's pre-supported files that are any good - either weirdly placed, huge, ill conceived, etc. I totally prefer to set my own supports and rarely have a failed print.

My Novella Collection is available on Amazon - Action/Fantasy/Sci-Fi - https://www.amazon.com/Three-Roads-Dreamt-Michael-Leonard/dp/1505716993/

 
   
Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut




UK

I came across MatStation the other week, though I was hooked on his xenomorph designs!

Some great stuff and I believe they are next on the list to be updated with yet more models after his human forces got a release with that big mech - which I agree is very cool looking spider-tank!
Heck I'm very tempted to buy the set just for the tank to print!



As for pre-supports I think it depends a lot on who does them. Atlas are steadily taking over alot of the patreons offering stls and Atlas generally provide very good supports with a focus on minimal detail loss whilst supporting the model.

There are certainly a few designers who need more support practice. I did re-do the supports on the xeno I printed from MatStation and even I still have to improve on a few things (lost a thumb....
That said he has thought about things, he actually designed the model with two holes drilled in with details lifted off so that they are printed separate and can be placed back on to hide the holes, which is something you don't often see from designers as generally you have to find a spot with no detail to cover over yourself when it comes to holes. Which on high detail models can sometimes mean either sacrificing detail or just not hollowing at all because there's no good spot to put a big enough hole - and small holes never drain properly - they dribble and drip and are more of a pain than a gain

A Blog in Miniature

3D Printing, hobbying and model fun! 
   
Made in us
Omnipotent Lord of Change





Albany, NY

 Overread wrote:
I came across MatStation the other week, though I was hooked on his xenomorph designs!
I immediately started making Tyranid Warrior-heavy lists as soon as I saw that MatStation xenos release I have his khanivore and have meant to print it forever, and I really dig his tentacled power armor sculpts. Mostly just figuring out a use for them, as it's still hard for me to just make stuff because it's cool

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/04/13 14:57:29


KOW BATREPS: BLOODFIRE
INSTAGRAM: @boss_salvage 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







Hah... I did get the set just for the tank

At £10 for the set I'm fine with that, and I may be able to recycle some of the infantry into something else.

I am currently having great fun remixing bits from elsewhere onto the tank to make it a proper arachnirig I guess it follows as I have the most fun in this hobby when tinkering different bits together for conversions.

My results should be sitting on the build plate just now, but I'll only be able to review how well it worked after work.

I will say that the holes and hollowing worked flawlessly on the presupported mech. I just don't understand putting supports on the visible top surface of legs for example, when the back side of the legs will never really be seen and therefore could be a bit messier.

I mean for the reprint, I just re-orientated the piece and hit "auto" on Lychee and got much better results.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
I also play a lot of world of tanks, so I was entertained to find out that he does digital models for that as well

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2021/04/13 15:13:33


Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in us
Decrepit Dakkanaut





Those are some really nice filament prints!
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







Bah... print failures. Snapped tentacles and support failures, and on the bulkiest parts as well, so burning resin a bit here. However I am Determined to succeed. I’ll resupport the thing at lunchtime and add a few more medium supports. Just need to get one good print of the modified rear
Hull. Everything else is golden. Well, translucent blue
At least...


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Argh... now the print bed grounds out. Need to re-level the thing I think, but continual cleaning of stuff to fix other stuff is annoying.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/04/14 17:46:52


Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







Right. Finally got everything printed ok. The underside is not quite perfect, but I’ll never see it, so I don’t care any more.

So the full set.



I cut slots in the top to take Magnets and then Magnetised some Gubbinz.



Arachnirigs have big arms, so I added little tentacles to the front of the head and big tentacles to the top.



I have 2 different heads as I’m not quite sure yet which to use. The base head has a pair of MGs in the front. I switched them out for van Saar weapons to represent twin linked heavy las carbines.

I also did a couple of turret types, las carbine and plasma gun to allow for the arachnirig weapon options





Still need to do a rad gun option.

In addition, I did a print bed of random stuffs.

Doggoes ready for Stargrave




Work bots






And a couple of random bounty Hunter types




This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/04/15 17:52:06


Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







Calling the Kodiak done

I was going to put some weathering around the place, but I tested something in an unobtrusive place and then did some leading edge weathering and I couldn’t quite get anything satisfying, so I’ll stop there. The side panel Destiny symbol is still a little bit damaged but I think I would cause more harm than good if I tried to fix it.

Van Saars for scaling purposes.

Spoiler:











Now to batter some varnish on there and stick it in the cabinet for possible future use in Stargrave, 5Parsecs and operation last train

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/04/19 21:54:16


Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







I got some great NPC bot models as part of the Cochin Kickstarter. I printed these a while back, but have just gotten around to basecoating them.






I’ve also been printing random sci fi models and bases from various places for the purposes of Stargrave. More on them a bit later as they are still being primed

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/04/30 18:35:37


Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut




UK

Flinty this reminds me have you see the Papsikels Patreon?

IT's the last day of the month ,but this might interest you. They've got some neat mecha stuff this month and next month is "Xenomorph" inspired

https://www.patreon.com/papsikels/posts

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2021/04/30 18:43:45


A Blog in Miniature

3D Printing, hobbying and model fun! 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







Thanks for the link Overread. I had seen them earlier in the month, but went through them again. I like some of the robot designs, but for some reason the bubblegum crisis stylings aren’t doing anything for me. The poses are all just a bit too passive I think, and the bolt-on extra leg things are a bit too drippy with weapons and super static looking. Also, given that I have still not printed any raptors with laser guns, I don’t need another big set of stuff (yet).

Onward with the priming.

Some generic dudes and dudettes with pistols and carbines. The guy in the cape is a bounty Hunter from the Cochin Kickstarter, while the rest are from the Gridwars set that finished recently.




A hacker and a corporate samurai that may well end up being my Jedi-esque XO. The sword blade warped a bit on curing, so I might need to replace with a more lightsaber style rod.



A random fantasy gnoll or kobold or something that caught my eye on Thingiverse. Originally had 2 knives, but I swapped one out for a Van Saar pistol. I really like this little thing for some reason




And a rather nice rendition of Tali al Zorah from Mass effect. I need to sort a weapon that matches her rather diminutive scale. Even the smallest van Saar pistol I have available is too big. Need to raid my bits box as I think I have some smaller metal weapons from Hasslefree kicking about still.





This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/04/30 23:16:51


Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







The best thing about 3D printing is the ability to print stuff that would not ordinarily be available... or strictly necessary!

Just printed off a neat wee project box to see if I can do painting in the car while the kids are at classes of various types. Yes, an empty ice cream tub could also have been deployed...



Also, some progress on my Necromunda and Stargrave duders

The Archeotek known only as Ice Queen





Stargrave robot trooper of some kind



Codebreaker



And a cute wee Space Kobold as a runner



Oh yes, and the doggoes!


Wuff!



I have another 4 build plates coded up with goodies for Stargrave (mixture of beasts, troopers, drones and space dinosaurs) but I want to finish some more of the last batch before creating more stuff to add to the painting pile!

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/05/25 22:29:40


Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in us
Omnipotent Lord of Change





Albany, NY

I 100% am looking to mine my Heretic and Cyber Forge files for StarGrave Good stuff across the board, tho the pups and Codebreaker prawn take it for me.


KOW BATREPS: BLOODFIRE
INSTAGRAM: @boss_salvage 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







Aaargh. Printed 6 models. Exactly the same but varying exposure and layer height

50 microns 2.5s exposure
30 microns 1.6s exposure
30 microns 1.6s 2xAA
20 microns 1.2s 2xAA
10 microns 1.6s exposure
10 microns 1.2s exposure

THEY ALL LOOK EXACTLY THE SAME! Click on images below to get larger zoom able versions.

50 microns


20 Micron 2xAA


10 micron


What to try next?


Automatically Appended Next Post:
In retrospect, the ridges I can see I think are from the xy plane from the LCD resolution. However I can see no discernible difference in the two models with AA applied. Not sure how much of an effect I should see because of AA, but I was expecting something a Bit more obvious.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2021/06/15 19:47:42


Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in es
Inspiring SDF-1 Bridge Officer






If you can, try and run this test:

https://mega.nz/file/ZBxAXJjK#PJCPDXaxDLOzN9nIhiKVsoHvKZEGMCHmCM_BXS-sJ90

It's pretty quick, so you can run a bunch in a short period of time.

For starters, try 50 microns at 2.5s, 2.2s and 2s, and see what are the results (don't use AA on these, ever), and repeat it for 20 microns starting at whatever value you know works, and then lower it bit by bit. From there we'll be able to see if you're over exposing or if it's something else, I think.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/06/15 20:07:41


 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







Thanks Albertorius. I’ll go check it out.

I have also done a Bit of googling. It looks like the Mono AA feature isn’t actually enabled. An upcoming firmware upgrade may be addressing it though.

Dag nammit!


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Do you print it flat on the build plate?


Automatically Appended Next Post:
More updateage. Seems like the 1.7 firmware update is now official as you can get it off the anycubic website, but only if you go to the sales page for the Mono. I didn’t see it on the Support part of the website, but I might have missed it. Currently flashing the firmware and I’ll run a 2x and 4x on the 30 micron model tonight and tomorrow and report back

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2021/06/15 22:05:16


Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in es
Inspiring SDF-1 Bridge Officer






 Flinty wrote:
Do you print it flat on the build plate?


Yup, flat on the plate, no need for supports.
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







Hmm… the models sliced using Lychee and with 2x and 4x AA applied don’t seem to be substantially different to the non AA model I printed earlier in the week. I think I’ll give it one more shot using the latest version of Photon Workshop to slice the model. I’ll also try dialling in my settings a bit more using Albertorious’ thingy. To the slicer!

Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







Right… test tabs for Elegoo water washable ceramic grey. Just recording it all really. Hopefully it will be useful to others as well.

All sliced at 30 microns. All running with 1s light off time, except the marked one. Varying exposure times.

1.2s per layer. Looks a bit underexposed as the edges are a bit gloopy


1.3s per layer. The centre bit seems to match Albertorius’s explanation of crispness and the arrows just Meeting each other, but the comb bits at the bottom seem a bit wibbley.



1.4s. The comb bit looks a bit better than 1.3s, but the central arrows are less well defined


1.6s is pretty gloopy which would suggest a bit overexposed



And then 1.6s with 5s light off time.
Looks a lot crisper.



Ok, so findings would suggest that 1.3s exposure time with a longer light off will give best results. To the experimentmobile! Slivers at the ready!




Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in es
Inspiring SDF-1 Bridge Officer






Yeah, the 1.3 mark seems the best from here, certainly, but as you saw the light off delay impacts directly on the end quality, IME.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/06/17 18:43:48


 
   
 
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